1983 115hp Mercury bogging down or choke problem?

TimDollar · #1 January 20th, 2007, 08:51 PM

I just bought a 1983 115 v6 and it starts but will not idle unless i have at least half throttle and when i hit the choke it revs real high for a few seconds. Do you think is it a choke issue or what?

bhile · #2 January 20th, 2007, 10:12 PM

How long has the motor sat without being ran? If its been several years, read this: http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi...6;gtid=1035575

Silvertip · #3 January 20th, 2007, 10:45 PM

Carb rebuild time. If you hit the choke and she revs, its not getting fuel without the choke.

TimDollar · #4 January 21st, 2007, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silvertip

Carb rebuild time. If you hit the choke and she revs, its not getting fuel without the choke.

TimDollar · #5 January 21st, 2007, 06:47 PM

I go it to idle and now I see gas squirting out of carb number 2. What would make gas squirt out of the carb from the side where a screw with hole in the middle of it is?

OldMercsRule · #6 January 21st, 2007, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimDollar

I just bought a 1983 115 v6 and it starts but will not idle unless i have at least half throttle and when i hit the choke it revs real high for a few seconds. Do you think is it a choke issue or what?

Did Merc make an '83 v6? Thought it was an inline. JR

TimDollar · #7 January 21st, 2007, 09:10 PM

Sorry. It is an inline 6.

emckelvy · #8 January 21st, 2007, 10:34 PM

Gas is pouring out of #2 carb while it's running because the needle/seat assy for that carb is likely shot and gas is leaking past the needle.

Best thing to do is a recondition of the carbs; pull the float chamber tops and inspect internals. If they look really bad inside, pull all 3 carbs off the motor and go thru them thoroughly.

If they look fairly clean inside, you can probably get away with a recondition in-place. Renew the float seat/needle assy and float on each carb.

Remove the idle mixture adjust screws on each carb and also the brass main jet plug at the bottom front of each carb, then flush out each carb with carburetor-cleaner spray followed by a blast of compressed air if you've got it.

Be sure to spray thru the holes where the idle mix screws go and blow air thru there too. Flush thru the float bowls so the effluent runs out the main jets' hole.

This should ensure there aren't any nasty chunks left in the carbs.

Combined with the new floats, float seats and needles, adjusted to the correct float level, your carbs should be non-leakers.

BTW you can purchase relatively inexpensive carb "packing kits" for each carb, this'll give you all the gaskets and small parts you'll need for the carb cleaning. The float/needle assy's and floats are available as separate parts also.

Cheers...........ed

Clams Canino · #9 January 22nd, 2007, 02:55 AM

Agreed - clean the carbs.. and then refer to my Timing and Sync post in the FAQ's on this site.

-W

TimDollar · #10 January 26th, 2007, 12:24 AM

Thanks! I got openned the float chamber on the #2 and looked ok. I then started it back and no more problem with gas leaking. Maybe the float was stuck. I just took it to the lake. It start and idles good. Motor and boat runs good at idle and very slow speed, but when i give it gas it does not take off. Sounds / feels like it bogs down. Maybe its not firing good or something. It shacks a lot and has very little power. Should I replace the plugs? If the compression is not good would that cause this kind of problem.

Laddies · #11 January 26th, 2007, 09:07 AM

I hate to be a repeater but about 3 or 4 others have said clean the carbs, take them off and clean all 3 before you damage your engine trying to half ***** it

Silvertip · #12 January 26th, 2007, 10:06 AM

Cleaning and rebuilding means removal from the engine, complete disassembly, soaking in carb cleaner, full inspection and cleaning of every passage and jet. Blown out with compressed air and assembled with new kits. Follow that with link&sync procedure in the service manual. Follow that with idle mixture adjustment with the engine in the water, not on muffs.

jimmbo · #13 January 26th, 2007, 10:17 AM

The floats do like to stick. My 1984 115 had a carb float that routinely would stick. A quick removal of the float bowl cover and it would be fine. Replacing the float and adjustment of the level never made any difference, it would still stick.

Laddies · #14 January 26th, 2007, 11:00 AM

jimmbo, if you have continueing problems with leaking floats on a inline then you to need to either take them off and find the problem and repair them properly or pay a shop to do it for you

bhile · #15 January 26th, 2007, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldMercsRule

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimDollar

I just bought a 1983 115 v6 and it starts but will not idle unless i have at least half throttle and when i hit the choke it revs real high for a few seconds. Do you think is it a choke issue or what?

Did Merc make an '83 v6? Thought it was an inline. JR

They made a 83 150 V-6. I have one.

TimDollar · #16 January 26th, 2007, 07:26 PM

how do you tell the difference between v6 and inline 6?

Plainsman · #17 January 26th, 2007, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimDollar

how do you tell the difference between v6 and inline 6?

If you pull the cowling off, an inline will have all 6 sparkplugs in a row, in the middle.

OldMercsRule · #18 January 26th, 2007, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhile

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldMercsRule

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimDollar

I just bought a 1983 115 v6 and it starts but will not idle unless i have at least half throttle and when i hit the choke it revs real high for a few seconds. Do you think is it a choke issue or what?

Did Merc make an '83 v6? Thought it was an inline. JR

They made a 83 150 V-6. I have one.

The guy said it was a 115 hp, I know they made a v6 150 hp, (and some larger hp models as well) not a 115 hp. JR

TimDollar · #19 January 27th, 2007, 10:49 AM

Thans for all the advice. Any suggestions on the best way of checking the compression? I bought the compression tester and have herd different ways.

MortenH · #20 January 30th, 2007, 07:49 AM

Hello

Careful with running before the fuel problem (most likely) is solved. I fried the #2 piston on my 84 I6 running with fuel problem causing the engine to bog down when hitting the throttle. In my case it was a combination of the carbs and the fuel line (primer bulb). To rebuild the carbs is a cheap and easy way to ensure proper fuel delivery.

-M-

Silvertip · #21 January 30th, 2007, 04:06 PM

19 posts here and the closest we've gotten to any diagnostics on your part is the purchase of a compression gauge. Follow the instructions that came with it. I feel we are slowly buidling you a service manual which is not what this forum is about. How about actually trying some of the things that have been suggested. You ask if you should change plugs. Why not pull them and see if they need to be replaced. You are looking at about 12 bucks so if you don't know what a good or bad plug looks like, you will at least learn what a good one looks like and can compare it with what you have. How simple is that. You were told several times to rebuild the carbs. A service manual has all the information you need including the final mixture adjustment as well as the link&sync procedure. If you don't want to spend the money for a manual, at least visit the library and see if they have one. Most have at least an aftermarket version. Be a sport -- don't just keep asking questions without giving us feedback on what you were told to try.