Hello. First time here...and also, my first boat and motor. I have a Repair...or buy new? Evinrude '69 25 HP, Model 25902d. It is on a 14' Lonestar Jon boat.
I bought this boat a few weeks ago and finally got the title cleared to be able to take it out yesterday. Forgot to get it running onland first...so I am out on the water trying to get it started. Two big blisters and a broken starter pull cord, I have to trolley back in. I just couldn't get it started. When I bought the motor, the guy did get is started for me with a little pulling, but it was running. And he showed me a couple of quirks to help get it running, but I don't remember what he said and I can't get in touch with him any more (won't return calls or dead cell, who knows). So, I don't know if I couldn't get it started because I don't know the controls, or I was out on the water, or what.
So, I have a motor that is pretty hard to start, I don't know anything about it, and at best is going to be a pain in the rear. The question is if I cut my losses right now and go ahead and buy a new motor and forget trying to mess with this 40 year old nightmare? A local boat dealer has a clearance on a Suzuki 15hp Elk with electric start for $2k...which seems like a pretty good deal...except for the $2k.
I mainly plan to run around the area looking for photographic spots and wildlife, so I need to be able to move around. I don't know a ton about motors, but I do know a little. Like, I got the case off, and got the top off of the crank case, and rewound the rope...but couldn't figure out how to rewind the spring.
I am trying to locate a manual here locally, but it looks like i have exhausted my resources and will have to order one on the net. Or are there any links to diagrams and/or instructions people have posted on the net?
So, should I try to get this old motor running? Or start fresh? I did just pay for a title on the old motor ($25), and it is a 25hp...so should be better than the 15 if I could get it running. A local boat mechanic works on old motors wants $65 to check it out, see if it has good compression...plus replace the starter coil, etc.
I'd go to harbor freight and buy a compression tester for less then 20 bucks, and check the compression yourself.
If it were my motor, I'd fix it, that 2 grand you could spend on a new motor will buy a lot of nice things for your boating experience, I'd suggest you fix the 25 horse, and save your money
Go to ebay and type in "1969 Evinrude" there's service manuals and parts manuals for it listed at pretty cheap prices (under 20 bucks) a parts manual is a must. with out it, you will be lost, and not know what parts you need, so at the least, get a parts manual, there cheap for your motor
If your mechanically inclined, they are simple motors to work on, no special tools required, and when your done fixing it, you'll know exactly what you have, and if you run into any trouble while working on it, there's plenty of people here that will bail you out and help you through it.
So it would be my suggestion to fix what you have.
Really, it depends on what you like to do. If you would rather be searching for wildlife and photography than working on old motors, and have the $2K, you would be better off with a new one and sell the old one to somebody that would appreciate it. Believe it or not, some people actually do enjoy that kind of stuff.
That '69 'Rude 25 is one of the great outboards of all time, Drew.
If the compression is good, over about 60psi and matching within 15%, it is well worth fixing. Once in good order she is as good a 2 stroke outboard as any 25 made today for kilobux.
I'll order a manual, but would like to get at least this problem repaired.
There seems to be a lot of information, so maybe I can make this work.
But, FR, you are correct, i would rather be out shooting.
JB, I am sure my dad has a compression checker (generic for spark plug, right?). Since there is no battery hooked up to the engine, will simply unplugging the other spark plug be enough?
JB, I am sure my dad has a compression checker (generic for spark plug, right?). Since there is no battery hooked up to the engine, will simply unplugging the other spark plug be enough?
Drew
Drew, just to help you out with the esoteric lingo, that's a "recoil starter" not a starter coil.
Also, I'm not sure about what you mean in your quote above, so I thought I'd ask:
1. You don't have it hooked up to a battery? Does that mean it does have electric start and you just don't have it hooked up? If you do have e-start, that's neat and would make it even more of a "keeper" motor to me, although I'd love to have a '69 25hp motor myself! It's one of the lightest, easiest-to-work-on 25hp's there is.
2. I'm not sure what you mean by the compression tester? A compression tester does screw into the spark plug hole. The other spark plug should be out as well, then pull the recoil pull starter powerfully (being careful not to pull it so far that you hit the end of the rope) until the gauge stops going higher and take the highest reading. Then screw the comp. tester into the other plug hole and do the same thing.
I'd expect to get around 115psi or higher on each cylinder if it's in good shape, and personally, if it weren't over 100psi and within 10%, I wouldn't try to fix it, although it would probably run "decent" down to about 90psi. But then again, compression testers are notoriously for being inaccurate, and JB has a lot more experience than I do, so take my post with a grain of salt. My '57 18hp johnson and '58 18 evinrude both have over 115psi on each cylinder and run great. My '99 30hp (same block as a 25hp) has 125psi on each cylinder. I suspect if your motor is in good shape, your compression will fall in between there if your compression gauge is accurate. That motor needs the ignition checked, and the carburetor cleaned and fuel lines changed, along with a new water pump impeller and lower unit oil check. Get those 4 things right (it's not nearly as hard as you think on that motor) and it will start very, very easily and you'll love it.
Here's a handy set of threads to look at if you decide to fix it yourself:
I too use my boat primarily for wildlife/scenic photography. My boat is old and ugly, but it is a stable platform (trihull) that allows me to move around with a DSLR up to my face, without falling on my keister every two seconds. My motor is a 1972 Johnson 65hp, that I originally paid $400 for.
Don't let the old gear scare you - in many cases (including yours) the items involved are of simple, easily repairable design. As stated by someone else, you can buy an OEM service manual on EBay for very little money. You can probably get one here at iboats, as well. You may or may not wish to buy a parts manual. I have a couple, but tend to use the listings at www.shop.evinrude.com for the most part. They go back to 1968, so you'll have what you need for your motor there.
Another factor regarding your motor, is that you really don't need to take it to an authorized OMC/BRP dealer, if you don't want to do the work yourself. There are lots of semi-retired guys around, who were career OMC mechs and can get yours in tip top shape for much less than a dealer would. The key to it all is to make sure that you have a viable "platform" to work with. That $65 "looksee" might be a pretty good investment, but make the mech look at the whole motor, not just the compression values.
Thanks for taking the time to write such a nice reply...and the link.
It has some wires loose on the inside...now sure what for. It currently isn't an electric start...but maybe that is what the leads are for. I will try to post a picture later if you can take a look and see what you think.
I too use my boat primarily for wildlife/scenic photography. My boat is old and ugly, but it is a stable platform (trihull) that allows me to move around with a DSLR up to my face, without falling on my keister every two seconds.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your picture is exactly what I am after...I think there are some great shots to be had that you can't get from the side of the road.
Since I didn't think about the stability of the boat before I started this interesting adventure, is there anything I can to stabilize the boat once I am out on the water shooting? I definitely see a problem problem trying to maneuver around the boat...as it is rockier than I thought it would be.
I think that I can provide you with quite a bit of info on shooting from a boat, but just to keep this thread on topic, let me suggest that you open a new thread in "Boat Topics & Questions." I'll look for it and we can go from there.
BTW, that photo was taken at the end of an oilfield canal, about five miles from the nearest road, so you're right - there are some photos that you just have to get out in the "boonies" to shoot.
Repair...or buy new? Evinrude '69 25 HP
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