Evinrude 1983 60hp low compression

[racerone]

Post # 26 suggested that there might be a problem with a scored piston.--Your pictures now prove that there is a problem-That problem needs to be addressed.----The motor will run with that but it will not run properly and will get worse,

 

[DrDim]

And the solution is to drill the cylinder?? The problem is that the boat is in a river a couple of hundred of meters from where I live, and the nearest place to pickup the boat with trailer is 6km downstream. So I still need to fix this things at least temporary or pay several hundred dollars to get the boat with a crane.

 

[DrDim]

Sorry for the harsh post, but I feel like this is a catch 22. I realise that I mode a misstake buying this boat without proper knowledge on what to look for. And now it's too late for reverting the purchase. There were special circumstances that made me buy this so fast in the first place, although the boat and the trailer I'm happy with. Just the motor that apperently sucks, in sweden second hand outboards are crazy expansiva. One reason is that the boating season here is only a couple of months. So buying a second hand 60hp motor in good condition that is like 15 Years old id probably like 4000$ and that what I bought the boat, motor and the trailer for. So drilling a cylinder and get new parts is something I will most probably have to get someone to do for me. How much is that in US (I can probably Double the amount to get the Swedish price).

 

[bonz_d]

DrDim, if as you say the price for used outboards in your locale is crazy expensive then it just may well be worth the expense of having that power head rebuilt the right way. A slight overbore should clean those cylinders up and then it should be good for another 40 years. Believe me those are great engines. Just sold a 1975 50hp Johnson that runs like a top, Have a 1983 60hp on my boat now that will be swapped out with a 1987 50hp Johnson VRO with power tilt 'n trim.

I am fortunate that in my area used outboards are everywhere. especially the older OMC and Mercury's. I wish you the best of luck in this project.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Having experience with engine rebuilds, it is my opinion that the cylinder wall shown is scratched badly. As the other guy said, it needs addressed, which takes you to another dimension. Sitting is hard on the cylinders by allowing rust to form, which is like tiny particles of sand. Then when it takes off running again it is a mess on the engine internally. When you look at the cylinder walls you should think ["beautiful and shiny"]-the one shown is not. With that much scaring the rings probably will not last long. Maybe a cylinder hone tool and new rings. You must be careful with this so you don't go too far causing too much clearance and mess up the ring end gaps.

I wouldn't worry about your purchase, what you are learning now is VERY valuable in my opinion. You will love the motor once you get it going. Remember: CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN especially internally.

 

[DrDim]

Having experience with engine rebuilds, it is my opinion that the cylinder wall shown is scratched badly. As the other guy said, it needs addressed, which takes you to another dimension. Sitting is hard on the cylinders by allowing rust to form, which is like tiny particles of sand. Then when it takes off running again it is a mess on the engine internally. When you look at the cylinder walls you should think ["beautiful and shiny"]-the one shown is not. With that much scaring the rings probably will not last long. Maybe a cylinder hone tool and new rings. You must be careful with this so you don't go too far causing too much clearance and mess up the ring end gaps.

I wouldn't worry about your purchase, what you are learning now is VERY valuable in my opinion. You will love the motor once you get it going. Remember: CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN especially internally.

So you think I could fix this with a hone tool like this http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Ovrigt/Honingsverktyg-2000016982/
But I would need to buy new rings like this http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/brp/B-0391416.html or http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/brp/B-0391170.html

 

[racerone]

That honing tool may be used to clean up the score marks if they are not too deep.---Can you feel the scratches with your finger nails ?---A new piston / rings may also be required.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Yes, that is the tool that I mentioned. For more aggressive scratches you can use these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/br...FYc6gQodgZ8EqQ

I am sorry, but I cannot say for sure as I don't know how deep the scratches are. The only way to tell is to start honing until they are gone then see if the cylinder bore exceeds the max tolerance. Ring groove at the top of the cylinders will tell you the true hours on the engine.

You can completely ruin an engine if messing with one of these tools and you do not know how to use them. So, make sure-if you decide to try to clean the cylinders up some-that you watch some videos on youtube on how to use the tool. The tool I suggested in the link above would be used first with LOTS of engine oil in the cylinder while the brush is spinning-actually both tools need oil while they are spinning and you are moving the hone tool up and down at an even pace. The tool MUST be moving up and down as the drill spins (these tools are used with an electric drill); you can NEVER stop going up and down. The pistons would need to be removed. You MUST buy new rings if you hone the cylinders. Pistons can be assessed after they are removed to determine if they can be reused or not, most likely can be reused, might consider a new set of them also ?depending? Let price and condition dictate on pistons.

