erikgreen
Captain
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2007
- Messages
- 3,105
Hey guys -
I haven't started a lot of threads here recently, but I had a minute free today and I thought I'd start typing something new.
My Sea Ray SRV210, which I bought with a bad engine three years ago, did a lot of work on to replace rotten wood two winters ago, and which has generally been running well since (with the exception of blowing the lower gears and one running out of gas incident) is going to get a re-fit this winter.
Right now I'm concerned about the transom. It was a little wet but not rotting yet two years ago, and since then it's had holes drilled in it that didn't get sealed (I had some helpers working with me) and I'm sure it hasn't dried out.
So this winter a new transom is going to go in. As a secondary goal I want to make it much easier to reach the engine parts for service and repair... right now you have to shove your arm through a 3 inch crack to reach all the plugs, it's almost impossible to reach the transom plate and motor mount bolts there, and generally things aren't as neat as they could be regarding wiring, hydraulics, etc.
So, the first step is to get the boat into the shop. I have an attached heated garage that I use for winter work. To fit this boat in it I have to do a number of things.
1) Get the boat off the trailer and onto a cradle/dolly
2) Remove the drive and engine (no room to do this inside)
3) Remove the windshield (too tall to fit)
4) Remove the fuel tank (need the space empty)
5) Remove 2x trim boards from the garage door to gain 2 more inches clearance
6) Dolly the boat hull inside.
Once all that's done I'll add some stands to support the hull properly, level the boat, and start the tear-down. Steps planned at this point:
1) Remove all transom gear, mechanical/electrical/plumbing
2) Remove/cut off part of the top cap and interior fiberglass in the rear of the boat... there's a shelf overhanging the rear deck and engine that I want to be gone/removable for better access.
3) Measure carefully the engine mounts, deck height, stringer locations, etc for later replacement
4) Remove the deck, motor mounts, transom, pretty much everything aft of the fuel tank bay.
5) Grind the fiberglass, then fabricate and install a new plywood transom.
After that it'll be time to get creative, making motor mounts and arranging an aft deck that drains well but still lets me have access to the engine via removable panels. I'm thinking instead of wooden motor mounts that steel might be good, so I can reach under/through them. Ideally I want to be able to pull out a couple deck panels and the back cap and be able to reach any part of the engine (within reason).
Once that's done I'll re-work the aft cap for removable storage space, maybe a shelf or mount for the hydraulic pumps (to get them off the deck), a second battery, we'll see what else.
I'll update this thread as the work progresses. I'm guessing my first update will be a couple weeks from now, but who knows.
Erik
PS: Forehead smacking moment for this post: On pulling the engine I found out that one spark plug was loose enough to wobble in my fingers. So I've been running a V7 engine all summer and didn't notice. No wonder idle was rough.
I haven't started a lot of threads here recently, but I had a minute free today and I thought I'd start typing something new.
My Sea Ray SRV210, which I bought with a bad engine three years ago, did a lot of work on to replace rotten wood two winters ago, and which has generally been running well since (with the exception of blowing the lower gears and one running out of gas incident) is going to get a re-fit this winter.
Right now I'm concerned about the transom. It was a little wet but not rotting yet two years ago, and since then it's had holes drilled in it that didn't get sealed (I had some helpers working with me) and I'm sure it hasn't dried out.
So this winter a new transom is going to go in. As a secondary goal I want to make it much easier to reach the engine parts for service and repair... right now you have to shove your arm through a 3 inch crack to reach all the plugs, it's almost impossible to reach the transom plate and motor mount bolts there, and generally things aren't as neat as they could be regarding wiring, hydraulics, etc.
So, the first step is to get the boat into the shop. I have an attached heated garage that I use for winter work. To fit this boat in it I have to do a number of things.
1) Get the boat off the trailer and onto a cradle/dolly
2) Remove the drive and engine (no room to do this inside)
3) Remove the windshield (too tall to fit)
4) Remove the fuel tank (need the space empty)
5) Remove 2x trim boards from the garage door to gain 2 more inches clearance
6) Dolly the boat hull inside.
Once all that's done I'll add some stands to support the hull properly, level the boat, and start the tear-down. Steps planned at this point:
1) Remove all transom gear, mechanical/electrical/plumbing
2) Remove/cut off part of the top cap and interior fiberglass in the rear of the boat... there's a shelf overhanging the rear deck and engine that I want to be gone/removable for better access.
3) Measure carefully the engine mounts, deck height, stringer locations, etc for later replacement
4) Remove the deck, motor mounts, transom, pretty much everything aft of the fuel tank bay.
5) Grind the fiberglass, then fabricate and install a new plywood transom.
After that it'll be time to get creative, making motor mounts and arranging an aft deck that drains well but still lets me have access to the engine via removable panels. I'm thinking instead of wooden motor mounts that steel might be good, so I can reach under/through them. Ideally I want to be able to pull out a couple deck panels and the back cap and be able to reach any part of the engine (within reason).
Once that's done I'll re-work the aft cap for removable storage space, maybe a shelf or mount for the hydraulic pumps (to get them off the deck), a second battery, we'll see what else.
I'll update this thread as the work progresses. I'm guessing my first update will be a couple weeks from now, but who knows.
Erik
PS: Forehead smacking moment for this post: On pulling the engine I found out that one spark plug was loose enough to wobble in my fingers. So I've been running a V7 engine all summer and didn't notice. No wonder idle was rough.