Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

[greg82255]

Let me bring everyone up to speed if you weren't following my other thread in this forum.

I am rebuilding my 1986 Mercruiser 260 and turning it into 383 stroker as one of my winter projects. The other thread contains some very useful information for anyone looking to build a 383 - I asked several questions and many experts provided great info, a lot of which I used when selecting parts for my build. I have my block back from the machine shop, and have all of the new parts I am going to need to build the motor. Grad school finally slowed down a little (Thanksgiving break), so I have some time to get to work on the motor. My goal is for this thread to provide some good info on how to build a 383 (not necessarily from me, but from questions I ask and hopefully the experts posting answers!) and provide a detailed parts list of everything I used. I want to provide a list because I searched the forums and could not find a parts list, so hopefully someone else that wants to try this can come across my thread and get some useful information. Anyways, Here goes.

Today I was able to get the block and some of the externals painted. I actually don't have the heads yet (getting them in a week or 2), but I wanted to get the block painted so I could get to building the short block. I used the Mercury Racing Metallic Blue paint - Dupont code B8110A. I'll be building the short block tomorrow. Been watching several DVD's and reading lots of books on how to rebuild the SBC, so I think I am all set for now, but if anyone has any useful suggestions along the way, please feel free to jump in! There will definitely be questions to come.

Here are some pictures of the parts I'm using and the block before and after paint. I have to say, I love that metallic blue...

 

[YZ165]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Looking forward to following/learning from this thread! Looks good!

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Great start Greg.


In case there are "new" readers, here is a link to original thread: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=516357

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I got to work on the short block today. The crank and all the pistons are in - everything went together without any problems, until I got to installing the cam. I put the smaller timing gear on the crank, and as I went to install the cam I grabbed the cam gear to put it on so I could slide the last journal in, I encountered my my first problem, and have my first question.

The gear that my machinist gave me didn't fit. The holes did not line up with the cam - it looks like the hole pattern was slightly larger on the gear than on the cam. I've already emailed the machinist, and I figure he will fix the problem (I paid him $75 for the timing set so he should), but my question is, am I going to need to remove that gear from the crank, or are they all the same? I don't have a gear puller so I will either need to buy one or have him pull the gear. Also, on the off chance that I just get refunded for the timing set and buy my own, does anyone know what timing set will work with my cam? It's a Comp Cams Xtreme Marine CS XM 270HR-12, retro-fit hydraulic roller. I was looking on CPPerformance.com and saw timing sets that will fit all chevy v8 except for factory hydraulic roller, but nothing that fits hydraulic roller.

Here are some pics of the short block so far:

All the pistons in:

The cam gear that doesn't fit:

My home-built hoist:

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

OEM Rollers have a step in them, for the cam retainer, so the bolts had to be moved further toward the center. Retrofit cams typically have the wider flat based pattern. Call Comp to make sure you have a retro cam. Retros typically use a cam button and wear plate because the block is not machined for thrust plate.

While on the phone with Comp, confirm your distributer gear is compatable with cam, and you have a roller cam compatable fuel pump rod.

You should be able to rent a puller at Autozone for just a deposit, if you have to change the whole set out.

PS: like the pistons.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Looks like fun to me....Here ya go have a read http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5445


I dont believe that cam is a retro roller..and as john pointed out

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

looks good, I also second the question on the assembly lube.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Hard to tell by the photos but everything looks "dry". What are you using for an assembly lubricant?

The machinist gave me a tube of Lubriplate 105 assembly grease. I had originally bought Clevite assembly lube but he said to use this instead. I used a lot of it putting everything together, and its white so that might explain why it isn't showing up in the pictures. It's there though, and lots of it. Here's a link to it:
http://www.uneedit.com/p-50592-lubr...k=gdfV22234_a_7c1255_a_7c6774_a_7cL0034_d_094

I dont believe that cam is a retro roller.. and as john pointed out

Maybe it's just the lifters that are retro-fit roller? My machinist seems to really know his stuff so I doubt he would give me the wrong cam (although he did give me a timing chain that didn't fit...). If the cam is factory roller instead of retro-fit is it going to have to go back? I already covered it with oil and covered the distributor drive gear with a grease he gave me. I'll have to get on the phone with Comp Cams tomorrow and give them the part # and see what needs to be done.

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I dont believe that cam is a retro roller..and as john pointed out

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/419/camshaft-breakdown.aspx#RetroFit

You can see the diff in the nose, but also note on the retrofit:

"These cams contain all of the same benefits and limitations as a standard hydraulic roller cam; however they include a specialized base circle to accommodate the taller hydraulic roller lifters in blocks that were factory equipped with a flat tappet valve train set-up."


The picture on comps site of your cam, if not just a representative photo, does show the step.

If comp says it is OK to run, then you will need a roller style top gear.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The machinist gave me a tube of Lubriplate 105 assembly grease. I had originally bought Clevite assembly lube but he said to use this instead. I used a lot of it putting everything together, and its white so that might explain why it isn't showing up in the pictures. It's there though, and lots of it.

