RESCUE

jrttoday

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?life is like a box of chocolates?, lol guess I need start a new thread? The phone rings and it?s my buddy from around the corner. He?s an ?old? retired outboard mechanic that has only ever done nuts and bolts. He still rebuilds powerheads and lower units out back, hunts and fishes. ?Hey, my neighbor stopped by on his way to the scrap yard with a load of junk and has an old Johnson he thought I might want to mess with. I can't use it."
?It has electric shift and thought you might want it for parts?.

I was in the middle of a thousand things and reluctantly said, ?yeah? I?ll come look at it?. After all, he?s less than a mile away. Wasn?t too impressed at first site; and he wanted a wad of cash thinking it was a done deal. Finally negotiated down to three or four times what it would bring as scrap and I wasn?t willing to go that high.

He seemed a little agitated as it was now too late for the scrap yard, but I took his number just in case I changed my mind. After 57 years of living, that might have been the most intelligent thing I?ve ever done ? to get his number!! lol

Home to get online and cross reference what was interchangeable - I?ve had this 1972 Johnson 100 Seahorse for going on six years; and this is a 1970 Johnson 115. Can we say ?practically everything?? It was too late in the evening to call him; hardly slept a wink. By 9:00am, his tow motor was setting her down in the back of my truck.

uuugggggggghhhhhhhhh! Too much going on to take the time to really look at this motor. Anxious to visually see the stator because I was thinking of using it first; took the flywheel off and changed my mind. Excitement took over and the plan now is getting this motor running and using my ?72 for parts. They used the same V4 block on everything ? ?perhaps the most common outboard ever manufactured is the 1969-1997 V4 crossflow Johnson/Evinrude engine. In production for 29 years these are as basic as an outboard gets? ? Johnson Outboard History.

I hope to be updating as things unfold, but I?m in no hurry. In so far, it looks like this motor has waited for 45 years and still hasn?t been started. Not kidding, you?ll see

***** found out Tuesday that I had misunderstood him - he had in fact just come from the scrap yard and pulled it from a pile that was scheduled to crushed up and sent out for melting down. What a waist....
and the irritation I sensed was probably about me not buying it right then after all the haggling! lol


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racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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36,269
Pistons and rings are different between the 2 motors !!!-----And the block " looks " the same but check it yourself to see if it is the same !!!!-----Cubic inches for the 100 is 92.6 and the 115 is 99.6 so there.
 
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jrttoday

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Hopefully, that will never be a concern. The 100 still hits hard and the 115 has never been fired up, at least to my knowledge and all indications, thus far. After a thorough examination and servicing, I'll better know.... maybe not know better!! :lol:
had other priorities and didn't check on everything - no need at present; but flywheel, coil, power pack, rotor, D-cap, stator, starter, lower unit, carbs and more....
However, will probably have to swap drive shafts w/lu as there are some difs somewhere? I know the guts are different/shift mechanisms changed between years.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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36,269
??????----I think you will find the lower units will interchange !---Both are the electro-hydraulic shift.--------Are these the first motors you have owned / worked on ?
 

jrttoday

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In looking at 'em and at diagrams, externally the same/internally different - gears, clutches, hydraulics? Different part # for housing, but will bolt up. Shaft a different number,also.
Had a 1953 MonkE Wards 5hp SeaKingback in '70 to '85. A '97 Mariner 5hp still on the back of my 1965 Sears 12' semi-V (1st boat ever my dad bought me when I was 7), still an awesome little boat! '84 150 Black Max on 18' Skeeter, went thru 2 powerheads and sold in 06. Currently, this '72 100hp Johnson and the 115. Have done something to all of them at some point. The boat I have now is one that I built, or rebuilt, or transformed, or whatever!!
My dad had me in the garage when I was five, helping him etc
I have a bad habit of taking on things few others will :facepalm: I bought stock in BC Powders!!
 
