2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

I have a 2000 150HP Johnson outboard-Carburated. I have owned for 4 years and it runs great. Took it out of the water last November, running great. Topped off gas tank, stabilized fuel, fogged carbs. Uncovered this weekend, replaced fuel filter, removed/cleaned engine fuel filter, tried to start up. Engine would surge on and off 1 second intervals for 5 or 6 times and stall. Repeated this process for 20+ times. Checked for fuel at each carb and checked the plugs. Everything looked OK. Next day I drained a cup of gas and let it settle, it appeared to have a small amount of water in the bottom after setting an hour (~1 tbs/in 6 oz of gas). I tried to start again, this time it started and ran a little rough (like it normally does when cold) for 3 or 4 seconds and then it started to surge every second (like some one was turning the key on and off) Any ideas out there? Thanks a lot!

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

sounds like water still in fuel. do you have a fuel/water separating filter?

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

I installed a fuel/water seperator and no water is being seperated. I ran the fuel line to a fresh 5 gal container of gas, bleed out any old gas from the lines and tried to run the engine. When I first fire the engine up, it starts right up and runs for about 10 seconds and then it starts to surge and stalls after a number of surges, like someone is turning the key on and off. Each time I try to start it after, it runs for a little shorter, before it starts to surge. If I let it set awhile, it will run for 10 seconds and then starts to surge and eventually stalls again. Is there some sort of sensor on the engine that if it doesn't sense what it is looking for, it shuts down 1/2 the cylinders. This is what it appears to be doing. I'm desperate, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

surging is not like turning of the key.
turning of the key is an instant responce from the motor.
surging is a gradual responce and is most likely a fuel issue.

if you take 6 ounces of gas and have a teaspoon of water in the fuel, you might have a couple of quarts on the bottum of your fuel tank.

i would take the sender of the tank and siphon up a jar full of fuel from the bottum of the tank.

i think your carburators and vst tank might have water in them.

good luck

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

Surging may not have been the correct description. The engine will idle fine for ~10 seconds and then it acts like someone was turning the power on and off ever second, until it finally backfires and stalls out. I have drained the carbs and run the engine off a fresh 5 gal fuel tank and the engine acts the same, starts fine, idles for 10 seconds and then starts acting like power is being cut on and off every second and finallhy backfires and stalls.
I will check the main fuel tank tomorrow. You mentioned a VST, are you referring to the Vapor Seporator? I will check that as well. I really appreciate you help!

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

you could have water in the vst.
after you are 100% sure there is no water left in the system i would get a spraybotle with 50:1 in it and spray fuel inside a intake.
and listen to the motor.
if the motor picks up you you have defenatly a fuel problem.
the backfire could be a lean running carburator.

before jumping all over the place check the basics.
compression
spark& fuel
the only thing that shuts off 1/2 of the cylinders is the shift interupt switch.
it is posible that it could cause your simpton
simply disconecting it will tell you if its the switch.
i believe in your motor its on the starboard side look for black yellow wires that lead to a SWITCH.
goood luck

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it!
I'm making some progress, I think!
I pulled the boat floor and accessed the gas tank. I pulled the gas tank dip tube and siphoned 2 gallons of gas from the bottom of the tank, into a clear container and let it settle. The gas was perfectly clear with no contamination or water.
I then disconnected the Shift Interrupt Switch and no difference.
I then pulled the Fuel Modular Assembly and disasembled and cleaned the Vapor Separator, Vapor Pump, Fuel Primmer Solenoid, and Fuel Filter. Everything look perfect. I didn't pull the VRO pump apart. I reinstalled the Fuel Modular Assembly and the engine had the same problem.
I then pulled the two fuel output line from the Fuel Modular Assembly and ran the engine, no fuel or oil was being pumped out of Fuel Modular Assembly.
I then pumped the primer bulb and fuel pumped out of both the fuel output lines from the Fuel Assembly.
I pulled the line from the Pulse Limiter and I have pressure coming from the No. 6 cylinder crankcase to the VRO pump.
It appears that the VRO pump is not working.
Can you tell me if I am making the right assumptions and what I should do next.
Thanks again!

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

when you start the motor and keep squeezing the bulp and the motor runs better you defenatly have a bad VRO pump.

sound to me your on the right track.

if you have acces to gauges t a pressure gauge just before the carbs.

do a compression check on nr 6 and the rest.

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

Got a chance to work on the engine tonight and had a set back in figuring out the problem.

I started the engine and I kept squeezing the gas line primer bulb, and the engine still started to sputter and stalled out. I did this a number of times with the same results.

I then mix oil and gas in a spray bottle and sprayed in the cylinders as soon as I started the engine and it made no difference.

Based on this I started to think it wasn't a fuel problem, but I kept thinking about the fuel pump that wouldn't pump when I checked it on Sunday. I decided to check the fuel pump again and it seems to be pumping fine. I don't think I made a mistake on Sunday when I checked it, but why would it be pumping now. The only thing I can think is that I had the hose off from cylinder #6 crankcase when I check it on Sunday. I don't think I was that careless, but I can't explain it any other way.

