winterizing my i/o chaparral

[UncleWillie]

I like that idea of filling with antifreeze and then draining, how can I do this though, 5 gal bucket filled with a hose running to muffs, or does it need water pressure? Also what's this pink antifreeze you're referring to?

The bucket and hose method to the Muffs works just fine.
This method gets very BAD Reviews when done improperly.
It is imperative that the engine has been drained before flushing.

I place a plastic ball valve on the end of a short piece of garden hose.
Prime the hose and then close the valve to hold the prime while you attach it to the muffs.
Priming by mouth suction is doable. Propylene Glycol (PG) is a major ingredient in Nyquil and tastes about the same.
As long as you ingest less than a Pint, is harmless. It just tastes bad. (Unless you Like Nyquil!)

Place the bucket up high on the back of the boat and run the hose down to the muffs.
When ready to flush, open the valve and then start the engine. Idle speed Only!
The water pump's impeller will suck the Antifreeze into the engine at an impressive rate.

You will need about 6 gallons of Antifreeze.
A bucket will hold about 4 gallons reasonably.
Once the engine is started, dump the other 2 gallons into the bucket quickly.
Start with a cold engine as you will not get any cooling of the exhaust until about 5 gallons have been pumped in. (30-60 Seconds).

After draining, the old antifreeze can be filtered through an old T-Shirt and saved for use next year.
I have antifreeze going on its third use. I added a Gallon of -200 Last year. It will not even form slush at the -5F of my freezer.

PG (Pink) Antifreeze is available at a discount this time of year. A case of 6 gallons can be had for under $20.
Be wary of the antifreeze sold for under $3 a gallon. It is often Alcohol based. Be sure you get PG Antifreeze.
With alcohol Antifreeze, over time, the alcohol evaporates leaving only water. Bad.
With PG Antifreeze, the Water evaporates first, leaving a stronger mix of PG. Very Good!

Where are you located? See instruction below.
If you are expecting temperature well below 0F then the common -50F Antifreeze may not be sufficient.
It is avaliable in -50, -60 -100, and full strength -200F concentrations.

 

[vipertblck]

The main things are stabilizing the fuel, changing the fluids in the engine and drive, fogging the engine (non fuel injected) and draining ALL the water, probe ALL the drains, that Merc single point system would never work here (salt water). I do back fill the engine and manifolds with -100 AF with corrosion inhibitors and the engine has not rusted through yet (26 years old at least half used in salt). In fact this is exactly what the Merc (and also my OMC) manuals tell you to do. You can leave it dry, just get ALL the water out. When I look in the intake manifold when changing a thermostat there is surprisingly little corrosion. So what I'm doing works fine for me.....

where can I get these corrosion inhibitors and hot can I get them into my engine?

 

[vipertblck]

The bucket and hose method to the Muffs works just fine.
This method gets very BAD Reviews when done improperly.
It is imperative that the engine has been drained before flushing.

I place a plastic ball valve on the end of a short piece of garden hose.
Prime the hose and then close the valve to hold the prime while you attach it to the muffs.
Priming by mouth suction is doable. Propylene Glycol (PG) is a major ingredient in Nyquil and tastes about the same.
As long as you ingest less than a Pint, is harmless. It just tastes bad. (Unless you Like Nyquil!)

Place the bucket up high on the back of the boat and run the hose down to the muffs.
When ready to flush, open the valve and then start the engine. Idle speed Only!
The water pump's impeller will suck the Antifreeze into the engine at an impressive rate.

You will need about 6 gallons of Antifreeze.
A bucket will hold about 4 gallons reasonably.
Once the engine is started, dump the other 2 gallons into the bucket quickly.
Start with a cold engine as you will not get any cooling of the exhaust until about 5 gallons have been pumped in. (30-60 Seconds).

After draining, the old antifreeze can be filtered through an old T-Shirt and saved for use next year.
I have antifreeze going on its third use. I added a Gallon of -200 Last year. It will not even form slush at the -5F of my freezer.

PG (Pink) Antifreeze is available at a discount this time of year. A case of 6 gallons can be had for under $20.
Be wary of the antifreeze sold for under $3 a gallon. It is often Alcohol based. Be sure you get PG Antifreeze.
With alcohol Antifreeze, over time, the alcohol evaporates leaving only water. Bad.
With PG Antifreeze, the Water evaporates first, leaving a stronger mix of PG. Very Good!

