60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

Hello good people

I recently purchased a older crestliner with a 1970 60 hp evinrude 600073b


The motor looked liked it had some work done new gas lines maybe new gaskets the wire harness was shortened and wires replaced has a motorola amplifier and the clipper is removed. looks like a new rectifier the wires are brightly coloured.
It also has a new starter.
Compression seems good.

hooked it up in the driveway with the hose.

First time I tried to fire it up the starter cranked but did not seem to have any spark. Then i noticed it was not in neutral (this may just be a coincidence that it started) . Tried again and it instantly started and ran great for a few minutes, no miss fires seemed really solid then I gave it some throttle and it died. I didn't choke or stall sounded like a kill switch electronically stopped.

Let it sit and tried again it started up great ran long enough to adjust the carbs, this time i was able to rev it up and back down to idle a few times, seem to run great. I let it run for about 5 min and i died again. this time I checked for spark and nothing.

Tried again the next day same thing seem to be randomly crapping out electronically.

I have little experience with outboard and motors, what I now so far a have learned from forums.

I am suspecting the coil and or amplifier is the problem. I also have read to pull the flywheel off inspect and set point and clean stator.

Before I continue with this I would like request some guidance on how to diagnose the problem. With some baby step instructions



What setting to use on basic multimeter (thats all i Have right now)

I don't have the manual yet but I may purchase it if needed.

Here is a link to the distributor group so I can follow along, and id the wires and parts to test.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/32305.cfm

How to remove the flywheel inspect and set the points.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

bump

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

Couple of things, you have an electric shift lower unit, it defalts to forward until the engine starts and builds pressure in the lower unit, usually after 1 or 2 seconds.
Your ign system has several componets, some under the flywheel and some external.
If you are going to maintain your own engine I would suggest that you get the OEM manual for your engine. It will have a troubleshooting section and help you do repairs on your engine

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

When it dies, check for spark going to the distributor from the coil. If you have spark there, then the problem is not the distributor. Then you'll be into troubleshooting the amplifier/stator/breaker assembly.

Here's basically what you'll have to do. This is not an easy ignition system.....a manual is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED here....

Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.
Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ?". When you crank the engine over, if it fires while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not fire through the spark plug wires - there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.

Check voltage present on the purple wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9? volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.

Check DVA voltage on the blue wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking.

Disconnect the white/black points wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. The unit should fire each time. If it does, this means the CD module is usually good and the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points plate need to be checked.

Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16". Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If another spark plug wire fires, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM allowable reading is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. Maintenance free batteries are NOT recommended for this application.

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

Last night I decided to fully charge the battery and this morning I fired it up so it could die and I could begin to diagnose the problem.

But I didn't die it ran and ran starts stops throttles up and down.

I let it sit and restarted many times can't seem to duplicate the problem.

The battery was a new cheaper 600 cranking amp marine starting battery turned the starter over strong so I didnt think anything of it.

If that was the problem how do i know if the battery is being charged when running. Volt meter does not show any signs of voltage increase when running except it slowly climbs back up to 12.80 12.90 from 12.40 sag from cranking.

Do you think that charging the battery solved my problem or will die on lake and ruin my day?

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

Here is a video link of it running hows it sound.

let me know what you think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meKwmVT1SNo

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

bump (impatience is gonna kill me one day)

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

That ignition system needs to have a fully charged battery to operate properly.
At 12.9 volts, it does not seem like it is charging properly. Plus the electric shifter will be drawing it down also.

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

tx1961whaler said:

That ignition system needs to have a fully charged battery to operate properly.
At 12.9 volts, it does not seem like it is charging properly. Plus the electric shifter will be drawing it down also.

Click to expand...

Ok this is not all bad so I have not tested it at higher sustained rpms because its on the hose.

could it be possible that it needs to be running at 4500 to 5500 operating range to charge the battery.

If not what do I need to test in order verify the charging system

here is the wiring diagram

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

mu said:

Ok this is not all bad so I have not tested it at higher sustained rpms because its on the hose.

could it be possible that it needs to be running at 4500 to 5500 operating range to charge the battery.

If not what do I need to test in order verify the charging system

here is the wiring diagram

Click to expand...

No, it does not need to be running full out for it to charge.

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

ok thanks

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

I did the rectifier test in the faq and it tests bad.
I will order a new one and try again.

I have another concern I followed the procedures in the faq for adjusting the carb on a three cylinder.

The top carb does absolutely nothing when its adjusted and the slot in the needle has a different alignment from the bottom two carbs when closed all the way. I would like to rebuild the carbs but i'm a total noob.

Whats the best kit to buy for my motor and how much work is involved maybe a tutorial link would help me out.

I have a condensed service manual for this motor with a blow out of the carb

Thanks

Re: 60 hp Evinrude Electronic Diagnostics

Replaced the rectifier today and charing system is working good. 13.5 volts at idle and slowly climbs. At 3500 rpms its at 14.7 volts.

Seems to cold start better doesn't take as long to idle down.

When I installed the prop today I noticed it does jet foward for a second before switching to neutral .


Blocking Diode, Diode assemble, lower end problem or is that just the way it works?