Regardless, with the fuel pump working the engine still ran the same way, starts, idles for a few seconds and then starts to sputter and then stalls, usually with a final backfire.

I then checked the fuel pump pressure by putting a guage in line right where the fuel line leaves the fuel module assembly. The pressure was between 3 and 4 PSI. I also ran a hose from the fuel module output, into a bottle and each time I tried to start the engine, it started to fill the bottle, until it stalled out. I did notice after the engine was sputtering, during the stalling phase, I noticed some small air bubbles int the gas line which I had run into the container. I think this was from the rough engine running.

I also removed the fuel plug on each carb, one at a time and flushed the bowls out by pumping the fuel line bulb.

I will check the compression on each cylinder next. Do you have any further advise? Thanks again for all your help!

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

My motor was surging and cutting off also. Turned out to be the powerpack going out on me. Might not be the problem but it wont hurt to check. P.S. My spark checked out fine, after a few minutes of running time mine would cut off.

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

My engine starts fine, but only idles for 5-10 seconds and then starts cutting out, like it is getting the power turned on and off. Is this similar to yours? Since the engine only runs 10 -15 second total, how would I check the spark and power packs? Thanks

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

I got back to work on the boat this weekend and here is the update. Looking for some more advise.
Did a compression check and all cylinders were within 5 PSI and within spec.
Started to do the electrical tests:
Indexing Flywheel test and some of the numbers were jumping around on some of the cylinders.
Checked the primary ignintion wires and they were connected right.
Checked the spark plug wires and they were connected right.
The book says replace power pack.

Total Output Test and spark on cylinders 1, 3, & 5 would not jump 7/16" gap, spark on cylinders 2, 4, & 6 was strong.

Shift Switch Test-disconnected black/yellow wire at the commector between the power pack and shift switch and still no spark to 1, 3, &5.

Charge Coil Output Test-I don't have a Peak Reading Voltmeter, so couldn't do test.

Charge Coil Resistance Test-Resistance between brown and brown/yellow terminal in the stator connector was in range.
No continuity between ground and stator terminals, therefore OK.

Power Pack Output Test-I don't have a Peak Reading Voltmeter and Stevens Load Adaptor, so couldn't do test.

Ignition Coil resistance Test-Primary and Secondary Resistance is fine on all coils.

Punning Output Test-I don't have a Peak Reading Voltmeter, so couldn't do test.

Based on this, would you suggest I drop the $200 for a Power Pack, or should I buy a Peak Reading Voltmeter and run the test I couldn't run?

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

If you have a soldering iron, you sound handy with the tools anyway,
make a DVA adapter, its only a resistor, a diode and a capacitor.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2016261#post2016261

It does sound like powerpack, buy it here at iBoats.

The odds of 3 coils going out , on the same side, at the same time?

You might be able to try swapping coil primary wires from the PP side to side and see if the problem follows the wiring. Sometimes the primary wires are just long enough to swap sides. Plugs removed.

I would also check the PP ground for corrosion , doesn't hurt to clean everything with some elec spray cleaner. All the PP wiring connector sockets too.

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

I bought a Peak Reading Volt Meter and a Stevens PL-88 Load Adaptor and finished the rest of the Ignition System tests.
To recap:
Indexing Flywheel Test-Numbers jumped around, but all wiring checked out OK.
I BELEIVE THIS INDICATES POWER PACK PROBLEMS.

Total Output Test:
Spark would not jump 7/16" gap on 1,3 & 5 cyl

Shift Switch Test:
Disconnected Shift Switch, spark still not good at 1,3 & 5 Cyl

Charge Coil Output Test:
Everything checked out fine

Powere Pack Output Test:
MANUAL (CLYMER) SAYS YOU NEED 100V or more for V-6
I have 185 V on cyl 2, 4 & 6
BUT I ONLY HAVE 120V on cyl 1,3, & 5.

I tried switching the primary leads on the top Coil Pack and the Voltage difference and the weak spark problem switched from cyl 1 to cyl 2.

Can anyone confirm if 120 V is sufficient on the Power Pack Output test, or does the 185V to 120V difference indicate a bad Power Pack?

Is there anything else I should check before I buy the Power Pack?

As usual, thanks for all the advise!!!

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

Try this, its probably better than the manual you have.

my money is on the power pack.

http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcoisignition.html

Re: 2000 Johnson 150HP Carburated

Thanks for the excellent article, much better and more detailed than what I had in the Climers. I will perform the new tests today.
When replacing a Power Pack, is there much difference between the OMC, CDI and Sierra? They range in price form $$259-OMC, $155-Sierra and $175 CDI. If one is better, so be it and I'll spend the money, but if they are the same or made by the same manufacturer, then I would like to save my money for gas.