Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

All,

I started my '85 Ev 140 VRO for the first time in 3 years. It turned over, but then I shut it down to learn more about what to look for to make sure the water pump is working.

I ran it for about 20 seconds. Water peed out of three holes in the back of the lower case, 2 under the anti-cavitation lip and one just above the lip. See photos.

Is that an indicator that dangling there that should be plugged into the hole above the lip?

I did not see water come out of the exhaust. Is that possible because the engine was not running long enough?

Is it normal for the water to come out of the pee holes immediately, but for there to be a delay before it starts coming out of the exhaust? If so, how long should it take for the water to come out of the exhaust. Does this indicate the thermostat has opened to allow water to start circulating around the engine?

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Oops...here are the images. Are the two holes in image 2279 the pee holes?

Does the dangling object in 2280 need to be inserted in the hole there? What does it do?

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

The dangling thing is your speedo pick up tube. Just put it back in with a "light" tap. Make sure you have good water muffs and start it up on them. These old loopers took a little time for water to "****" when first started.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Boobie, thanks

Can you answer my questions about when to expect water to come from the engine if water pump and thermostat are both working.

Seems to me that the pee holes should start streaming immediately on starting, then water should start coming out of exhaust after engine warms up a bit and thermostats open???

I just want to be sure.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

There should be a small nipple on the starboard side of the lower engine cowling. That is the telltale the indicates water flowing to the powerhead. The ones down below, the one's in your pics, aren't the one you are looking for.

Water should start coming out the tell tale in about 10 to 15 seconds or less.

I will try to put up a couple of pics of the one on my '87 110 horse.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Check this link out. 1985 Johnson 140 HP

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309188

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Thanks itsaboatime,

I looked at the engine and read the manual and now see the tell-tale. They call it a "Water Pump Indicator".

Does water fill the section of the engine between the engine compartment and the lower case? I think the other holes in the photo are there to drain water from that section because the water continued to pee out of those holes AFTER I shut the engine down. I could see how the pressure from my garden hose probably filled that area up - and that had nothing to do with the water pump.

I do not remember seeing water coming out of the tell-tale. I ran the engine for about 20 seconds. So, seems either the tell-tale is plugged or the water pump is not working.

I am going to start it again tomorrow afternoon and see what happens. Should the water pump start immediately, and the tell-tale start pissing immediately?

After the engine warms up I assume the thermostats release and then....will I see water coming from the exhaust ports??? Sorry about being bit clueless. I last boated 25 years ago and have just plum forgotten!

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Awesome kennyfam! Thanks.

Could you direct me to links to all your posts on the project so I can see your photos and read your documentation?

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

hbron said:

Awesome kennyfam! Thanks.

Could you direct me to links to all your posts on the project so I can see your photos and read your documentation?

Click to expand...

All the photos and documentation are in that thread. Scroll down for them all.
Let me know if you are having trouble.
I can hear the air being pushed out at start up now for a few seconds till the water gets there.

Here's a link to a short lived impeller

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=400771

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

The link Kenmyfam posted is excellent in description on how the cooling system works.

The water pump is driven by the driveshaft which is connected to the crank in the powerhead. It begins pumping as soon as you hit the starter. The tell tale should have water in 10 to 15 seconds or less.

Before you start the motor tomorrow, take the upper cover off and go around to the back of the motor. On the starboard side, right side as you face the motor from the rear, you will see a small hose leading to the tell tale. The other end of that hose is connected to a plastic elbow in the exhaust cover. Carefully pull the hose off the elbow and blow into it. If it isn't clogged, air should pass through. If its clogged clean it out with weed-eater string. Next unscrew the elbow and blow through it, if its clogged clean it too.

My advice to you is to drop the lower unit and physically check your water pump. I am going to post a link here that will help you with testing your pump and cooling passages. I would and did both these tests on my 110 horse.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAJfBKNs7bo&feature=PlayList&p=A26512D46A2E1072&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=6

Now, I don't know anybody with a drill big enough to chuck up the driveshaft for an evinrude 150. What I did is take a piece of 3/4 inch heater hose and hose clamp one end onto the driveshaft. I then hose clamped the head of a half inch bolt into the other end. My 3/8 drill would then chuck up to the bolt and I could test my water pump.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Awesome gents! Many thanks!

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Whatever you do, do not, repeat *DO NOT* under any circumstances use any kind of tool at all on the drive shaft splines. (Except the "special tool" made by BRP specifically to fit the splines). Not even a drill with some kind of hose to protect it. That drive shaft is a very expensive precision machined part. And a gearcase rebuild is a major repair.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

jtexas said:

Whatever you do, do not, repeat *DO NOT* under any circumstances use any kind of tool at all on the drive shaft splines. (Except the "special tool" made by BRP specifically to fit the splines). Not even a drill with some kind of hose to protect it. That drive shaft is a very expensive precision machined part.

