starkizzle
Seaman
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2016
- Messages
- 52
Hello, I have a 72 johnson 125- 125ESL72R
with the hydro static drive, first boat. I took it in trade and finally rebuilt the carbs and had it running, then the neutral safety switch went, along with the little short 20 amp glass fuse above the solenoid. After replacing the fuse, and then switch( I thought it was just the fuse, but fuse didn't start it, boat mechanic tested switch and i replaced it) and starting on muffs, i noticed that it stayed in gear when started. It would not go in neutral, and when i put it in reverse, the prop kept turning the same direction. After alittle research I found out about the hydrodrive johnson and how important the premium unit oil is. I used just regular stuff when I got it ready for the summer.. I drained the old stuff and replaced with new, correct oil. I started it, and it seemed like it may have been in neutral, and when I put it in reverse, it looked it was going to reverse direction ( the prop) but it died, and blew another fuse.
At this point I decided the look into the fuse more, I had already checked the lines from solenoid to the battery, and ignition system back to solenoid, before I found the bad fuse.. did not see anything grounding out. Where the 20amp was looked alittle frayed where it was bent back, so I replaced it with a new inline blade type and cut out the bad connection. I started up the boat and it remained in forward gear. The fuse did not blow, part i think because its 30a instead of the 20a but while checking the blue and green wire going to the lower for power ( and not being able to get a good number, bouncing all over the place, i noticed that green wire was getting hot.
So I know that with these hydro drive types you are suppose to get certain readings from certain wires in F/N/R, and i clearly have some sort of short, I am cutting into the wiring harness in the morning, checking that green wire around and looking for a short, my questions are,
1- If I rule out shorts on the top, anything special i should know before taking apart the lower unit?
2- Staying in drive is a fail-safe for the transmission, what are the odds the short plays apart? what are the odds i did real damage with the wrong oil?
3-What is likely wrong with the lower unit, if i did hurt something, and what am i looking for to diagnose and repair.
Thank you in advance and let me know if I can clear anything up.
with the hydro static drive, first boat. I took it in trade and finally rebuilt the carbs and had it running, then the neutral safety switch went, along with the little short 20 amp glass fuse above the solenoid. After replacing the fuse, and then switch( I thought it was just the fuse, but fuse didn't start it, boat mechanic tested switch and i replaced it) and starting on muffs, i noticed that it stayed in gear when started. It would not go in neutral, and when i put it in reverse, the prop kept turning the same direction. After alittle research I found out about the hydrodrive johnson and how important the premium unit oil is. I used just regular stuff when I got it ready for the summer.. I drained the old stuff and replaced with new, correct oil. I started it, and it seemed like it may have been in neutral, and when I put it in reverse, it looked it was going to reverse direction ( the prop) but it died, and blew another fuse.
At this point I decided the look into the fuse more, I had already checked the lines from solenoid to the battery, and ignition system back to solenoid, before I found the bad fuse.. did not see anything grounding out. Where the 20amp was looked alittle frayed where it was bent back, so I replaced it with a new inline blade type and cut out the bad connection. I started up the boat and it remained in forward gear. The fuse did not blow, part i think because its 30a instead of the 20a but while checking the blue and green wire going to the lower for power ( and not being able to get a good number, bouncing all over the place, i noticed that green wire was getting hot.
So I know that with these hydro drive types you are suppose to get certain readings from certain wires in F/N/R, and i clearly have some sort of short, I am cutting into the wiring harness in the morning, checking that green wire around and looking for a short, my questions are,
1- If I rule out shorts on the top, anything special i should know before taking apart the lower unit?
2- Staying in drive is a fail-safe for the transmission, what are the odds the short plays apart? what are the odds i did real damage with the wrong oil?
3-What is likely wrong with the lower unit, if i did hurt something, and what am i looking for to diagnose and repair.
Thank you in advance and let me know if I can clear anything up.