update...not good

bsh21wash · May 3, 2007

Well I was getting ready to head over to Kennewick when I decided to run the compression check.

You ready for this 180, 0, 175, 150, 160, 150...yes that is a ZERO!! Damnit plus the cylinder with the 0, the spark plug tip was blown

claycts · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

Not good, whole in piston? Dropped valve? Would not be heasgasket unless blown out the sides. Damaged plug could be valve related. Othe resaon is rings are collapsed.

Squirt oil in the cylinder and test again. Pull valve cover and check the rocker arms.

Hope you can solve it but does read like a rebuild.

Limited-Time · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

claycts said:
Not good, whole in piston? Dropped valve? Would not be heasgasket unless blown out the sides. Damaged plug could be valve related. Othe resaon is rings are collapsed.

Squirt oil in the cylinder and test again. Pull valve cover and check the rocker arms.

Hope you can solve it but does read like a rebuild.

Zero compression not likely a head gasket (note: never say never). More than likely a valve, or holed piston. Best bet is to pull the head, it's going to have to come off as some point any way. Hopefully the problems in the head.

bsh21wash · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

But the other readings on the opposite side are not within 10% like everyone says there suppose to be?? 150 compared to 180 thats not good is it? Thanks

Don S · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

You might as well pull the head with 0 compression. If the cylinder or block has been damaged, it doesn't matter what the other side is.

Windykid · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

If you have a hole in the piston you will also have some metal in the oil.

Coors · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

A spark plug tip blown is usually due to detonation- improper gas or timing too far advanced. Or too lean.

bsh21wash · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

Looks like I will just be getting the motor rebuilt, probably my best bet. Does $1900 sound like a decent price??

claycts · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

bsh21wash said:
Looks like I will just be getting the motor rebuilt, probably my best bet. Does $1900 sound like a decent price??

I would look into a short block. If you dumped a vlave or the the piston did let go you are looking at headwork also. A long block would be kind of high, but a short block will get the job done. Just my $.02

bruceb58 · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

claycts said:
I would look into a short block. If you dumped a vlave or the the piston did let go you are looking at headwork also. A long block would be kind of high, but a short block will get the job done. Just my $.02

Wouldn't he want to get a long block then?

hullofalottatrouble · May 3, 2007

Re: update...not good

yeah why not a long block? you can get 2 new heads installed for like an extra $150... i got my long block for $1300 last summer

bsh21wash · May 5, 2007

Re: update...not good

$1300 from where? Also been thinkin that I want to install this myself along with a couple of buddys. Does anyone know if its hard to do??

Rob454 · May 5, 2007

Re: update...not good

1900 is pretty high even for a marine motor. I can get mine rebuilt for 800-1000$. 13-1500 shoudl be average for a completely reman motor.
the install isnt that hard. i did two 305s so far in my buddys boats and one 460. that was hard jsut because of the sheer size of the motor going in such a small boat
ROb

180shabah · May 5, 2007

Re: update...not good

As long as you can lift high enough to clear the transom, then it is pretty simple. Don't forget, you need an alignment bar to get everything lined up. Otherwise you will be pulling the engine again to replace the coupler.

bsh21wash · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

Any of you guys in the Seattle, Wa area that know a good place to get a long block for a decent price?

Also when taking these motors out, I want to pull the outdrive first right?

SuperNova · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

Hold up--your gettin' a little ahead of yourself there. I'v seen the electrode overheat before, fall off and then stick between the exhaust valve and seat and hold the valve open. I think I would look into it a little bit more before you throw away 2 grand and a perfectly good weekend.
--
Stan

bsh21wash · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

I plan to take it apart, but im just seeing my options. I'm still waiting on my manual to come.

bsh21wash · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

I plan to take it apart, but im just seeing my options. I'm still waiting on my manual to come. You probably didnt read my other posts, I think it's a little more than that.

Windykid · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

Nova is rite! Way ahead of yourself unless you have money to burn. Trouble shoot first. I have seen a vave so tight it would not close.

Again check oil for metal shavings.
Remove valve covers and inspect.
Pull heads if necisary.
Just do it one step at a time.

SuperNova · May 7, 2007

Re: update...not good

Yeah, I read your other posts, doesn't change my mind.

update...not good

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