Wood substitute? Something new?

reelfishin

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Mar 19, 2007
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Let me start by saying that I began today looking for a substitute for the 1/2" MDO bench seat tops in my Grumman boat. Someone suggested that since it's only an 18" span, maybe Starboard would be an option, I agreed and drove over to the building supply who used to carry Starboard, but what I found might be a far better option. First, I was told that Starboard was no longer sold there, which pretty much had me headed for the door, but when a began to explain what I needed it for, a sale rep there handed me a sample of something new. It was a 3/4" cut of PVC panel, it's made by Certainteed, the insulation and trim people. It looks like wood on the face sides, but the side view looks more like dense foam. What came to mind was the more modern composite decking used in some higher end boats, I remember seeing something similar at a recent boat show. I took one sample home, a piece about the size of 8" long 1x4, and did some research online as well as read over the data sheet they had there for it. It compares to wood in load rating and strength with only slightly more deflection rating over larger expanses. For instance, a 4' long board cut from this stuff would be slightly more flexible than the equal cut of plywood or solid board. Weight wise, it's about 6% lighter, meaning that if it took using a thicker panel to regain any needed strength, no weight would likely be added.
It is called cellular PVC panel. It is not the foam like stuff that Home Depo sells and is far lighter per length. A deck screw buried into it seats much like wood, not pulling through and popping out the other side like the fake wood decking material from HD.
Cost wise, it's about double the cost of the same nominal marine ply.
It mills and drills like wood, but has no grain, therefore no directional strength preference. With no fiber structure, I would not think it a good choice for a transom, but I'm thinking that it may be a good choice for decks, seating and other interior areas where would is normally used.
It won't rot, it won't split, and it's supposed to be highly UV resistant. It's intended to be used unpainted and can be milled the same as wood if used as trim, it comes in nominal sizes and sheets both smooth and wood textured.

What I am thinking is to use the 3/4" for my bench seat tops, it will no doubt be plenty strong, permanent, and by far longer lasting than the original 1/2" MDO. The span is only 16.5", so it will no doubt hold up to that task.

I am seriously thinking of trying to use it for a couple of smaller transoms, on small aluminum boats that run less than 25 hp motors. It would no doubt be more than strong enough compared to the 8" tall by 54" span of plywood that's in there now. I don't think that it would be an option for a larger boat, where major horsepower was a factor, and I don't think it would take well to laminating two panels together. I think if I do try it as a transom panel in a small boat, I'll attach an aluminum clamp panel where the motor clamps sit.
I did take one of the samples and clamp down a trolling motor to it, its harder than wood and it leaves no impression, but I would think that once the smooth surface was worn through, it may loose its surface strength. It does crush in a vise, but it don't crumble, it reacted mush like wood to pressure. It also seems to hold self tapping screws very much the same as wood. I drilled a suitable hole, ran in a 1/4" lag bolt to the point of penetration, and tried to pull it out like a nail, and that wasn't going to happen using only a claw hammer as my pry bar, I then tried the same, but this time trying to strip the bolt out in the PVC panel, by using the same screw to secure two pieces together, the screw did strip out but provided normal holding strenth up to the point where I forced it beyond it's required torque.
It does have a far more strength with the outer layer in tact, but even once that layer is punctured, it still retains the fastener. I do not think it's as strong near it's edges as wood would be, but it would no doubt make a perfect boat deck so long as the stringers were not overly far apart. I am seriously thinking of doing my deck in my one aluminum boat with it but my stringers are less than 15" apart. It would no doubt span that area without any noticeable flex.

