1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

[Tectron]

Hi All, I had an over heating problem on my outboard, 79 v4 115, got so hot it melted the Coils where they mount to the heads, engine runs but wont idle up, I may have other issues but to start I want to replace the Coils, 1 question is should I go with the same Coils ( 4 in all ) or is it possible to upgrade to a better Coils? This all started with the collapse of the inner lining of one of the hoses, wasnt visible from the outside of the hose, SO, I was running along and engine quit, turned around and smoke was coming out of the cover, damage done. Looks like ive got a project on my hands. Want to get this thing going so hopefully I wont be to much of a pain as I go through this adventure . Ive ordered the OEM Service manual to guide me through, still waiting on it.

Model is a 115TL79R, all input will be greatly welcomed

 

[Will Bark]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Before you spend money on packs you need to do a compression test on the cylinders; you may have a bigger project on your hands than just the packs; a rebuild of the engine.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Lookd in the OEM Service Manual for Compression specs and couldnt find them. They are between 85-90 lbs each. Not sure what they need to be. Check was done on cold engine after it has been sitting for over a week.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

You may be referring to the 4 coils on the heads. Your engine has 2 power packs. If you replace the coils, you will get the upgraded/superceded, newer coils. I would expect the 1979 original factory compression was around 125 lbs. Your engine will run on 85-90 lbs compression, but I would expect it to be down on horsepower. You may want to evaluate your long term plans for the powerhead before you put a lot of money in the coils.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Yes, you are correct, It is the coils that are melted against the Head, not the power packs. The coils are about $25.00 ea. Not alot of money to get it running if thats all it takes. I will also check the Power packs to make sure specs on them are with in acceptable range. As far as the compression, would it be higher if the engine was warm and not have been sitting for for some time? Thankx for the imput guys.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Edited my first Post, I ment to say Coils not Packs, Im learning as I go, I will assume that the info you gave me still applies as far as spending to much to get this thing going. I did the compression check and came up with an average of around 85 on a cold engine that has been sitting a while, not sure that those numbers would be higher if it was warm and the cylinders were not dry.

 

[levi_tsk]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

i run mallory marine coil packs and powerpacks.. iboats has them and they come with a two year manufacturers warranty only cdi's are better and they come with a 3 year

 

[levi_tsk]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

id also run a decarb and check it again

 

[emoney]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

This is way too early, but thought I'd throw it out there. You need to figure out what's happening with your overheat alarm too. She should've started buzzing at the controls when she reached "overheat". Had that alarm sounded and you shut her off, might've saved a lot. Just something to consider as you're getting into things.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Agree with levi, run some Bombardier Engine Tuner through the engine. If the rings are coked at all, it will bring the compression up somewhat. Will not hurt to run a 2nd batch through, either.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Had someone recomend Seafoam to squirt down into the jugs and let it soak to break up the carbon in case the rings are not expanding like they should. Is this what Levi is talking about in his post when he says to de-carb? As far as using the "Bombardier Engine Tuner", is that an in gas tank additive?

 

[levi_tsk]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

no you can use the omc tuner stuff the same way youd use the seafoam BOTH do the same thing -seafoams a little cheaper though you COULD however do what im in the process of doing, change your primer valve handle so that you can use the engine tuner and fogging oil (its got a shrader valve that you screw the can nozzle onto) i just bought this off here yesterday and when it gets here it going on the boat as it makes life way easier

http://www.iboats.com/Service-Valve...7650262--**********.610909446--view_id.485850

 

[F_R]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Hate to say this, but you are living in a fantasy world. You cooked that motor. At the very least, it needs new head gaskets and exhaust cover gaskets. Once you get the exhaust covers off, you will be able to peek in through the ports to see how badly you scored the piston skirts. I'll almost guaran-dang-tee you that they are scored and need replacement.

Stop worrying about coils and mouse milk and start worrying about reality.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

WOW F_R
Im hoping your wrong on that, Ill take it a step at a time, This is what ive done so far...

