I have 4 hours on new boat and outboard. Took it out couple of weeks ago for that period and following the Mercury break in procedure. Gonna get the other 6 hours break in on it this weekend. It's 16 foot Tracker Pro 16 bass boat with a 30 HP EFI.
When I'm running at 1/2, 3/4, and for the short times at full throttle, I have to really stretch to see over the bow. I even had to put my PFD throw cushion on the seat to see over it.
I'm still getting used to the trim feature and all that. This is the first boat I've had with a power trim. And how will I know when I am on plane correctly? BTW, this model doesn't have a tach on the console, so I'm learning by feel.
Also, I'm a big ol' good ol' Texas boy. Probably field dress out out at around 275. So with me and a passenger at mid vessel, the batteries, gas tank, and outboard at the stern, that don't leave much weight at the bow.
Is this something I should be concerned about, or will it take care of itself once I learn to trim her in or out? I don'tike the feeling of not being able to see over that bow very well. Kinda like the little old blue haired ladies looking over the dash in them big Buicks and Caddies they all drive here in west Texas......
First of all, you should be trimmed all the way down (or in) in order to get on plane. Once on plane, you can trim it out (or up) until you start to lose speed, then bump it back down (or in), and that should be your perfect trim setting.
Secondly, I think it would be OK to goose the throttle a little bit closer to wide open in order to get it up on plane during the break-in period. I think running it NOT on plane is harder on that new engine than a few high revs for a few seconds.
Finally, you might need to rearrange your gear to shift the boat's center of gravity to help get on plane. Addtionally, you might look into Smart Tabs or controllable trim tabs to help with lifting the stern. Or, you might try a cheapo "whale tail" thingy that botls onto the lower unit.
We are big in Texas aren't we? But we bring a wealth of Chesapeake Bay and Mid Atlantic boating experience to these parts. Are you "commanding" your boat from a tiller or remote? You won't get a lot of performance from your new boat, but it should do alright if you don;t overload it and balance the load out, trim it right...keep everything to a minimum, including expectations. In fact, it's going to be pretty much a fight to make it perform like you want it to. By all means, stay away from the trim tabs and whale tails. Generally only the uninformed will resort to that kind of stuff unless you're an offshore racer or tabbing the list of a large cruiser. In most all cases they are a band aid and something else will be sure to suffer. I just don't think you'll ever be happy with the power you have and that will taint your boating experience for the worse.
What do you want to use your boat for and what do you expect one to do for you? If you can, I'd haul it back right now and put a 50 on it, or whatever the max hp it will hold. NEVER under power unless you just wanna putzz and piddle. Texans don't putzz and piddle, now, do they? Don;t let 'em hoodwink you into telling you it's used either. They set you up for problems it looks like and should have known better. Yea, you're going to get blue-haired yourself in short order if you continue riding in that boat like it is.
Captain Chris
SternMate..we are easily found on the web.
Your comments regarding the "uninformed" are classic. I've been listening to these for more than ten years, and each year I disagree more. Although I am not a proponent of hydrofoils, they at least do one thing and that is add lift to the stern.
Your comment about adding HP to cure the problem is also classic (nice word for "old"). If you start off with 30 HP and move to a 50 HP motor you do not get the extra 20 HP you are looking for at the point where you need it. The extra 20 HP is only developed at about 5500 RPMs and he needs the HP when trying to get on plane at 2500 RPMs. At 2500 RPMs he is only going to get about 8 HP extra, and the motor will be heavier which increases the unbalanced problem. Net gain will not be much, except for the dealer who pockets another $1500. or more for the larger engine.
You are ignoring the benefits of making the hull more efficient. If you were building a race car for the Indy 500, you would want a competetive engine of lets say 800 HP. Would you put that in a Indy care chassis or a Greyhound Buss?
Trim tabs make the hull more efficient by changing the configuration to suite the conditions of speed, water, wind, and weight balance.
He may not be running with the off shore racers just because he puts a set of $100.00 trim tabs on the boat, but his hull/boat will perform much better, and if he does get a 50 HP motor, the tabs will help him get even more performance.
I think you do not understand what trim tabs can do and how much hull configuration has to do with boat performance.
New boat, planing questions, etc
Re: New boat, planing questions, etc
Linear Mode
