Inboard outboard air cooled engine

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Can you give me a little time to wrap my brain around that idea, and get back to you on that? Kid's have been wound up tight today, so I tackled a little less demanding project out in the garage.

In your shift rod pic you have it under rod out of box. I mean flip shift rod over and put it above. And attach with said eye bolt and and figure fulcrum point on a piece of angle iron on top side of box.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

How about putting a peace of angle iron on top of the box for your shifter hinge point. Flip the shift rod over and bolt it above with short bend pointing down. Slip a long threaded eye bolt over rod coming out of box and attach threaded portion to short bend. When you pull shifter up it will push rod from box down. Hinge point will regulate distance of travel of shift knob verses distance of travel required by L U rod to reach gear. Clear?

Ok! LD I got it, sounds good Ill give it a shot tonight after I get the ole garage warmed up! Kinda cold out there!

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ok! LD I got it, sounds good Ill give it a shot tonight after I get the ole garage warmed up! Kinda cold out there!

Yeh ! here it is -21C thats 3 or 4 above F and I am running out of wood in my shop got enough for 1 more month.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I'm back again with good news I think! Ok! I know the shifter was supposed to go the way we we had talked about, but! Well I tried this and I tried that. And no matter what angle I tried I just didn't have the right part or parts, so I was about to pack it in as a failure for tonight. Then I got my eye on the lever that engages the blades on the riding mower that I am useing for parts and picked it up, so I said why not! So I walked over and gave it a try, it fit the shifter shaft perfectly. Now I'm excited that the lever might work, so I pondered the possibility for a few minutes and this is what came of it. A little bending from a 45 - 90 dergree, simple and neat! Works like a champ so far! Clean crisp shifts every time and it's out of the way to boot! I know I will get a little back lash about not having a detent mounted on the box. I don't beleive it will need one (been wrong before) if it does I can add it after my first test run, for now I'm happy with it! Here are a couple of pictures of the shift handle I came up with!

I have the option of shortning the shift handle in the third picture and using it if the current handle doesn't work or I just want to change the look once in awhile. Just slip the black rubber handle off the current shift handle slide the shortened handle with the round black knob in it's place. Acessories for the boat! You gotta love it!

 

[DJ]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I've been lurking and watching.

It looks to me like that exhaust may cause some problems like melting the transom. It's going to get pretty hot with the engine under a constant load.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I've been lurking and watching.

It looks to me like that exhaust may cause some problems like melting the transom. It's going to get pretty hot with the engine under a constant load.

I may have a plan that will take care of that. Here's what I'm thinking! Cut out as though cutting out for an outboard, but make it small. Maybe 6 inches wide by maybe 4 inches deep. And angle each side like the shape of a "W" that will give the exhausht good clearance and if I need to change it down the road it should be pretty easy to repair.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I'm back again with good news I think! Ok! I know the shifter was supposed to go the way we we had talked about, but! Well I tried this and I tried that. And no matter what angle I tried I just didn't have the right part or parts, so I was about to pack it in as a failure for tonight. Then I got my eye on the lever that engages the blades on the riding mower that I am useing for parts and picked it up, so I said why not! So I walked over and gave it a try, it fit the shifter shaft perfectly. Now I'm excited that the lever might work, so I pondered the possibility for a few minutes and this is what came of it. A little bending from a 45 - 90 dergree, simple and neat! Works like a champ so far! Clean crisp shifts every time and it's out of the way to boot! I know I will get a little back lash about not having a detent mounted on the box. I don't beleive it will need one (been wrong before) if it does I can add it after my first test run, for now I'm happy with it! Here are a couple of pictures of the shift handle I came up with!

I have the option of shortning the shift handle in the third picture and using it if the current handle doesn't work or I just want to change the look once in awhile. Just slip the black rubber handle off the current shift handle slide the shortened handle with the round black knob in it's place. Acessories for the boat! You gotta love it!

Yep! If it works don't fix it. I don,t know where the helm is going to be. How far do you have to reach back to shift?

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I've been lurking and watching.

It looks to me like that exhaust may cause some problems like melting the transom. It's going to get pretty hot with the engine under a constant load.

Yup! If you wired a roast to it and covered it with aluminum foil you could have a hot beef sandwich while your fishing.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Yep! If it works don't fix it. I don,t know where the helm is going to be. How far do you have to reach back to shift?

If all comes together as planned, I'll be able to reach the key, throttle and the gear shift from sitting position quite comfortably. Reach down by my left leg for the key and reach just to my side for the shift! The throttle is up a little high, I would like to get down on the front of the seat with the key, we'll have to see what happens. At any rate to get the key and throttle in the front of the seat I'd have to burrow from the back to the front side of the seat to run wiring and throttle cable.

In this picture you can see the little panel in the front of the seat, this is where I would like to mount the key and throttle.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Yup! If you wired a roast to it and covered it with aluminum foil you could have a hot beef sandwich while your fishing.