The best way to describe this stuff is that a piece in hand, about the size of a 1x4" board about two foot long shows no flex by arm or by hand, and your eyes closed impression is the same as wood in touch and weight. A 6' long cut of the 3/4" panel about 12" wide showed a good amount of flex, probably equal to a length of 5/8" plywood of the same length. I could not snap the 1x4 length by hand, nor could I break it by hand by wedging one end in a vise, but I could stomp it in two over a curb, where it snapped with about half the effort as it's equal cut in plywood would have.
I would venture to guess that a double thickness of 3/4" glued or mechanically fastened together and cut into a transom panel for my 14' aluminum boat would not exhibit any noticeable flex by any manual force.
It's not anything like the artificial decking sold at the big box stores, it's the closest thing to wood I've seen yet and its far cheaper than Starboard, and far lighter and far more rigid.
I have a few 3/4" pieces of Starboard, and it's weakess points are weight and flex, along with edge breakage. This stuff takes care of at least two of those problems, and is probably twice as less likely to break on the edges as Starboard if struck.
I am even considering maybe using the thinner version but really don't see where there would be any real advantage since it wouldn't be a great weight savings.

Has anyone any experience with this material?

Here's some pics of the sample:

http://i43.tinypic.com/slhaut.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2j4r21l.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/34zexck.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/sv3qjb.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/2u4sr36.jpg
 

maxum247

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

Sounds interesting, call the toll free number and see what the company has to say about the product for the application your considering.

max!
 

reelfishin

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Mar 19, 2007
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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

The impression I am getting is that they only consider it as a trim option, not a weight bearing type of panel. It's marketed as an alternative for wood trim, developed for Victorian style home restorations. But from what I see, at least when it comes to small aluminum boats, it looks like the perfect solution to replacing the wood ever 2 or 3 years.
The big pluses I see are that its water proof, easy to clean, lighter than wood, no doubt as strong as wood for such a short span like I am looking to cover, and from what I can see by testing a few samples, its pretty tough stuff.
Yes, it can be destroyed, but not with any method that wouldn't also destroy wood of the same dimension. It's probably not good to use in any serious structrural application but I'd venture to guess if used properly, it's as strong or stronger than Starboard, and far lighter. (In my opinion, Starboard is far too heavy to use for anything in a boat other then thin wear surfaces, trim or cutting boards). I plan to keep this boat, probably forever, so I don't mind spending a few dollars more now. MDO is a real headache to find here, as is marine ply. Most yards won't even order it or have no access to it anymore. The fact that its treated with arsenic has apparently pretty much made it impossible to get here in NJ. I've tried a dozen or more lumber yards and none carry it or will order it.
The only PT wood available is ACQ, which has reactive issues with metal, especially aluminum from what I'm told. The only other available option is CDX and it's only rated a '1' for outdoor use.

The benches in this boat are open topped and filled with foam, so the 16" or so span should be no problem for this stuff to handle. I'll attach my seat swivels with aluminum reinforcement plates on the back side just in case but I doubt it will really be needed. I took a 24" section of the 1x4" sample and put it across two blocks, unfastened, with four 50lb sand bags on top of a boat seat and swivel, also unfastened. just to see how much the stuff gives over say a 12 hour period, if it takes that, it should have no problem holding me when properly attached and supported on all sides. I can't imagine it not being as strong as 1/2" MDO, and also my thinking is that even the old, wet rotted MDO was still holding my weight on the seat, so this stuff has to be as strong or stronger. It's certainly more permanent.
I will be taking an old 14' V hull I have out back and I'll glue up a double layer for a transom board and give it a try in that boat, at 48" wide, by about 8" tall, I can't see it not holding up to a 10hp or so motor. My only concern is fastener head pull through but from what I see so far, the don't seem to be much of a concern.
 

Mark42

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I've seen those boards at Lowes and thought of boat uses too. Give it a try, I don't see a drawback for the uses you plan.

Parts if the shed in my yard are made from it. Been holding up great for about 7 or 8 years or so.

BTW, does that stuff float?
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I used it to replace the dash panel in my boat. Worked great. Very easy to work with.
 

cbavier

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I too have saw it at Lowe's or Home Depot in 4x8 sheets.
I wonder if it wouldn't work for Decking. Since it's waterproof. One could just carpet over it. I think I would go the one inch thick. Just a thought.
 

reelfishin

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

The sample I have is different than what they sell at HD or Lowes here, the stuff they sell is more like foam in the middle, this stuff is more dense.
I doubt it would float but I'll try it. I've tried the panels from Lowes and HD, and what happens with those is that once the fastener pulls through the surface, there's no remaining strength. Sort of like when you over tighten a drywall screw in wall board and bust through the paper.