And a gearcase rebuild is a major repair.

Click to expand...

The tool never contacts the driveshaft. One end of the hose goes over the driveshaft and is hose clamped in place. the other end of the hose has a bolt hose clamped into it and that is chucked up into a drill. The hose acts as a link between the drill and the driveshaft. No metal contacts the driveshaft to damage it.

I have been doing this for years and was taught by an OMC mechanic.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

"I have been doing this for years ..."
Good, you got away with it. my parents drove for years without seat belts and were never killed, not even once.

It's irresponsible advice to people who don't understand the risks.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

jtexas said:

"I have been doing this for years ..."
Good, you got away with it. my parents drove for years without seat belts and were never killed, not even once.

It's irresponsible advice to people who don't understand the risks.

Click to expand...

Dude, your trying to start a pissing match.

This is common practice to test the output of the waterpump.

Once the output of the pump is established, you can move up the cooling system troubleshooting the problem. Generally the problem is the waterpump. This test will either prove or not wheather there is flow, without having to tear it apart, and, if the pump looks good a possible error made upon reassembly. Why take it apart if you don't have to??

You are advising the op to take it apart, not knowing if he has the slightest idea(no offense) on how the damn thing goes back together.
Talk about "It's irresponsible advice to people who don't understand the risks."

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

don't worry about "tearing up the water pump". it's a routine procedure, we've all the done it over and over. Once the L/U is off to "test" the water pump, it just doesn't make sense to reattach it without, at a minimum, a new impeller. And a visual inspection of the housing.

I know it can seem intimidating at first, but don't worry, you can do it. The water pump really is very, very easy. Trust me.

don't reinstall an impeller that's more than 2 years old -- sure some of 'em last longer, but why take the risk on toasting your powerhead? Why risk thousands of dollars just to save $50?

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

jtexas said:

don't reinstall an impeller that's more than 2 years old -- sure some of 'em last longer, but why take the risk on toasting your powerhead? Why risk thousands of dollars just to save $50?

Click to expand...

Completely agree. Cheap insurance to change the impeller and check the rest of the pump assembly.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

jtexas said:

don't worry about "tearing up the water pump". it's a routine procedure, we've all the done it over and over. Once the L/U is off to "test" the water pump, it just doesn't make sense to reattach it without, at a minimum, a new impeller. And a visual inspection of the housing.

I know it can seem intimidating at first, but don't worry, you can do it. The water pump really is very, very easy. Much easier than chucking your motor to a drill, trust me.

don't reinstall an impeller that's more than 2 years old -- sure some of 'em last longer, but why take the risk on toasting your powerhead? Why risk thousands of dollars just to save $50?

Click to expand...

Whatever man.................

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

Ok, how bout I just state my case, without a "pissing match"? (no pun intended)

How will I know whether it's pumping enough water with the drill? Just because there's water coming out there, doesn't mean it's going to generate *enough* water pressure to cool the engine.

The OMC mechanic who taught you that technique, bet he had years of experience, with hundreds of impellers, and knew its condition right away.

But what if I incorrectly conclude the impeller doesn't need replacing? I'll burn up my engine, due to my own lack of experience.

When $50 and 10 minutes was all I needed. I mean, it's four bolts off, four bolts on, and it's done.

Your testing method might come in handy if I'm not getting a pee stream from a new impeller.

Re: Water Pump Working? What to Expect?

This is what I see as prudent; especially given the size of the engine suggests testing the rebuilt WP after re-attaching L/U.

1) Drain the L/U lube - look for water or metal.
Here forward, assumes lube is clean - no water, no metal.
2) Remove L/U.
3) Dis-assemble WP.
4) Rebuild WP. Clean the housing & check for scoring. Replace the following:
? Impeller
? Impeller drive key
? Gaskets (2 ? one on each side of plate)
? base pressure plate,
? the metal housing liner - if scored

5) Re-attach L/U, applying 3M #847 adhesive to joint between L/U and exhaust housing. Bolt her down.
6) Refill L/U lube.

Test WP by running it and observing tell-tale. I will also be installing a Water Pressure gauge.

One of you mentioned the manual calls for 3m #847 adhesive on the joint between the exhaust housing and lower unit (or permatex #2). Is the exhaust housing the midsection of the engine (sorry for being a neophyte)? If so, what you are saying is to use this adhesive when I re-attach the L/U to it and to apply the adhesive all along that joint?

I must say I am anxious about getting everything tucked back up there right when I re-assemble. It sounds like my biggest issue to keep in check is to avoid turning the shift shaft. Can I assume the drive shaft will slide right back into position? Should I mark the shift shaft to make sure it doesn?t move? Does it move freely or does it take some force to turn it?