1995 Evinrude 130 won't start, HELP!

[Fed]

I used the kit and now it's priming great so that's one plus.

So the kit fixed the leaking crack?
So there's no fuel going through the primer valve when the key is NOT depressed?
So there is fuel going through the primer valve when the key IS depressed & the system is pressurized by hand or fuel pump?

No spark.
The first thing to check is that the yellow/black wire coming from the powerpack is NOT grounded.
This wire is the kill wire for the ignition, it is grounded by turning the key to OFF or by pulling the safety lanyard.

 

[Bigben_1]

So the kit fixed the leaking crack?
So there's no fuel going through the primer valve when the key is NOT depressed?
So there is fuel going through the primer valve when the key IS depressed & the system is pressurized by hand or fuel pump?

No spark.
The first thing to check is that the yellow/black wire coming from the powerpack is NOT grounded.
This wire is the kill wire for the ignition, it is grounded by turning the key to OFF or by pulling the safety lanyard.

Yes, the primer is now functioning perfectly with no leaking. It actually primes when the key is depressed. It's interesting because the spark checker with the light was showing a weak light yesterday but the open air tester gives nothing. So I'm not exactly sure that there's NO spark as much an extremely weak one. Does this make sense? Should I still check those wires?

 

[Fed]

Yes, disconnect the black/yellow wire from the powerpack (your's should have a single connection plug), connect your air gap spark tester & crank it over to see if you now have spark.
If it happens to start you will have to reconnect the black/yellow to kill it.
You could also disconnect & ground the other 3 plug leads to stop it from starting while you test the remaining lead.

EDIT: You can alternatively disconnect the black/yellow wire & test it for grounding with a multimeter if that is more to your liking.
(With the key in the ON position & safety lanyard in place)

 

[Bigben_1]

Yes, disconnect the black/yellow wire from the powerpack (your's should have a single connection plug), connect your air gap spark tester & crank it over to see if you now have spark.
If it happens to start you will have to reconnect the black/yellow to kill it.
You could also disconnect & ground the other 3 plug leads to stop it from starting while you test the remaining lead.

EDIT: You can alternatively disconnect the black/yellow wire & test it for grounding with a multimeter if that is more to your liking.
(With the key in the ON position & safety lanyard in place)

Disconnected black/yellow wire plug and still no spark with open air tester. Also no spark with the lightbulb spark tester on any plug, even with ground disconnected.

 

[Fed]

OK, reconnect the black/yellow wire.

Now disconnect the yellow wire & the yellow/gray wire from the terminal strip on the motor, tape the ends of the wires up or position them so they don't touch anything & try for spark again.

 

[Bigben_1]

OK, reconnect the black/yellow wire.

Now disconnect the yellow wire & the yellow/gray wire from the terminal strip on the motor, tape the ends of the wires up or position them so they don't touch anything & try for spark again.

Yellow gray/yellow wires all disconnected and still no spark.

 

[Fed]

Well they were the easy tests so now it's off to cdielectronics for you.
Download the trouble shooting guide it's much easier to navigate.
Your motor appears to start at page #57.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

Let us know if you have any questions regarding the tests or if you need any help at all.

 

[Bigben_1]

Well they were the easy tests so now it's off to cdielectronics for you.
Download the trouble shooting guide it's much easier to navigate.
Your motor appears to start at page #57.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

Let us know if you have any questions regarding the tests or if you need any help at all.

I'm going to check YouTube for instructional videos, I think that may help me figure it out, or I may just bring it to a mechanic at this point. Based on what I'm reading, it could be the power pack OR the stator. Any way to easily determine which one?

 

[Fed]

Based on what I'm reading, it could be the power pack OR the stator. Any way to easily determine which one?

If you go through the cdi steps you will see they don't actually test the powerpack, instead they test all the inputs & outputs and if they are correct and you still have no spark then it must be the powerpack at fault.

Stator testing for output & resistance is all there, it may look a bit daunting at first but if you read through it a couple of times it will make sense.

Aside from the so called stator coils which are only the alternator coils to charge the battery (yellow & yellow/gray) there only charge coil & trigger coil to test resistance and if necessary output of.

 

[Bigben_1]

I guess I might spring for a multimeter and dva adaptor.

 

[Fed]

A multimeter + DVA + knowledge gained has got to be worth the effort in my book.

Keep us in the loop because it helps a lot of people who will read about your journey.

 

[Bigben_1]

I will certainly post updates as I hate when others don't.

 

[racerone]

Has the starter been taken apart for inspection ?

 

[Bigben_1]

Has the starter been taken apart for inspection ?

It hasn't but it's spinning the motor like a beast. I can neither see nor hear any difference in cranking speed since I've had the boat.

 

[Bigben_1]

Any way to do this without a dva adaptor as I can't find one locally?

 

[Fed]

Yes do resistance tests on all the stator coils with your multimeter, see where that leads you.
Have you read through the CDI troubleshooter for your motor yet?

 

[Bigben_1]

Yes do resistance tests on all the stator coils with your multimeter, see where that leads you.
Have you read through the CDI troubleshooter for your motor yet?

Yes I have. Looks like all of those readings are from a dva adaptor though. How would I check the stator with the multimeter? I've ordered a dva adaptor and will have it Tuesday and then I can check properly.

 

[jakedaawg]

Yes I have. Looks like all of those readings are from a dva adaptor though. How would I check the stator with the multimeter? I've ordered a dva adaptor and will have it Tuesday and then I can check properly.

Resistance or ohms is done with a standard multimeter set on the appropriate ohm scale. A DVA is an adaptor that allows you to some extent to read peak voltage. The old analog Stevens instrument Co. peak reading voltmeters are beter IMHO but many people get the output or voltage tests done with a DVA adaptor.

 

[Fed]

It may be somewhat different from my 1988 model V4, can you identify yours on the CDI troubleshooter, page # & description so we are sure we're on the same page.
So many different ones displayed, page #57 I mentioned earlier may not be your motor.

 

[cfauvel]

Yes I have. Looks like all of those readings are from a dva adaptor though. How would I check the stator with the multimeter? I've ordered a dva adaptor and will have it Tuesday and then I can check properly.

just the voltage tests need the dva adapter, the ohms and continuity can be done with what you have..

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...3#post10422933