1995 Evinrude 130 won't start, HELP!

Bigben_1

Seaman
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Jun 21, 2017
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58
Slightly high but no big deal as you need a new stator anyway.

Out of interest what does the meter read if you short the meter leads together?

It reads about 0.3. So if you subtract that from the 0.9-1.0, you get 0.6-0.7, right on the money. I just checked that and double, double checked brown to brown/yellow.
 

Fed

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It reads about 0.3. So if you subtract that from the 0.9-1.0, you get 0.6-0.7, right on the money. I just checked that and double, double checked brown to brown/yellow.
For a noob you're becoming quite the expert Ben.
Good to see you picked up on shorting the meter leads & doing the subtraction without any input from me. Well done.
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
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Stator ordered, should have it in a couple of days. Anyone need a new in package dva adaptor? Lol. Hell, I might actually need it someday I suppose.
 

Bigben_1

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For a noob you're becoming quite the expert Ben.
Good to see you picked up on shorting the meter leads & doing the subtraction without any input from me. Well done.

Thanks! Again, your help has been indispensable to me. Thanks to you and the few others who weighed in on this. You may have saved me a chunk of change (marine mechanic) and taught me a good bit about my motor. Now to get this stator installed, I've watched videos and feel pretty confident that I can do it if I can get the flywheel off! Then I'm hoping to see Odin's lightning in my spark tester! Hopefully that's what will happen.
 

Fed

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Search the forums for flywheel removal.
A couple of things I've picked up.

Use the right puller & the right bolts.
Torque to correct setting for reinstall, 105 Lbs by memory.
Make sure the key is parallel to the centre line.
Make sure the shaft & flywheel are completely clean & dry when re-installing.
A flywheel holding strap will make it easier.

For a one off job it may even be worth getting a shop to R & R the flywheel rather than buying a puller, flywheel strap & torque wrench.
 

cfauvel

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Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
This is very frustrating, how am I supposed to test the brown to brown/yellow wires? They both run into a 2-pin plug. How am I supposed to get my multimeter probes down there? I've been trying for 15mins.



well you are pass this point ,

but I bought five jumper wires from CDI...they each have a female and male end and an extra female added on for the multimeter to 'back probe' .

as FED stated the voltage tests are done with the plugs OFF/Disconnected....and using a remote starter switch crank the motor (with water muffs on and water running)
 
Last edited:

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
Definitely KEEP the DVA adapter and buy the jumper wires from CDI...or make your own(not worth it in my opinion)...you will be down this road in the future.

If you like buying tools (I do) then get your self a powerful impact driver and large socket to remove the flywheel nut...otherwise like FED says pay a guy to do it who has the tools....my flywheel holder stinks....I have seen people using chain and bolting it on the block and flywheel.....not sure I would recommend that though
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
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Jun 21, 2017
Messages
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Definitely KEEP the DVA adapter and buy the jumper wires from CDI...or make your own(not worth it in my opinion)...you will be down this road in the future.

If you like buying tools (I do) then get your self a powerful impact driver and large socket to remove the flywheel nut...otherwise like FED says pay a guy to do it who has the tools....my flywheel holder stinks....I have seen people using chain and bolting it on the block and flywheel.....not sure I would recommend that though

Yes, I saw a video with a guy using an impact wrench. Looks pretty easy that way. I must confess that I do like buying tools! I did buy some jumper wires from o'reilly so I was using them to conduct my ohm tests.
 

Bigben_1

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well you are pass this point ,

but I bought five jumper wires from CDI...they each have a female and male end and an extra female added on for the multimeter to 'back probe' .

as FED stated the voltage tests are done with the plugs OFF/Disconnected....and using a remote starter switch crank the motor (with water muffs on and water running)

I've also made the mistake of cranking to motor off of the muffs, I hope my impeller is ok. If not, I have a new pump/impeller ready to go.
 

Fed

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I wouldn't put the muffs on to do some cranking testing because you will get wet feet.
 

Bigben_1

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So I got my stator. There are two yellow wires instead on yellow and yellow/gray. Does it matter which I put where? Also, I CANNOT get this flywheel nut off!!! I've tried to chain the flywheel to a cleat and I'm bending grade 8 bolts like butter. Any suggestions? I've also hit it with pb blaster twice. Also, I tested my new stator and the ohm reading is perfect.
 

ob

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Aug 16, 2002
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As long as you install the yellow wires to the same terminal block where the originals go, it doesn't matter which yellow stator lead goes top or bottom. Yea, those flywheel nuts can be a booger. A good impact will remove them easier sometimes ,but make sure you have it set to loosen and not tighten as to not over torque the nut. I actually recently went contrary to what I would advise on here, and used a suitably sized screwdriver between the starter bendix teeth and the flywheel teeth as a backup and used a long handled breaker bar on my engines flywheel nut. Mine came off surprisingly easy this way. I also used an assistant to steady the screwdriver while I pulled smoothly/not jerky on the breaker bar. Not for the faint of heart though.:joyous: Of course I wouldn't want to feel responsible for teeth that could conceivably break off of your flywheel in trying this, if you get my drift.;) Otherwise some type of long handled flywheel spanner would be necessary.
 

Bigben_1

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As long as you install the yellow wires to the same terminal block where the originals go, it doesn't matter which yellow stator lead goes top or bottom. Yea, those flywheel nuts can be a booger. A good impact will remove them easier sometimes ,but make sure you have it set to loosen and not tighten as to not over torque the nut. I actually recently went contrary to what I would advise on here, and used a suitably sized screwdriver between the starter bendix teeth and the flywheel teeth as a backup and used a long handled breaker bar on my engines flywheel nut. Mine came off surprisingly easy this way. I also used an assistant to steady the screwdriver while I pulled smoothly/not jerky on the breaker bar. Not for the faint of heart though.:joyous: Of course I wouldn't want to feel responsible for teeth that could conceivably break off of your flywheel in trying this, if you get my drift.;) Otherwise some type of long handled flywheel spanner would be necessary.
I tried a 2' cheater pipe and an impact wrench with no success. I think I'm going to call the marine mechanic and see if I can get him to pull the nut and the flywheel
 

Fed

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There are two yellow wires instead on yellow and yellow/gray. Does it matter which I put where?
Makes no difference because the stator coils (12V) are not grounded.

I CANNOT get this flywheel nut off!!! I've tried to chain the flywheel to a cleat and I'm bending grade 8 bolts like butter.
Borrow the right tool or get a shop who has the right tool to remove it for you.
Don't forget at some point you have to put it back on with a torque wrench.
Don't wreck anything.

Also, I tested my new stator and the ohm reading is perfect.
Feeling more confident?
 

ob

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I tried a 2' cheater pipe and an impact wrench with no success. I think I'm going to call the marine mechanic and see if I can get him to pull the nut and the flywheel

Good call. Some of them are real boogers.
 

Bigben_1

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Makes no difference because the stator coils (12V) are not grounded.


Borrow the right tool or get a shop who has the right tool to remove it for you.
Don't forget at some point you have to put it back on with a torque wrench.
Don't wreck anything.


Feeling more confident?

So I got it off, installed new stator, wired everything, reinstalled flywheel to 105ft/lbs, went to fire it up and.....NO SPARK!!!! Still no spark!!! I'm at a total loss and somewhat discouraged, as you can imagine. Now what?? šŸ™
 

Fed

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Don't panic, start from scratch with the CDI tests.
It could be something simple like 2 problems and so far you have only corrected 1 of them.
 
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