I did the seafoam, it brought up the compression on the cylinders and seemed to make the engine run better but didnt seem quite right, so I got to checking the wiring and found that one of the wires that go to one of the coils was not making contact inside of the butt connecter, so I repaired that and the engine revs clear up to 5,000 rpm with more throttle to go, wanted to be careful not to create more problems by over revn. I would think that to put it to the test it would need to be under a load, just dont have a way to check it that way at the moment without making a huge mess, Ive got it sitting in my horses water tank right now. SO, back to the orignal culprit of this whole mess, the cooling system...After I was done with the decarb and fixin the wire and running the engine I noticed it wasnt spittin water out the pee hole and that the engine was getting hot again, so I took off one of the hoses that goes into the power head and pushed a garden hose on it and ran the engine again and the pee hole was working. So some where ive got and intermedint problem with the cooling delivery, after running it with the garden hose I re attached the engine hose back on and ran it again, the pee hole worked for about 2 min and then started to blow steam, no water, so turned it off and am now writing to you guys I was told the water pump was just serviced with a new impeller.

 

[levi_tsk]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

you either fried it or someone lied to you ... take the lower off and inspect it if it looks good check the thermostats
also how high on the leg does the water come up in your test tank? - it needs to be at least to the bottom of the lower engine mount - the water pump wont work otherwise AND if youve run it like that long youve fried the impeller

and why arent you using muffs???

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Not sure where to start on your reply there Levi I actually took the lower half apart at the lake when this all started, the impeller did look in real good shape. my concern now is that there might be a chance that the pump housing might have issues, I thought about removing the t-stats to see if the flow would go but got to thinking that if I put the garden house directly through the inlet pipe that the hose from the t-stat goes to and the water circulates all the way through then wouldnt it be likley that the t-stats are open? that is what I did. Somehow its not getting enough water from the pump I think, as when its cold it pisses and when it gets hot it turns to steam like the water is getting boiled before it can leave the heads. I dont really know at this point but I think I will remove the lower half again, re-inspect the pump and impeller, if I have the slightest doubt I am going to replace the whole setup.

And now to answer you question about muffs, I live of grid, no utilities what so ever, My electric is Solar&wind, my water comes from a Solar Well, so when I use water I am tapping my reserves. Just thought id be more Green by using the Tub. But if you think Id get better results with the muffs I can try that. I do think tho that by using the Tub its more like sitting in the lake, no forced water from muffs, not sure if there is really a diff on the two. the engine is deep enough tho, its well above the mounts. Adding to the first paragraph- When I removed the lower section at the lake I did notice that there was alot of the old impeller in the form of what can best be described as coffee grounds all inside, so it really makes me want to replace the pump housing.

 

[levi_tsk]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

yep probably a good idea to replace the cup AT least if the cup doesnt come out of the housing its is SHOT too replace it .
take the themostats out and back flush water into there some of the impeller may have gone into the water tube and is stopping up the flow (sometimes a whole blade off the impeller can get sucked or blown up in there do this while you have the lower unit off do not run this motor withouth the t-stats in it it wont come up to opperating temp and itll find other gremlins to show you
youve got the right idea with not using the muffs make sure youve got the water AT LEAST to the bottom of the lower engine mount itll rule out or rule in the pump
the pump must be fully submerged or it wont make cornflakes

one other thing?? youre in arizona right? how hot is that water in the tank getting when it starts to over heat???? you picking up what im throwing down? t-stats open at 130-140F and that really isnt that much of an increase in temp especially if its 100 degrees outside - the engine will over heat if it hits 160F

i admire your gridless life style and believe me if i wasnt renting id be figuring out a way NOT to have to pay georgia power ANY more money - the rich bastards have got enough of it already

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

If the stats are stuck shut, the cooling water won't circulate through the powerhead and you will get an overheat very quickly. Probably time to change both of them. Also, check the condition of the nylon pressure relief valves inside the stat housing. They can warp if overheated. I'd run that engine with stats, even if you are in Arizonas.

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

The tank Im using is a 300 Gal, I havnt run the engine long enough to even get the water warm so I think Im OK there. Ive made my mind up to go through the whole system and check everything that has to do with the cooling system, might just replace all the components inside the T-stat Housing just to be safe.

I do have a question on the Tube that comes out of the water pump and up to the power head, it has alot of play where it connects up top inside where it connects to what I dont know at the moment. Is this normal ? Also to add to my madain voyage at the lake where I removed the lower end -, I was reading in the Service Manual that all the surfaces are supposed to be sealed with OMC-???, I put that all back together without any sealer, so maybe there is a problem there, It didnt seem to me that there was any on the surfaces when I took it apart either, so there might be an issue there as well. Looks like Im Bank fishing this weekend

 

[Tectron]

Re: 1979 Johnson V4 Power packs

Thanks for the tips emdsapmgr, I made my mind up to do just that, Im planning to replace all the serviceable parts/pieces inside that housing, at least Ill know the condition of them at that point. thankx again.