Where are you located? See instruction below.
If you are expecting temperature well below 0F then the common -50F Antifreeze may not be sufficient.
It is avaliable in -50, -60 -100, and full strength -200F concentrations.

I'm northern Illinois, so if this winter is anything like last, it'll be -20's. boat will be kept indoors with heat maintained above freezing, I just want to be cautious. I think I like the idea of running antifreeze to coat the whole inside with some oily substance, then drain it. Or like lou c said with the corrosion inhibitors....

 

[UncleWillie]

I am in northern Ohio so we get your weather, just a day later.
-50 mix should be OK the first year. It will get diluted a little with the water left in the block after draining.
Add a gallon of -200 next year to strengthen the mix. Or do it this year if you are really worried.
One gallon of -200 will cost as much as 4 gallons of -50. It is 100% Propylene Glycol $$$ and is nearly a syrup.

It is easy to test your antifreeze by placing a sample in a Plastic bottle in the freezer.
-50 will freeze completely to slush. It should still be possible to stick a butter knife into it.
Is will have the strength of a snow ball, but NOT anywhere near as hard as ice.
If mixed with the -200 the sample will remain 100% liquid.

 

[vipertblck]

I think i'll go with the method of running the boat, getting the stabil al mixed in the full tank of fuel and engine warmed up, then drain it and remove plugs in block and manifold and poke around to ensure all silt of gone and drained. Then put plugs back in, fill block with antifreeze from big hose off water pump, also fill manifold with antifreeze(i'll have to look at it to see where I can fill it). then put muffs on with 5 gal buck feeding them filled with antifreeze, run engine for a min or until antifreeze is spitting out the back, shut down, and drain block and manifold again. I think I like this way best because any residual water will be mixed with the antifreeze, as well as all the insides of my ourdrive and engine are coated with antifreeze so their oil up a bit.

sound alright?

 

[bruceb58]

If you are doing this because of corrosion, its pretty much a waste of time if you are a fresh water boater.

 

[UncleWillie]

I think i'll go with the method of running the boat, getting the Stabil al mixed in the full tank of fuel and engine warmed up, then drain it and remove plugs in block and manifold and poke around to ensure all silt of gone and drained. Then put plugs back in, fill block with antifreeze from big hose off water pump, also fill manifold with antifreeze(i'll have to look at it to see where I can fill it). then put muffs on with 5 gal buck feeding them filled with antifreeze, run engine for a min or until antifreeze is spitting out the back, shut down, and drain block and manifold again. I think I like this way best because any residual water will be mixed with the antifreeze, as well as all the insides of my outdrive and engine are coated with antifreeze so their oil up a bit. Sound alright?

Sounds good to me. :joyous:
Save the antifreeze and save the environment and your wallet.
Anything that has any effect on corrosion is never a waste of time.

 

[vipertblck]

i can just get the regular green stuff from the auto parts store can't i....as long as it's the good -50 at least?

 

[UncleWillie]

i can just get the regular green stuff from the auto parts store can't i....as long as it's the good -50 at least?

Absolutely NOT!!!

The Automotive Antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol (EG). It has no business anywhere around a Boat.
It is considered Toxic Waste and is illegal to disposed of down the drain or sewer, and should never enter any water system.

You want a Propylene Glycol (PG) based antifreeze.
It will be Pink, or Purple, or Blue depending on the strength.

It is used in may cosmetics and medicines. It is what gives Nyquil its distinctive (Nasty) flavor.
It is safe to ingest as long as you swallow less than a glass full.
Even then it won't kill you or the neighbors pets or local wildlife.

You will find it at Walmart or any local Boating or Sporting goods store.
It will be have the words "Marine", "Boat", "or "RV" on the label.
It will cost $3 to $5 a gallon for the -50F Strength, up to $12 a gallon for the -200F Full Strength product.

Most people just dump it out in the spring. You may see why I save and reuse mine.

Be sure to read the label and get the PG based product.
These is often an Alcohol based product right next to it for a few dollars cheaper. Don't buy it!

 

[vipertblck]

Absolutely NOT!!!

The Automotive Antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol (EG). It has no business anywhere around a Boat.
It is considered Toxic Waste and is illegal to disposed of down the drain or sewer, and should never enter any water system.