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jrttoday

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This will be my first serious project with an outboard motor and there are things I might overlook just from not knowing. Even though these motors are simple by design, I will be consulting my friend around the corner. He stays kinda busy caring for his ailing wife and I hate being an imposition; therefore, I welcome suggestions. For example, what needs to be done first? besides, me building a stand for it
I think, pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders, pull the carbs and oil it from that end too?
 

jrttoday

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I need a supervisor to tell me to quit fantasizing about this motor and GET2WORK!!! :lol: Still have to finish welding this trailer and make some room in the garage lol but but but, mating call for something!!Anyway, looks to me like no heat whatsoever on the heads; styrofoam BB's in the gearcase housing prolly from crate packing, and no sign of a prop ever being on that shaft!!!! nut, cotter key, and plastic washer - not a mark on 'em.
http://
 
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jrttoday

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jrttoday

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You might be a redneck if you ride around with an outboard in the bed of your truck!! Or if you build a stand for it out of whatever scraps you have lying around!! Am guilty of both; I don?t throw away much, if I do, you can bet it?s good for nothing.

Made this 2? limited slip differential from junk I had; think you can still buy these at Lowes or Home Depot? :lol: the axles too; 8? tires used to be on my johnboat trailer ? replaced w/12? years ago. Washers I found and used them for retainers. Excessive camber may cause premature tire wear, but who cares? Front casters were some old 3? rollers and the steel was leftover from a trailer I?m building.
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cut the hubs out of 10ga with a grinder and cutting wheel - gussets from sniped angle scraps and welded in place after making sure it wold roll OK. Camber seems to help w/stability and NO bearings keeps it from taking off by itself!! Can't wait to get the motor on it; figure out the rest (balance etc) tomorrow. Hope to mount over the tires; redneck anvil to be used for counterweight :facepalm: at least it will be out of my way!

angle of pic makes camber look exaggerated more than it is
 

60sboater

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2015
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I like the stand. I had a '72 100 Evinrude for a year....ran well except blew the pack...was on a 16' tri hull. Keep us informed.
 

jrttoday

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thanks, paint will cure all that's wrong!! lol worked from 10a to 9p and that's all I got done! lol It's tuff cutting everything w/cutting wheel. 1/4x2.5x2.5 and 2x3, the rest will be 1/4x1.5x1.5, and I think I have enough 1/4x2.5x2.5 for the motor?
My '72 ran great for three, blew the pack, and am still chasing something? Hits hard, but shuts off like you turned the key off when it gets warmed up. Fires right back up and gets progressively worse. Might try it again tomorrow, but have to get this one in the garage first!!
I'm sold on that '72, enough to have real high hopes for this one. But was thinking today it must have been fired up at least once in order to fog it?
 
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jrttoday

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finally!!! Managed to get far enough along with this trailer to move it out of the way,but still need to make a ramp, install a wood bed, lights, safety chains etc. It's made of 1/4" angle and welded solid everywhere with 3500 lb axle/springs - 16" trailer tires
http://
 

jrttoday

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Went to the scrap yard and dug up this compressor cylinder for extra counterweight - at 60lbs the railroad iron was barely enough. Cylinder weighed in at 50 pounds; just looking, I didn't think they'd be so close in weight?
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for $13, I got the cylinder and three racing tire casters!! Had to use two to make one; the casters I made were OK, but...... these are great.
 
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interalian

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Jul 23, 2009
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If you could bolt the motor to the other side of the stand, you wouldn't need the counterweight.
 

jrttoday

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at idle and trimmed all the way down, she's 2" off the floor and 2" from the "rear end" housing lol.
2.5x2.5" angle top mount notched for motor; 1.5x1.5 underneath with 9/16" gap for bolts. Ran some paint on it for added stability :joyous:
wedge a 2x4 between front and back - it will not move, torque any bolt etc.. Rolls anywhere easily, maybe even the yard?

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jrttoday

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bolt engine to the opposite side and you won't need counter weights

I thought about that initially, but..... when I'm working on a motor (and at eye level), I do not need to be thinking about tripping hazards. I can push this up under a table or benches, have access to my tools, and not bust my A**!!!! which I am famous for!!
And mounted the other way makes it more precarious to move around. I'm guessing the motor is 260+ - pounds, my 100hp is 252; counterweights keep it from being so top heavy no matter how you mount the motor. Push or pull, much easier
 

jrttoday

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Messages
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bolt engine to the opposite side and you won't need counter weights


taking a break from loading all the wood for the trailer bed, am ready for a nap!! :sleeping: must be getting old! lol Not planning on four wheeling, but pushed it on the grass and back, no problem. Plan on making a battery tray and a place for my 3gal tank; that way it can be started/run without flooding the driveway.

2nd thought, having a fuel tank that close to a battery isn't a good idea...
 
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