Sinc & link - 1986 Evinrude 90hp V4 crossflow

After replacing the powerhead to adapter gasket and all fuel, oil and recirculation hoses, motor idled better than last year even w/o a link and sinc. But had a leak- removed top carb and fixed a spit end on one of the new recirculation hoses. Reinstalled carb but no longer idles nicely. Never done a link and sink before and have a few questions.

I?ll have to skip the max spark advance and cam follower pickup timing procedures, since after two years of searching I still haven?t found the test wheel (386246).

Both the OMC and Seloc manuals are nearly identical on how to do this. I did the throttle valve sinc- loosened both the throttle cam follower screw and the lower carb adjusting screw, let the throttle shafts snap closed, and tightened the lower carb adjusting screw while pressing down on the adjusting link tab. Neither manual said to tighten the cam follower screw before proceeding, so that?s my first question. Next I moved the cam follower to verify that both throttle valves begin to move at same time. Wouldn?t the cam follower screw need to be tightened before doing this?

Next the cam follower pickup adjustment- with an amplifier on the top carb shaft, both manuals say to slowly rotate the throttle cam until the amplifier begins to move, and at that point the mark on the cam should align with the center of the follower. But again, should the follower screw have been tightened prior to doing this? If it should be tightened first, should the cam follower be rotated slightly one way or the other before tightening the screw?

Last question- should the throttle cable be removed prior to this procedure, or should I just unlatch the throttle level at the remote control box so I can move the throttle at the engine? I appreciate the advice.

Re: Sinc & link - 1986 Evinrude 90hp V4 crossflow

you don't need a test wheel read this. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=228183

tightening screw is correct.

the cam on the carb should be tighten, you are adjusting on the shaft of the throttle linkage, to match the carb.

disconnect cable at engine connection, so the motor linkage can move on it's own.

when reconnect throttle cable adjust cable so it connect with out moving motor linkage. you adjust cable to motor, NOT motor to cable.

Re: Sinc & link - 1986 Evinrude 90hp V4 crossflow

Much thanks- but I'm a little thick sometimes, so just a couple more questions-

After I sinc the throttle valves, insuring that both are fully closed, and have tightened the lower adjusting screw while pushing down on the link tab, I will also tighten the cam follower screw. Should the cam follower be in any particular position before I tighten it down (perhaps rotated slightly one way or the other?).

Then I'll disconect the throttle cable at the engine, move the throttle to its fully retarded stop position, and then do the cam follower pickup adjustment. I basically need to find the spot where the cam mark and the follower are aligned upon first movement of amplifier, so I will need to loosen and retighten the follower screw until they align. I assume this will be at some point where the thottle has advanced a little, but not that far, from its initial fully retarded position.

When I reconnect the throttle cable and match it to the throttle position, should I leave the throttle where it was above (cam mark and follower are aligned), or do I move it back to it's fully retarded position?

Thanks again, Jim

Re: Sinc & link - 1986 Evinrude 90hp V4 crossflow

I think I figured it out last night. After I sinc'd the throttle valves to insure they were both closed, with the cam follower screw loose, I snugged up the cam follower against the throttle cam and retightened it. I slowly advanced the cam until the amplifier began to move and found that the follower had moved past the cam mark. I backed off the idle adjustment screw a little bit, which allowed me to move the cam further away from the follower, and then I loosened and re-snugged the follower to the cam. This time it was almost aligned as the amplifier began to move. After a third time (backing out the idle screw a bit more) it aligned perfectly as the amplifier began to move.

I then moved the throttle back until the idle adjustment screw hit its stop, attached the throttle cable to its lever pin, and adjusted the throttle cable trunnion nut to match.

If anyone sees that I did something incorrect please advise. Otherwise, a big thanks to Tashasdaddy for his help. It does make sense once you actually try it- just reading the manual didn't cut it.