[sprattoo]

I bought a 95 Evinrude last year and have just about come to the end of my rope. I am hoping someone has had a similar issue and can point to a solution.

Here is the issue, along with the things I have done to repair or had done:

She starts and runs like a mint first pull. Runs super in neutral, revs right up ... sounds like 100%. Will run fine indefinately in neutral.
When I put her in gear and put it under a load it takes off like a rocket... for a few seconds, then runs at about half power wide open.

I squeeze the bulb while running... nothing, pull the primer, nothing. Put it back in neutral and it peps right up to 100%. Then under a load... same issue.

If I run at an idle for a minute, then open it right up, it starts to take off for a second, and then poops right out again. but again, in neutral will rev right up.

I have replaced coil, and coil assembly under the crank bell. I cleaned and put rebuild kits on both Carbs. Rebuild the fuel pump... replaced all gaskets and diaphrams, changed boot oil. Impeller and water flow is strong and steady.

Any ideas?

I forgot to mention the specs.
Its a 40 hp, 2 stroke, Model E40RLEOD. I checked prop specs and seems to fine with having a 11 3/4 x 17 prop.

[tashasdaddy]

sounds like it needs a linc and sinc. this is a step by step procedure, in your manual. what it does, is sets the electrical and the carboration, so that they work together at the proper time. this cost nothing to do, yourself. and would be the first thing i would try. also could be low compression. a clogged jet in one of the carbs, or the spark failing on one cylinder. your motor will sound fine running on one cylinder, in neutral. i have the same basic motor, only 1993.

[sprattoo]

Both plugs seem to fire fine in neutral, show no sign of misfire after running in neutral. However, I will be checking the plugs after running under a load probably tomorrow. Its hard to tell though because in neutral will fire on both. It does almost sound like one plug gives up when I put a load on though.
Anyway, the repair shop did a compression and spark test, fresh plugs and both results came up fine.

So I might rule out those. Does Iboats sell manuals so that I could try a linc and sinc?
The only books I have are for old model Johnsons... from something like 68 and older.

[mikesea]

Sounds like a fuel delivery to the carbs.One ,or both carbs are running out of fuel under load.Its fine at idle because the demand is low.Check all filters,be sure all hoses are tite.Also check that the timer base ,under the flywheel,connected to the throttle by a little arm is operating OK.You may not be getting timing advance

[sprattoo]

Mikesea,

Thanks I will head there next. It looks like the plate that that arm is hooked to (timing advance) is moving fine, but may not be set right.

I just took her back to the shop this AM, will give them a call and have them try screwing that arm out a little... or maybe in a little when they launch it to try to find the issue.

The fuel hoses were clear when I started this whole fiasco. I pulled them all off thinking it was a fuel flow issue myself (thus the carb kits and fuel pump re-build). I put the lines back on with hose clamps once I verified they were clear of any debris or anything.

Maybe this was a bad choice, If all else fails I will check to verify the clamps aren't cutting into the hoses, or pinching the lines or anything. At first glance though everything looked ok. Maybe they are sucking air in there under a load though.

I appreciate all the help, you guys have at least given me something to try next. We have all been just looking at it, scratching our heads.

[HighTrim]

Check to see if the timer base moves smoothly without sticking when you advance the throttle.

Take the airbox cover off & observe whether the throttle plates are parallel.

Also, the timer base should start it's travel before the throttle plates start to open, otherwise she will croak when you give her the throttle.

[sprattoo]

You guys were certainly on the right track.

My mechanic got in there and discovered that the carbs were slightly off sync. I didn't realize it, but apparently they are marked, and the rod connecting the two was working and moving them right... just not lined up correctly. (probably something I had thrown off when I did the carb kits and cleaning) He checked the book and adjusted accordingly.

She runs like a dynamo now. However if the problem returns, I may replace the powerpack as there is the slightest of stammer when slowly going from low speed to high. All thats left now, as far as I can tell is to fiddle a little with the idle so I can get a troll out of her.

Thank you everyone who replied, you at least got us looking in the right direction... even if, when I called the shop, they were already on a similar path as well. My funds had run out, and I was planning on suffering through this issue myself.

[Dennisanoka]

Sprattoo,

Here's my 2 cents. I don't know what your mechanic charged you, but may I suggest this, if you pick up the shop manual for your engine, next time you can keep those $ in your pocket. If you can read and have a few tools doing a linc and sync takes about 15 minutes. (after you read the manual) I think a screw driver would have been all you needed.

This goes for the rest of your issues with your engine. It takes alot of the guess work out of troubleshooting. The manual takes the mystery out of something that is not very complicated to begin with. And what the manual doesn't explain there are those here who will be happy to help you unsderstand.

[Dennisanoka]

BTW,

That slight stammer - could still be the linc and sync. That's just my opinion. Just because you paid someone to do it doesn't necessarily mean it's perfect. This is why if you knew how to do it using the manual and understood what was happening you could check his work and tweak it if needed.

I guess this added up to my 4 cents.

[mikesea]

Kudos again to Tashasoldman.Sync an link.Spratto.Your powerpack is fine.You MAY need to richen up by turning out the needle valves ,say 1/4 turn.