My main concern is things like the livewell lids, on this boat, the two half benches have lids, its simply a set of hinges on the surface which screw to the panels, no latch, and no gasket. What ever I use needs to hold the hinges and screws just as well as the MDO ply. One definite benefit would be that the lids won't rot away every year from being wet all the time. Using MDO as a livewell lid was pretty stupid in my opinion. I had considered making the tops in heavier aluminum and painting them to match but even that would add weight, and a metal lid, no matter what color would bake the bait in the sun.
 

reelfishin

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I just checked it's buoyancy, it floats just slightly higher in the water than an equal sized piece of marine ply, but higher than the same size piece of MDO.
 

Mark42

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

Here is some info from Certainteed: (bold text by me)

CertainTeed Restoration Millwork? General Description: CertainTeed Restoration Millwork is used as non-load bearing exterior trim. It can be installed in such areas as cornerboards, soffits, fascias, column wraps, door pilasters, frieze boards, non-load bearing rake boards, architectural millwork, door trim, and window trim. It is suitable for residential and light commercial applications.
Finishes: Restoration Millwork comes in Natural White and does not require painting for protection. Painting is possible with 100% acrylic latex paint with an LRV (light reflective value) of 55 or higher. Please refer to the Installation
Guidelines for complete details.
Surface Patterns: Smooth/Smooth and Woodgrain TrueTexture?/Smooth
Trimboard and Sheet Sizes: Restoration Millwork Trimboards are available in nominal widths of 4 inches to 16 inches and nominal thickness of 5/8, 4/4, 5/4 inches. Restoration Millwork Sheets are available in 4-foot widths and in lengths of 8, 10, 12, 18, and 20 feet, with actual thickness of 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1 inch. Restoration Millwork Beadboards are 1/2-inch thick by 5-1/2 inches wide by 18 feet long. Restoration Millwork Cornerboards are available
in a nominal thickness of 5/4 inches and nominal 4-inch and 6-inch outside corner sizes. Lengths available are 10, 12, 18, and 20 feet, and vary by product. Specialty Profile Sizes: Provide the following Restoration Millwork Specialty profiles:
Composition: The product is a cellular PVC formulation.

Fire Resistance Characteristics: Restoration Millwork products have a flame spread index (FSI) of less than 25 when
tested in accordance with ASTM 84, which is a Class A (Class 1) Flame Spread Classification.
Installation: Restoration Millwork products shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer?s published installation instructions. Handle and store product according to CertainTeed recommendations.
Methods: Complete installation recommendations are available from the manufacturer. Fasteners such as nails and screws shall be stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized. Fasteners shall be approved box nails or finish wood screws and shall be designed for wood trim and wood siding with a thinner shank. Nails shall have blunt points and full-rounded heads. The fasteners shall be long enough to penetrate the solid wood substrate a minimum of 1-1/2 inches. The fasteners located at board ends shall be placed no more than 3/4 inches from the end of the board.
Precautions: Restoration Millwork products are not for use in load-bearing applications, but may be used in spanned applications such as ceilings and soffits.
Building Codes: Current data on building code requirements and product compliance may be obtained from CertainTeed. Installation must comply with the requirements of all applicable local, state and national code jurisdictions.
Warranty: CertainTeed warrants to the original property owner/consumer that, when subject to normal and proper use, Restoration Millwork will be free from manufacturing defects for the 25-year period from date of installation. See Restoration Millwork Warranty RM005 for details and limitations.
Technical Services: CertainTeed maintains an Architectural Services
staff to assist building professionals with questions regarding CertainTeed
products. Call 800-233-8990 for samples and answers to technical or installation questions.
Specification Sheet
CertainTeed Corporation
P.O. Box 860
Valley Forge, PA 19482
www.certainteed.com
 

