I've been working on this engine off-and-on for a few years now and it just won't give me 100%. Seems to work great on the high end but just does not want to run at low rpm.
Here are my current standings
Just rebuilt both carbs, even added new orifices (all eight). Carbs looked great when I tore them down as they were just re-built last year by a mechanic but I wanted to make sure everything was done 100% right, this time.
This weekend I took her out and she ran good at WOT but would not idle. Performed the Seafoam routine as described here at iBoats and brought the boat home. Pulled the plugs and they looked pretty good. It is recommended here to replace them after the Seafoam ritual. Is this a necessity? they sure looked good!
Checked compression again, I don't have the numbers here in front of me right now but if memory serves, the readings were something like 142, 155, 150, and 157. These values were comparable to the last time I took them about a year ago when all readings were exactly 4-5psi higher in each cylinder. But the engine was not at operating temp this time.
Decided to check the ignition side again.
Two years ago, I went through the ignition side and found reasonable results but did replace all four coils. This time spark was good in all four cylinders with a good spark across 1/2" gap (tested 7/16" as well but went up to 1/2" to compensate for junk spark tester accuracy).
Did not check the timing yet but all was okay last year and nothing has been changed. I did note last year that in order to set the timing, My timing stop adjustment is 100% in and I could just barely get the timing set to spec.
Sensor Coil resistances were 9.2 and 8.9 ohms at 90F
Charge Coil was 630 ohms
I am not sure if I need to go further and check voltages but if so, I lost the procedure to use my DVA to check voltages. I could use some advice on that if anyone has the proper steps.
I am worried that whatever is wrong is now going to be something really expensive and not worth fixing. Timing coil, charge coil, leafs, worse!
My 1973, 16' fiberglass, trihull, Bassboat will go 40mph, moderately loaded, with a WOT of 5250rpm. Just can't handle the 'No Wake" zone! Trailering is a real trick since it won't idle. I would really love to fix this as my clutch dog will probably be the next thing to go if I don't.
On a side note, a boat mechanic saw me at the dock struggling with the engine and came over to give his advice. He went through all the usual dockside tests, looking for the obvious and found nothing. Sorry this got so long
Thanks,
Randy
Here are my current standings
Just rebuilt both carbs, even added new orifices (all eight). Carbs looked great when I tore them down as they were just re-built last year by a mechanic but I wanted to make sure everything was done 100% right, this time.
This weekend I took her out and she ran good at WOT but would not idle. Performed the Seafoam routine as described here at iBoats and brought the boat home. Pulled the plugs and they looked pretty good. It is recommended here to replace them after the Seafoam ritual. Is this a necessity? they sure looked good!
Checked compression again, I don't have the numbers here in front of me right now but if memory serves, the readings were something like 142, 155, 150, and 157. These values were comparable to the last time I took them about a year ago when all readings were exactly 4-5psi higher in each cylinder. But the engine was not at operating temp this time.
Decided to check the ignition side again.
Two years ago, I went through the ignition side and found reasonable results but did replace all four coils. This time spark was good in all four cylinders with a good spark across 1/2" gap (tested 7/16" as well but went up to 1/2" to compensate for junk spark tester accuracy).
Did not check the timing yet but all was okay last year and nothing has been changed. I did note last year that in order to set the timing, My timing stop adjustment is 100% in and I could just barely get the timing set to spec.
Sensor Coil resistances were 9.2 and 8.9 ohms at 90F
Charge Coil was 630 ohms
I am not sure if I need to go further and check voltages but if so, I lost the procedure to use my DVA to check voltages. I could use some advice on that if anyone has the proper steps.
I am worried that whatever is wrong is now going to be something really expensive and not worth fixing. Timing coil, charge coil, leafs, worse!
My 1973, 16' fiberglass, trihull, Bassboat will go 40mph, moderately loaded, with a WOT of 5250rpm. Just can't handle the 'No Wake" zone! Trailering is a real trick since it won't idle. I would really love to fix this as my clutch dog will probably be the next thing to go if I don't.
On a side note, a boat mechanic saw me at the dock struggling with the engine and came over to give his advice. He went through all the usual dockside tests, looking for the obvious and found nothing. Sorry this got so long
Thanks,
Randy