Didn't think about that! Maybe I better see about mounting a small wire grill up there on top of the exhausht pipe.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I've been lurking and watching.

It looks to me like that exhaust may cause some problems like melting the transom. It's going to get pretty hot with the engine under a constant load.

Here's a few pictures of what I came up with for the exhaust! Will need to make a sheild to go around the opening to help keep the water out, if it's that rough I won't be out there anyway! Also modified the air cleaner, figured if I left it, it would melt away so I cut it to make a better looking job. Gotta figure a cover for it that can breath. Think I know what to do there.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey, been out of town all day, I see a lot of good stuff has got done! As far as the exhaust running thru the hull, I think a 2" pipe nipple slipped into, & sealed to the hull as a sleeve, is enough to keep the heat off the transom, because, most of the heat is going out the exhaust, & there will be an air space beteen the exhasut pipe, & sleeve, to keep air circulating.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I don't think it was necessary to chop away that much of the transom, I just didn't think there would be that much heat, oh well.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I don't think it was necessary to chop away that much of the transom, I just didn't think there would be that much heat, oh well.

I can always dress it up a little if I need to. As far as the strength of the stern, it's solid. It was only about an inch thick when I got the boat. I built it up to about 2 1/4 inches so its strong even with it cut out like that.

Looking back on it I probably should have waited to cut the stern after getting it going, so I could see what the heat would be like there. But that's creating some things come out right the first time and some just come out. If that's the worst problem I have on this build I'll be greatful.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I can always dress it up a little if I need to. As far as the strength of the stern, it's solid. It was only about an inch thick when I got the boat. I built it up to about 2 1/4 inches so its strong even with it cut out like that.

Looking back on it I probably should have waited to cut the stern after getting it going, so I could see what the heat would be like there. But that's creating some things come out right the first time and some just come out. If that's the worst problem I have on this build I'll be greatful.

That's what I would have done, wait, & see, once it all came together if, & where, the problems may have developed, then work them out at that time. I guess I'm a bit more hesitant to take chances, my thinking is measure twice, or more, (whatevers needed) then cut once. Anyway, I'm confused, what, if anything, are you gonna do with it now? put the exhausr pipe thru a perforated plate front, & back, screwed to the boat to hold it in place, and get air flow?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

That's what I would have done, wait, & see, once it all came together if, & where, the problems may have developed, then work them out at that time. I guess I'm a bit more hesitant to take chances, my thinking is measure twice, or more, (whatevers needed) then cut once. Anyway, I'm confused, what, if anything, are you gonna do with it now? put the exhausr pipe thru a perforated plate front, & back, screwed to the boat to hold it in place, and get air flow?

I'd like to make a cap out of thin aluminum the same shape as the opening that can be fastened to the stern with screws. Would a sign work or is that the wrong type material? I like the shape, I think it will look good out of aluminum, drill an oversize hole, say 1/2 larger than pipe all the way round or run a pipe thru like you mentioned before. I don't know why but I think there's a chance this may work to dissapate the heat rapidly. Whatta you think?

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I'd like to make a cap out of thin aluminum the same shape as the opening that can be fastened to the stern with screws. Would a sign work or is that the wrong type material? I like the shape, I think it will look good out of aluminum, drill an oversize hole, say 1/2 larger than pipe all the way round or run a pipe thru like you mentioned before. I don't know why but I think there's a chance this may work to dissapate the heat rapidly. Whatta you think?

I think a piece of expanded metal or heavy screen with a hole in the centre tight to the pipe to help hold it steady the air holes in the screen will help get rid of the heat before it reaches the transom material. Any solid material will just transfer the heat faster . the more air flow the better.

 

[DJ]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I'd like to make a cap out of thin aluminum the same shape as the opening that can be fastened to the stern with screws. Would a sign work or is that the wrong type material? I like the shape, I think it will look good out of aluminum, drill an oversize hole, say 1/2 larger than pipe all the way round or run a pipe thru like you mentioned before. I don't know why but I think there's a chance this may work to dissapate the heat rapidly. Whatta you think?

Much better. As long as it has a good air supply around it, it should be OK.

That pipe is going to mighty hot. Some warning labels may be in order.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Sorry, been out, & busy all day, just got in,,, Home Depot, & hardware stores, sell small aluminum sheets, that have a hollow pattern cut in them like lattice, or, perforated speaker grill material, that you can bend around to form a cap to fasten to the transom then run the pipe thru that, it will do 2 things, be a support for the pipe, and be ventilated to help cool things off, & dissipate heat., But you still need a plate to cover the exposed fiberglass, & wood, sandwich material of the transom undermeath, first I think. So, as you see this gives you extra work rather then just putting a metal sleeve in the hole, around the exhaust pipe as you originally had it.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Buy a small sheet of Galvinized sheet, or aluminum flashing, (gutter section store) to do the V. Then a angle iron bed rail across the whole back...nice and neat..?