You want a Propylene Glycol (PG) based antifreeze.
It will be Pink, or Purple, or Blue depending on the strength.

It is used in may cosmetics and medicines. It is what gives Nyquil its distinctive (Nasty) flavor.
It is safe to ingest as long as you swallow less than a glass full.
Even then it won't kill you or the neighbors pets or local wildlife.

You will find it at Walmart or any local Boating or Sporting goods store.
It will be have the words "Marine", "Boat", "or "RV" on the label.
It will cost $3 to $5 a gallon for the -50F Strength, up to $12 a gallon for the -200F Full Strength product.

Most people just dump it out in the spring. You may see why I save and reuse mine.

Be sure to read the label and get the PG based product.
These is often an Alcohol based product right next to it for a few dollars cheaper. Don't buy it!

ok gotcha. i thought i read prior in this post that the pink stuff was bad, maybe it was the alcohol based one or the -50 they were referring to. i'll be sure to get the propylene glycol based one, -50 should be good as the barn is maintained above freezing all winter.

 

[vipertblck]

another things too, what's your guys take on the boat sitting outside this time of year? i ask this because it only has water in the block right now, obviously; tonight is suppose to be a low of 38, but what the weather channel says and what actual temp is at my location are not always the same....it's that time of year where it can get cold at night and then 60-70 during the day; is it ok sitting outside like it is right now? im not ready to winterize it yet as it's for sale for another few weeks and if somebody wants to see it; i wanna be able to start it up and what not.

 

[bruceb58]

LOL...you are selling it and you are going through the whole anti freeze thing because of corrosion? Just drain it!

 

[Bondo]

another things too, what's your guys take on the boat sitting outside this time of year? i ask this because it only has water in the block right now, obviously; tonight is suppose to be a low of 38, but what the weather channel says and what actual temp is at my location are not always the same....it's that time of year where it can get cold at night and then 60-70 during the day; is it ok sitting outside like it is right now? im not ready to winterize it yet as it's for sale for another few weeks and if somebody wants to see it; i wanna be able to start it up and what not.

Ayuh,...... Water freezes at 32°,.....

My Mentor always said it takes 6 hours, at 26° to cause damage to a block,....
I never tested his rule, I drain the block, 'n manifolds, when I hear 30/ 32° forecast,....

 

[UncleWillie]

Ayuh,...... Water freezes at 32°,.....
My Mentor always said it takes 6 hours, at 26° to cause damage to a block,....
I never tested his rule, I drain the block, 'n manifolds, when I hear 30/ 32° forecast,....

Water freezes at 32, but surprisingly, the block of the boat can be at a significantly Lower temperature than the air around it.

The geek in me placed a recording temperature probe through the oil cap of the engine.
The engine was under a trailer cover and inside of an engine cover with a 2 inch cushion on top.
On a clear cloudless night Radiation Cooling has had the block 4 to 6 degrees below the ambient air temperature before midnight.
The air was 35F but the block cooled to 30F. I wouldn't have believed it
If the forecast has Thirty Anything in it, and it is a clear night, you may be at risk.

Point an IR Thermometer at a clear night sky and it can read -50F or colder.
This is the temperature that the upper surfaces of your boat are looking at.

Although not recommended for long term use,
A 40watt light bulb in a trouble light, placed under the engine, can warm the block 20-30 degrees in a pinch.

 

[no704]

My favorite method is: 1) move to Phoenix 2) boat till January 3) do nothing till may

 

[gt2003]

If you are selling the boat ASAP, pay the $150 to have it winterized. You only get one chance to screw that up then your boats value is greatly diminished!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Wow! 37 posts on draining your block!!!!!............................(well, 38 counting mine!)


.........

 

[UncleWillie]

Wow! 37 posts on draining your block!!!!!............................(well, 38 counting mine!)
.........

Oil, Ethanol, and Antifreeze Threads never Die, they just slowly fade away!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Oil, Ethanol, and Antifreeze Threads never Die, they just slowly fade away!

HEY! I resemble that!!!!

 

[vipertblck]

i think we should be good now; went out and drained the block and manifold over the weekend so it's all empty now. put a vacuum on the hoses to suck out any debris that could potentially block them, then blew threw them with light air pressure, then put vacuum on them again. left them hanging downward in case there was any residual water to exit. should be good till I get out there in a month or so to winterize it fully.