Mark42

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

The 3/8" board might be good for epoxying on top of plywood for decks. Should be 100% waterproof. Nice product. Wonder how it would hold up to being walked on?
 

reelfishin

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I think it will be fine for my bench seat tops, even for the livewell covers. My only problem now is finding pop rivets long enough to reach through the 3/4" boards. I'd like to find some with larger heads and all aluminum. I have also thought about hinging all the panels, if for no other reason than for access to the seat bolts. I could use long stainless or aluminum piano hinges full length.
The two full length benches are foam filled, they hold two huge drop in poly styrene blocks. I could put a panel in and make use of some storage space there, the blocks are about 3" from the top or so. Even that little bit of space would allow some storage even if it's only a few Plano clear tackle boxes.
I would have to make sure that the opening side though is well secured to maintain the structural integrity. I'm not sure how much the benches add to the boats strength since with the riveted top panels, they form rather rigid boxes.
 

redfury

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

Interesting. Since's it's made of PVC, you can glue it together and have a strong bond. I can see all sorts of boat uses, the ways of hatches, and boat benches, livewells. I like the idea of it used as a livewell material because it will have some level of insulation to it vs. one made strictly out of aluminum or fiberglass.
 

reelfishin

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

Interesting. Since's it's made of PVC, you can glue it together and have a strong bond. I can see all sorts of boat uses, the ways of hatches, and boat benches, livewells. I like the idea of it used as a livewell material because it will have some level of insulation to it vs. one made strictly out of aluminum or fiberglass.

I suppose you could glue it with regular PVC cement, even laminate multiple layers. Good point about the insulating properties as well.
I was thinking that it would be a lot cooler to sit on in the hot sun than dark brown MDO ply.
I've not been able to snap this stuff with load and it really don't flex much unless cut in a long section. I would venture to guess that it would do well as the main floor in a boat, even though they don't consider it a structural product. In a small aluminum boat, the deck doesn't span a very large area, so it wouldn't have very much load on it. It would also make the boat completely rain resistant and much easier to clean. The weight listed for a 4x8' sheet of 3/4" is 60 lbs, which is only slightly more than a sheet of 1/2" marine ply, (About 57 lbs). In my boat, I'd need just over a sheet to do the whole boat, including the seat tops. My floors can be replaced without removing anything else from the boat, so if it don't work, I'm not out much labor. My thinking is that in a boat like this, there's never more than 16" at best of free span under the deck, plus, you don't spend much time standing, and there's no doubt in my mind that this stuff is stronger than 1/2" plywood when it comes to deflection when stood on. A 3/4" x 4" x 24" piece will hold my weight when placed between two concrete blocks, that's 300lbs over about an 18" span. I wouldn't want to jump on it but it in a secured span or sheet, it would no doubt be far stronger.

As far as the the stuff being slick, I could carpet it, paint it with grip paint, or put down vinyl, with no worry about held moisture rotting the deck.

Right now, my boat has 1/2" MDO covered in Nautolex, its still solid but I'm not a big fan of Nautolex, and it's no doubt not as strong as it was new after all these years. If it starts to show soft spots, I may just try the PVC panel for a new deck.

Just another point too, since this stuff floats, I figured I'd do some comparisons, to my surprise, 3/4" marine ply didn't float. I cut a clean piece from an old transom I had removed, a nice clean and dry section the same size as the sample PVC I tried, and it sank to the bottom of the bucket, as did a sample of 1/2" MDO, but the MDO was old and a bit wet looking.

Plain CDX ply floats, but it barely stays on the surface, its probably close to being neutrally buoyant. To me, that's another advantage to the cellular PVC board.

The bottom line the way I see it is that for an aluminum boat, or any boat where the deck isn't an integral part of the hull, its most likely more than strong enough so long as it's supported, its lighter than comparable sized wood, it will no doubt act as an insulator and reflector of heat, and can be cut and handled just like wood. It eliminates any need for any further water proofing, it eliminates the need for epoxy or poly resin and glass to protect plywood, and you could cover it as you like with no concerns of rot.

