RaceCarRich
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- May 31, 2015
- Messages
- 233
2000 Bayliner Capri 1950, 3.0L. Starting up my second season as a boater. Went out on the lake. Boat immediately stalls going into reverse at light throttle. Going straight to high throttle reverse is okay.
I've done my forum searching and it appears that the pros/experts all say to change the lower shift cable while a few DYI'ers seem to have had luck fixing the problem with a shift cable adjustment. I want to try the adjustment as to me the lower cable seemed smooth when operated by hand and the boat has never had a shift cable bellow leak. I know the prior owner and doubt the cables have ever been touched before. Online I found several methods to adjust the cables but I went with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s_tgevX2aI.
The only thing I found out of spec was the remote cable from F to R traveled 3-3/16" which is out of spec from 3" +/- 1/8". I can't believe the extra .062" (.031" in each direction) is going to have a lot of impact unless you tell me so.
The issue I had was that after all is back together (did this twice), with the engine off it wouldn't lock the prop in both F and R. I found that if I didn't include the 4 turns of preload (spinning the plastic barrel) on the remote cable, it did allow the prop to lock in both F and R when using the throttle handle. Perhaps this has something to do with the remote cable being slightly out of spec.
All adjustments I read talked about starting with the adjustable stud in the "bottom" of the slot. Comparing my setup to most of the other images, it appears that my assembly is upside down. The lower cable is on top and the remote and shift assist on bottom. Given this, can I assume that all the way up in the slot (where I found the stud btw) is actually the "bottom" of the slot and thereby the starting point?
I also wanted to see what the interrupter switch was doing so I unplugged it and put a meter on it. Granted it was approaching midnight and the rechargeable light was dying, but as I cycled through F to R and back, the switch kept reading open. I also pushed the switch plunger in with a little screwdriver and the circuit never closed. When is the switch supposed to make the circuit? Is it open in the neutral "V" and then again open on the high point of the cam (all the way in gear) and only completes the ignition grounding circuit on the ramp of the cam? What would be the symptoms of a bad switch? Boat has always seemed to sort of grind into gear a bit but I was told that was normal.
Lastly, is there any way to test all this in my driveway? I hate to tow an hour, pay a ramp fee, and then block the ramp because I can't get my boat into reverse.
Thanks
I've done my forum searching and it appears that the pros/experts all say to change the lower shift cable while a few DYI'ers seem to have had luck fixing the problem with a shift cable adjustment. I want to try the adjustment as to me the lower cable seemed smooth when operated by hand and the boat has never had a shift cable bellow leak. I know the prior owner and doubt the cables have ever been touched before. Online I found several methods to adjust the cables but I went with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s_tgevX2aI.
The only thing I found out of spec was the remote cable from F to R traveled 3-3/16" which is out of spec from 3" +/- 1/8". I can't believe the extra .062" (.031" in each direction) is going to have a lot of impact unless you tell me so.
The issue I had was that after all is back together (did this twice), with the engine off it wouldn't lock the prop in both F and R. I found that if I didn't include the 4 turns of preload (spinning the plastic barrel) on the remote cable, it did allow the prop to lock in both F and R when using the throttle handle. Perhaps this has something to do with the remote cable being slightly out of spec.
All adjustments I read talked about starting with the adjustable stud in the "bottom" of the slot. Comparing my setup to most of the other images, it appears that my assembly is upside down. The lower cable is on top and the remote and shift assist on bottom. Given this, can I assume that all the way up in the slot (where I found the stud btw) is actually the "bottom" of the slot and thereby the starting point?
I also wanted to see what the interrupter switch was doing so I unplugged it and put a meter on it. Granted it was approaching midnight and the rechargeable light was dying, but as I cycled through F to R and back, the switch kept reading open. I also pushed the switch plunger in with a little screwdriver and the circuit never closed. When is the switch supposed to make the circuit? Is it open in the neutral "V" and then again open on the high point of the cam (all the way in gear) and only completes the ignition grounding circuit on the ramp of the cam? What would be the symptoms of a bad switch? Boat has always seemed to sort of grind into gear a bit but I was told that was normal.
Lastly, is there any way to test all this in my driveway? I hate to tow an hour, pay a ramp fee, and then block the ramp because I can't get my boat into reverse.
Thanks