Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

[archbuilder]

Well at least the support shack has hot and cold water GA, lol

Spent all day fiddiling with cutting out the rear seat backs and carefully drilling holes for the hinges.......not much adjustment with these hinges. Got them drilled on to trimming out the seat bases with Sapele wood.

 

[GA_Boater]

Are you planning on hinging the seat bottoms, too. The base isn't all that thick, but storage is storage.

How are you going to hold the seat back up for when you stick your head in there?

I see some sewing on the horizon. :smile:

 

[archbuilder]

GA the bottoms will be hinged and allow access to the area under the seat. There is about 6" vertically under the seat, so some good storage. As for the backs, I only think I will flip them up for a quick look at the battery or to access infrequently used items. If I need to work on something a little longer, I can always take the backs off, the hinges are quick release. And the bottom frames will come out with a couple of screws for full access.

 

[gm280]

Arch, I really like your particular attention to detail. I could work with you very well any day.

Seem the little things take the longest to get finished. At least it does with me. It is looking real good. :thumb:

 

[Pusher]

the hinges are quick release.

Those hinges look real nice. It's it just a matter of pulling what looks to be a clevis pin at the hinge point?

It's coming along nicely!

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks GM! Glad I passed the test! Pusher they have some sort of wire circle clip on the end of the pin. It works ok, I was actually wondering what its called last night. I'll try to remember to take a pic of it. I think I may see if I can find some pins with a ball detente on them, that would work a lot better.

I spent all day making a big piece of wood into smaller ones lol! The stock I had was 13' long piece of 8" wide Sapele in the rough. It was a heavy 4/4. I needed to mill it down to about 1/4" by 7-1/2" wide stock, two pieces at 4' and two at 8'. I don't have an 8" jointer, so I leveled out my build table and made a router jig. It consist of two rails and a u shaped box that rides on the rails. The router moves back and forth in the box, which is slid forward about 1" after each pass. This allows a strait cut bit to mill the top of the stock off flat (assuming the table is flat). I shimmed the stock so it wouldn't rock on the table and hot guled it down. Never tried it before but it worked nice.





Flipped them over and started running them through the planer. This needs a couple of more passes but getting there!



I ripped down a piece o plywood slightly wider than the stock, hot guled it to the plywood and used it as a strait edge jig, works great!



After that I cut the stock down to 7-1/2" wide. My bandsaw can only resaw 6", need to get a riser block. So I stood it on end and ripped it with my table saw. That left about 1-1/2" in the middle.



Activate SAWZAL powers, and two ripped boards!



Final product.



It was a lot of work, but it will give the seat bases some bling. And yes I have been thinking of getting a 8" heilical head jointer....thought a lot about that today lol! Its moving up on my list!

 

[archbuilder]

Oh I also wet out the grain with denatured alcohol to see what the grain will look like with some finish on it.

 

[jbcurt00]

Are you fortunate enough to find Sapele locally?

Nice looking piece of it, excellent use of on hand tools to get it done.

Never heard of the hot glue trick, probably held great and w a little motivation let loose w little to no evidence/residue.

Never done the router trick, but have seen it done. I've used plywood as a straight edge for ripping uneven lumber quite a few times. Works great.

Thanks for posting all that. Sure it will help someone else......

 

[sphelps]

Very cool ! And a lot of saw dust !

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I used the same hinges on my Bayliner when I enclosed the rear of the boat. Anyway, I got the spring ball clevis pins at lowes. After I lost a couple I added 1/16" diameter wire rope lanyards.

 

[Pusher]

I don't know why, but I got curious about the pin
The stainless steel "Spring Loaded Clevis Pin" looks like the type for our outboards. Might be a pain if you were in a hurry.

The "Coupler Locking Pin" might be too industrial looking.

Now the cats meow of goldie locks decisions might be the "push button quick release pin lock".

 

[archbuilder]

JB we have a local supplier that I usually geek out at when I go by...most of their stuff is typical for this area, plain sawn red oak, maple, birch, some hickory and ash. But they always have a lot of cool stuff, quarter sawn white oak (one of my favorite woods to work with), purpler heart, coca-bola, mahogany, teak, blood wood, ipe, sapele, etc. I could spend a small fortune it there! The had about 1000 BF of the sapele when I was in there, the piece I ended up with was pretty typical, nice looking piece. The problem is most of the cool stuff is in the rough. The will strait line and surface, either S2S or S4S (two sides or for sides), but usually want you to buy 100 board feet before they will do that. Hopefully the post will help someone out. By the way there are great videos on all of those techniques on youtube. Hot glue works great. I have heard of using carpet tape too, but I have yet to find it locally. if anyone has a favorite I can find online let me know.

Sam I have a 55 gallon drum full of dust lol!

Chuck / Pusther, I found some stainless pins with the ball detente online for my ski tower for Miss Morgan online. I was surprised at how cheap you could get the stainless ones, these were 3/8" diameter. But for now the tie wire doohicky will work, lots of bigger fish to fry! Lol! Thanks for all the thoughts!

 

[gm280]

Arch, nice use of what you have to do the job. I do like the wood and how you went about getting it flattened and straight. I usually buy my hardwoods rough sawn and use my DeWalt planer to clean them up. I was fortunate to get a 17" band-saw for a Christmas present one year and that thing can re-saw 13" to 14" wide planks. So I know what you were dealing with. But you managed very well. I have to keep watching to see how it turns out. I know I won't be disappointed either. :thumb:

 

[archbuilder]

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks GM! I have been fighting the computer tonight and had to post the pics from my phone!

Anyhow I made the piece that goes between the seat and covers up the front of the dog house. There wasn't a good way to make the carpet look neat around the hinges, so I covered them up. This filler will give me a good place to stop the carpet and will be quick release when the dog house needs to be open. I think I can fit a couple of cup holders in the top of the center section. I have been thinking about having it covered in vinyl over some thin foam or just putting carpet over it. Any suggestions

I also glued down the angles that will secure the seat bases with west system six-10. I will drill holes through them into the sides of the seat frames later on. The nice thing about this method, is that there are NO holes in that deck I just spent so much time replacing!

 

[jakedaawg]

Why not put carpet down and hinges on top of carpet? It is pretty commonly done that way.

 

[archbuilder]

Jake, I need to take a pic, but the hinges are on top of some 3/4" high spacers. I made them out of Seacast and glued them to the deck, then tabbed them in. The screws for the hinges screw into the seacast, not through the deck. Again, staying with my method of not putting holes in the deck. So it would be sort of like trying to run the carpet over a speed bump and making it look nice.....not going to happen lol. I'll take a pick of the hing mount points tomorrow.

 

[sphelps]

. I made them out of Seacast and glued them to the deck, .

Ahh good ol smurf bisquits .... They do come in handy ...

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Is that regular angle iron you used for the seat base attachment points? It almost looks like a fiber rail. I need to do the same sort of thing for my bench seat base in the Chap. Like you I DO NOT want to drill holes in my new deck. Just looking for a little more detail on what you did there.

 

[archbuilder]

Chuck, that is a fiberglass angle, 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" An 1/8" thick one would work fine, but all I kept finding in 10' was the 1/4" I used this same detail in my other boat and it works great!

The brownies are handy Sam, I may used some for hard point to anchor tank and batteries.