Mgsissonvt
Cadet
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2016
- Messages
- 13
Newbie here, both on the forum and working on boats. I've done plenty of work on vehicles and know my way around decently.
Here is the scenario with way more information than anyone should need. I know this is not a coveted boat but it came with the trailer I bought and I'd like to get it running. The boat has not been run for a couple of years. The last owner said the timing belt had broken and they could never get it figured out after that.
Motor: 1987 2.3l ford OMC cobra i/o. I tried to specify everywhere but I've only been putting marine parts on this boat.
Here is what I have done.
1. Installed new marine timing belt: Lined up the cam/crank at TDC and verified by removing the #1 and #4 plug that they were both at TDC. There were no marks on the oil slinger wheel and somewhere on here I saw that it's position is irrelevant. After installing I rotated 720 degrees and everything was aligned properly.
2. Set the Distributor to fire on #1 at TDC on #1 cylinder. (I noticed the position is not the same as some of the factory pictures, but it should fire #1 at TDC and also is in the correct firing order). The distributor was moved and re-positioned to get it lined up right.
3. Removed and cleaned the carb, although it did not look bad at all.
4.Tried to start the motor. It turned over but very very slowly. Turned over 3-5 times with no issues.
5.Identified that there was no fuel getting sucked into the carb via the fuel pump. Removed the fuel pump, cleaned and replaced the gasket and re-installed. I'm using an auxiliary fuel tank with good fuel and a line run into the fuel separator.
6. Tried to start the motor. It turned over slowly. Turned over 3 times with no issues.
7. Replaced the battery, marine starter (BTW you CAN order marine starters for this boat form O'Reilly's auto parts, the manufacturer is Wilson and they are 100% match of factory marine), replaced ground and hot connections after reading on the forum that those could cause the sluggish turn-over. I was hoping that maybe the pump wasn't getting hit enough to actually pull fuel.
8. Tried to start the motor. It turned over like a brand new motor, quick and it honestly sounded great at least 3 or 4 revolutions.
9. Before reconnecting all of the fuel lines I poured a little fuel into the carb to see if i could get it to fire. Tried to start the motor and it was maybe two revolutions and then a hard clunk.
Now the motor will turn by hand to TDC on the #1 and #4 and then its like it hit a wall. I can reverse it back to TDC on #1 and #4 and it stops again. I can't imagine that it was any of the parts that were added/removed because it was turning over fine. We have removed the starter, fuel pump and it still hits the wall. We removed all 4 plugs, no water, turned the motor by hand and watched with a light scope and each of the cylinders are moving properly and look good. I removed the parts that I installed and we still have the same issue. I have no idea what could be causing this. I had a similar experience in a 4runner once where it has been left in gear so I verified that I'm in neutral and can spin the prop. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I'm wondering about the oil slinger wheel or the distributor positioning. Could either of these cause the issues we are seeing.
Thanks in advance.
Matt
Here is the scenario with way more information than anyone should need. I know this is not a coveted boat but it came with the trailer I bought and I'd like to get it running. The boat has not been run for a couple of years. The last owner said the timing belt had broken and they could never get it figured out after that.
Motor: 1987 2.3l ford OMC cobra i/o. I tried to specify everywhere but I've only been putting marine parts on this boat.
Here is what I have done.
1. Installed new marine timing belt: Lined up the cam/crank at TDC and verified by removing the #1 and #4 plug that they were both at TDC. There were no marks on the oil slinger wheel and somewhere on here I saw that it's position is irrelevant. After installing I rotated 720 degrees and everything was aligned properly.
2. Set the Distributor to fire on #1 at TDC on #1 cylinder. (I noticed the position is not the same as some of the factory pictures, but it should fire #1 at TDC and also is in the correct firing order). The distributor was moved and re-positioned to get it lined up right.
3. Removed and cleaned the carb, although it did not look bad at all.
4.Tried to start the motor. It turned over but very very slowly. Turned over 3-5 times with no issues.
5.Identified that there was no fuel getting sucked into the carb via the fuel pump. Removed the fuel pump, cleaned and replaced the gasket and re-installed. I'm using an auxiliary fuel tank with good fuel and a line run into the fuel separator.
6. Tried to start the motor. It turned over slowly. Turned over 3 times with no issues.
7. Replaced the battery, marine starter (BTW you CAN order marine starters for this boat form O'Reilly's auto parts, the manufacturer is Wilson and they are 100% match of factory marine), replaced ground and hot connections after reading on the forum that those could cause the sluggish turn-over. I was hoping that maybe the pump wasn't getting hit enough to actually pull fuel.
8. Tried to start the motor. It turned over like a brand new motor, quick and it honestly sounded great at least 3 or 4 revolutions.
9. Before reconnecting all of the fuel lines I poured a little fuel into the carb to see if i could get it to fire. Tried to start the motor and it was maybe two revolutions and then a hard clunk.
Now the motor will turn by hand to TDC on the #1 and #4 and then its like it hit a wall. I can reverse it back to TDC on #1 and #4 and it stops again. I can't imagine that it was any of the parts that were added/removed because it was turning over fine. We have removed the starter, fuel pump and it still hits the wall. We removed all 4 plugs, no water, turned the motor by hand and watched with a light scope and each of the cylinders are moving properly and look good. I removed the parts that I installed and we still have the same issue. I have no idea what could be causing this. I had a similar experience in a 4runner once where it has been left in gear so I verified that I'm in neutral and can spin the prop. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I'm wondering about the oil slinger wheel or the distributor positioning. Could either of these cause the issues we are seeing.
Thanks in advance.
Matt