Surge brake problem....help!

scutty

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Sep 30, 2013
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Electric brakes are generally not recommended for boat trailers. If your lights go out from being dunked all the time that is one thing. Brakes? not a good idea. Plus your vehicle needs to be set up for it. Electrics need a 20A circuit at least and a then you need the controller in the cab. I vote for fixing the surge brakes. They are not complicated systems. For the same reason electric brakes are not recommend for water, hydraulic brakes can fall victim from being submerged frequently. Drum or disk can get corroded and not move freely. I agree with the suggestion to do the parking lot low speed test with an helper but you can test surge brakes with a big screw driver and jack stands. Start with the basics and work up. If you can?t remember the last time the brake fluid was replaced, yes replaced. Do it. It takes less than an hour and about $10 of brake fluid. Get all that milky white water absorbed fluid out. Get all the air out. Then get a buddy to push on the tongue while you check out the operation of each wheel. Lube, clean, replace whatever is not moving freely. Only after the hubs/disk/drums check out move to the master cylinder.
 

smokeonthewater

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Electric brakes do not short out in water.... Neither do my fully sealed led lights

Glass bulbs often fail when hot and submerged but that has absolutely nothing to do with an fully sealed epoxy bedded electromagnet in a trailer brake system.....

If the O/P prefers to repair his surge brakes then more power to him but lets stick to facts instead of fairy tails.

No steel drum brakes work well in salt water but that has nothing to do with being electric or hydraulic.
 

H20Rat

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I'd be curious how many guys here with electric brakes have battery boxes mounted on the trailer? Then I'd be really curious to know how many of those batteries are actually good? Federal DOT requirements specify you need breakaway trailer brake capability (if you need brakes at least), and you can't get that without a working 12v battery on electric brakes. I personally don't want yet another electrical system and battery to maintain in a seasonal vehicle, 9 seasonal batteries is enough
 

smokeonthewater

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I have break away boxes on all of my trailers and all are functional.

I get several years out of a batt and they are $13 shipped for new ones.
 

JASinIL2006

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The breakaway batteries are pretty cheap, the only problem (if you can call it that) is that the battery's size makes it hard to find locally, so they have to be bought online. I check it once or twice a year, not difficult.

I agree with Kevin that electric brakes are great. My trailer had no brakes at all before I added them, and they've worked very well. I boat in freshwater only, and tow about 3500 miles a year. They don't need to be unplugged when you dip the trailer and they've worked flawlessly.
 

bruceb58

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I thought this thread was about fixing the OP's hydraulic brakes!
 

7lazy77

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I am going to post pictures of the trailer tonight. The trailer is a Dorsey & I have tried to search for the manufacturer to ask them some questions, but I guess they must be out of business, because I can't find anything. There is a knob on the side of the actuator that I was wondering what the purpose of it was & if I need to be "engaging" it, when I tow the trailer? Not sure what the function of the knob is, but figured I would try to find out more about the trailer before taking it to a trailer shop.
 
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bruceb58

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Take a picture of your actuator. Dorsey doesn't make it so it will be one of the common actuators used on trailers.
 

UncleWillie

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Dorsey did not make the Brakes or the Actuator, They just purchased them and, installed them on the trailer.
And they likely changed manufacturers over the years. Even if you could contact them, they might ask you what actuator you have?
What is the Make/Model of the actuator? It is stamped on it somewhere. Photos?
 
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7lazy77

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I am at work at the moment & the firewall wont let me in photoshop, so I can't post a picture. I did find a very similar actuator that is on my trailer at this link http://www.********************/produ...ement?a=538166 . Sorry, but I am a knucklehead when it comes to some of this stuff & I don't always use the correct terms, but the "knob" that I am referring to is towards the top & it can be manually slid into a locking position when pushed down. Could you please tell me the function of this "knob"? Does it need to be in the up or down position when I am hooked up & towing? Is there a chance that this could be the reason I am getting the jolting in the trailer when I am hauling?
Sorry for all the questions, but I also have a smaller fishing boat trailer (Shoreland'r) that does NOT have this "knob" like the Dorsey trailer has, so this got me to thinking that maybe I am not doing something that I should be? Thanks.


******** Link won't show on the post. But if you go to Sportmansguide website & enter item #WX2-164310, this will bring up the picture of the actuator that is very similar to what is on my trailer.
 
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bruceb58

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That would be an Attwood.

That black "knob" is the fill for you master cylinder.

If you are talking about the lever, that needs to be up when you hook up your ball and down to secure the coupler to your ball.

Now you have me worried about more than just brakes. Are you using the correct diameter ball for your coupler? If this is for your Chaparral in your signature, you probably need a 2 5/16" ball. Please tell me you are not using the same ball that you use for your smaller boat.

I think you need to post a picture so we can be sure what you have.
 
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Idlespeedonly

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If that is his coupler, it uses a 2" ball.
They dont make that style in 2 5/16".
 

bruceb58

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I doubt that is his exact model coupler.

We need to see a picture of what he has.
 
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Idlespeedonly

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BTW, the knob you asked about is used for backing up. It lock the couplers movement.
It is supposed to reset itself.
 

bruceb58

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So the "knob" you were referring to is the lever on the side?

Is the lever in the up position?
 

smokeonthewater

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That is an attwood coupler. The lockout on that coupler is the pin in the long curved slot on the side.... Put it in the notch to lock out the brakes...

Black cap on top is fluid fill.
 
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