The only issue I see is that I'd use the thicker version in all applications for strength or to prevent sag, which may mean some spacing issues and longer fasteners.

I probably wouldn't mount pedestals to it, without some sort of reinforcement, to take any direct load.

Another thought on carpeting over this stuff, it would no doubt only lengthen it's life span since it would shield it from any UV exposure.
 

redfury

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I bet it would be well suited to be used to make side panels with! Much nicer than using plywood, and when finished with vinyl, the vinyl would wear out before the backing board! Not to mention being able to fashion storage, etc and not have to worry about moisture getting in there, and it would be much easier to clean any mildew that might form off of it to boot!

I'm starting to see a lot of potential uses for this stuff. Now, where do they carry this stuff in MN!
 

Mark42

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I can see it being great for seating, like benches and lounges that just take a throw cushion. So they would look nice even with the cushions gone. Just use a 1/2 or 3/4" round over bit in a router and it should come out with a nice shape.
 

reelfishin

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

I can see it being great for seating, like benches and lounges that just take a throw cushion. So they would look nice even with the cushions gone. Just use a 1/2 or 3/4" round over bit in a router and it should come out with a nice shape.

I was thinking the same thing, I'll take a 1/4" or 1/2" radius bit and run it down the front and rear edges.

I'm thinking it might do some to dampen sound too, being a cellular product, it may absorb some noise as well.

I removed all the old MDO seat tops today, it came out easy, all I had to do was drill out about two dozen rivets. I weighed the four pieces, I got 67 pounds for just the four bench tops. Their wet and rotted on the edges but not that wet. Considering that the PVC is only 60lbs per full sheet, and I'll be using far less than a sheet for the bench tops, I will no doubt be dropping some weight as well.

I need to find some 3/16" aluminum pop rivets with a 3/4" reach or better, any ideas? I've struck out with all my local and normal mail order sources.
The longest anyone seems to carry is a true 3/4" long, but I need something closer to 1" long to handle 3/4" material plus the .075" gauge aluminum bench lip. (Yep, that's .75", this boat is built like a tank).

I'm seriously considering trying this stuff as my transom board in my smaller 14' boat, that boat will probably never see anything but a big trolling motor or at best a 10 hp gas motor. I'd put an aluminum clamping plate where the motor attaches and glue the two layers together with PVC cement.
The wood in there now is only about 6" tall by about 48" wide. I can't see it not working for that boat, after all, it's been doing fine with the well worn original wood which has no doubt seen better days.

I'll do the seat tops first, that first sheet will give me enough to do the transom in the second boat as well. I've been debating trying it as the transom material in the my Grumman, but that boat is rated for up to a 25 hp motor, and will most likely get a new 20 hp Yamaha 4 stroke hung on it, so I'm not sure I want to chance it on that one. I have little doubt the stuff is rigid enough for the 15hp on it now, but my concern is over time.
 

lowkee

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

When tearing up the deck in my bowrider yesterday, I came across this as the entire center of the decking:

3355173506_5db85757a4.jpg


It was the only section of the deck which had no rot and was rock solid, even being 1/2" material. It felt a bit heavier than plywood, though, but seeing as it could replace 3/4" plywood, that would likely even out.

It resembles styrofoam balloons encased in what appears to be hard plastic with a top layer of fiberglass netting.
 

redfury

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

Ah composites, you gotta love 'em! I suppose the weaving was for span strength and the balloons were to reduce overall weight, with the core compromising the majority of the strength.

As far as using the other stuff on a lightweight boat transom, I think the real purpose for the board is to distribute the clamping forces more evenly across the aluminum to avoid warping with the strength of the wood being more involved in its ability to avoid crushing.
 

Mark42

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Re: Wood substitute? Something new?

First time I've ever seen a member find that stuff in their Bayliner. How strong was it? Did it give under foot? Hard to break?
 
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