Every engine builder has his own preferred methods and opinions always vary ... but that white assembly lube is been around forever. Recommended by all the old timers. I never used it because i always read that it plugged oil filters. The three guys i know that assemble race engines use the red goopy assembly lube on everything and lots of it mixed with oil on the rings.

I would for sure make sure you do a full oil prime of the engine just before start up. Those "books" that i keep recommending you read all cover both of these topics. Your pictures of the short block look pretty dry!

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

If it looks pretty dry, do you recommend I add some oil or more assembly lube? If so how would I do that - just pour it on? I still have plenty of the white lube and I have a full tube of Clevite red assembly lube, and a bunch of engine oil. I certainly don't want any problems during the first start up. I've been reading a few books and watched 2 DVDs on rebuilding a 350 and have been following their suggestions as well as the suggestions from the machinist.

 

[90stingray]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Assembly lube should be on the bearings and bearing surfaces before assembly. Pouring oil over them wouldn't do ya much. If you put plenty on there during assembly, then you are good. But that's the cleanest assembly i have ever seen! Did you plastigauge all the main's and rods? Looking good so far.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I put plenty of assembly lube all over the bearings, bearing surfaces and crank journals before I assembled everything. My machinist told me that too much isn't necessarily a good thing, but I was still very liberal with the journals and bearings. I watched 2 DVDs and watched the builders put assembly lube on the journals and used more than the they did. I also put assembly lube all over the cylinder walls and pistons/rings before I pushed the pistons in, but when I turned the engine over with the socket wrench after putting the pistons in, mostly all of the assembly lube got scraped off the cylinder walls and is sitting on the bottom of the pistons. Is this going to be a problem? Should I pour some oil on the cylinder walls?

I did not use plastic gauge because my machinist had the crank and pistons/rods when he was doing the machine work, and told me that he measured all of the oil clearances for me. He offered to give me a set of plastic gauge but said there is no need for it. He gave me a sheet of paper with all of my main and rod clearances. I believe they were all around .0026-.0029. I actually brought him a set of ARP main cap bolts when I came to pick up the block, and he re-measured all the clearances and swapped out 2 bearings on the spot for me.

Just an update on the cam - I haven't gotten a chance to call Comp Cams yet, but I talked to the machinist and he said all I need to do is change the cam gear and I will be fine. I'm going to get on the phone with Comp Cams on Monday just to make sure.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Looking good Greg! Do you have a primer shaft to prime the oil pump with a drill once it's all assembled? If not, and you don't want to buy one, let me know.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Here is a good one from summit, you need to complete the oil galley across the distributor boss to get oil to the top end. I made one years ago from an old distributor, at the time they didn't sell these for 20.00 bucks. Make sure you use a decent electric drill it will burn up a cheap one. Run it until you see oil out the top of all the rocker arms. You want to do this, than stab your distributor and fire it up right away.

Love the Mercury Marine blue paint!

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I made one years ago from an old distributor, at the time they didn't sell these for 20.00 bucks.Love the Mercury

Same here... Had a newer style Delco HEI that got some modifications . When I prime, I usually put a cheap mechanical pressure gauge on the engine, and spin the drill over till I see pressure. Then while spinning the drill under pressure, I have someone rotate the engine.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Thanks Erik - it probably won't be for a few months but if I need to borrow the primer rod I'll let you know.

I ran across a new problem over the weekend. My block has been done for a few weeks and a small amount of rust/corrosion/something rust colored started to form on the deck. I need to get rid of this before I put the heads on so the gaskets will seal properly. Is there any kind of chemical I can get that will get rid of the rust? I've been reading some auto forums and saw something about naval jelly - will that do the job? Is there something better?

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Thanks Erik - it probably won't be for a few months but if I need to borrow the primer rod I'll let you know.

I ran across a new problem over the weekend. My block has been done for a few weeks and a small amount of rust/corrosion/something rust colored started to form on the deck. I need to get rid of this before I put the heads on so the gaskets will seal properly. Is there any kind of chemical I can get that will get rid of the rust? I've been reading some auto forums and saw something about naval jelly - will that do the job? Is there something better?

Where on the deck? How big and how deep, any pitting? Could just be from your sweat, post a picture! Cast iron rusts very easy on the surface. You can sometimes have problems if deep pitting has occurred. Picture please!

 

[90stingray]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

It is going to be very minor surface rust. Flash rusting. A rag with wd40 should dissolve it just fine. But it needs something on it to prevent rusting again. Could use fogging oil, then wrap the block in trash bags to keep the air out. Hope this helps...

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

It is going to be very minor surface rust. Flash rusting. A rag with wd40 should dissolve it just fine. But it needs something on it to prevent rusting again. Could use fogging oil, then wrap the block in trash bags to keep the air out. Hope this helps...

Wrapping in plastic can backfire in some situations, can cause condensation. Best to keep clean and dry. Fresh cast iron can rust up over night on the surface...no big deal, it can also be rusting from the inside out or have deep pitting which can sometimes be a problem. I have a couple of other wise perfect blocks that cant be used without sleeves from cylinder pitting.