Ring groove would be another aspect that would need to be checked. This is a ledge that is created by the rings at the top of the cylinder and CAN be checked with a fingernail. You don't check the scratches on the cylinder walls with your fingernail. To check the cylinder wall scratches you look at them and feel them to see how smooth they are compared to a perfect cylinder-visit your machine shop and ask him/her to touch there bores. :laugh: I have seen some rebuilders remove this ring groove ledge with a sand/grinding stone on a slow spinning drill (battery 12v type)-CAREFULLY. Remove this ledge before honing.

After all this work you would definitely,without a doubt, put in a fresh set of rings, BUT you MUST make certain that the ring end-gap does not exceeed the maximum tolerance for this motor after the honing work. If it does exceed the maximum tolerance then it would have to be bored. The deeper the scratches in the cylinders the deeper you would need to go with the cylinder honing.

The absolute best thing you could do to this engine would be to have it professionally bored by a professional machinist.

Hope this is helpful and good luck.

Edit: I couldn't see the ring links-not working.

 

[DrDim]

http://www.**********/parts/detail/brp/B-0391416.html orhttp://www.**********/parts/detail/brp/B-0391170.html

Apprently iboats remove some of the link, boats dot net
Also if I would bore how much is normal and where could I get piston and rings that fit?

 

[Sunken Ship]

http://www.**********/parts/detail/brp/B-0391416.html orhttp://www.**********/parts/detail/brp/B-0391170.html

Apprently iboats remove some of the link, boats dot net
Also if I would bore how much is normal and where could I get piston and rings that fit?

The "std" rings refers to standard/factory bore size and you could most likely reuse your piston. .030 rings are when you have a machinist bore the engine that would also require a larger .030 piston to match this increased bore size.

Really just need to figure out how far you want to go with that engine. A professional machinist could be used on this engine, no doubt. From the looks-I could be wrong-it does not appear to have a bad ring groove. The other option is to do the best you can do and run it until it dies again.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Here is your ring groove area. Run your fingernail up the cylinder and see if it catches where the tip of the arrow is. If there is just a small lip there then you can ignore the ring groove discussion. I would strongly suggest a service manual for you. They are tremendous tool to have for all of us.

 

[bonz_d]

I would strongly suggest a service manual for you. They are tremendous tool to have for all of us.

I would greatly agree with this statement especially if you plan on proceeding with a complete rebuild and splitting the crankcase.

 

[DrDim]

I got "Johnson Evinrude manual 1971-89" it's a repair manual, do you mean this one or a different manual?

 

[Sunken Ship]

That should help, but not much is better than the exact service manual. See if you can find the ring end-gap and cylinder bore size (power head section) for your engine in the manual you have.

Have you decided how far you want to go with this engine yet?

 

[DrDim]

According to the manual I have:
Bore STD 3.188"
Bore oversize 0.030"
Piston ring gap max 0.017"
Pistong ring gap min 0.007"

There is more measurements also in the manual.

Regarding what to do with the motor I have order the gaskets I need and a new thermostat.
I will start with this so I can at least drive to boat to a place where I can pick it up with a trailer.
I don't feel comfortable using a hone tool, so I'm thinking of have the cylinder honed or bored by a professional firm.
If I have understood it correctly I would just need to buy a new piston and two rings (according to the manual it's only necessary to bore one cylinder), I could probably get this for like 130usd + shipping 50usd. And I'm guessing that a bore would cost like 100usd.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Sounds like you have a good plan and the manual has important specs. At least try to clean those cylinders your very best and get all of the junk out that you can; maybe spray the cylinders with WD40 then rotate the flywheel by hand once or twice then wipe (towel) the walls again. I would repeat this a couple of times until the cylinder walls are as clean as you can get them to make life better on the cylinder walls and rings. Cleanliness is so very important to an engine. Coat the cylinder walls lightly with some oil before putting it back together. They make engine assembly lube just for this. If you can't get this special lube then use car engine oil so there is no "dry" startup. Try to make it last as long as you can.

Hope you get the beast running again soon. Keep us updated-love to see people fix up old stuff like this. :encouragement:

SS

 

[DrDim]

Looks like I finally will get the parts today. However I'm having some trouble finding out the torque specification for the water jacket. I think the bolts are 7/16" and according to the manual I got the torque should be 28-30ft/lb, could this be correct? For the cylinder head the torque is only 18-20ft/lb.

 

[DrDim]

Sounds like you have a good plan and the manual has important specs. At least try to clean those cylinders your very best and get all of the junk out that you can; maybe spray the cylinders with WD40 then rotate the flywheel by hand once or twice then wipe (towel) the walls again. I would repeat this a couple of times until the cylinder walls are as clean as you can get them to make life better on the cylinder walls and rings. Cleanliness is so very important to an engine. Coat the cylinder walls lightly with some oil before putting it back together. They make engine assembly lube just for this. If you can't get this special lube then use car engine oil so there is no "dry" startup. Try to make it last as long as you can.

Hope you get the beast running again soon. Keep us updated-love to see people fix up old stuff like this. :encouragement:

SS

A little update, a couple of weeks ago I managed to clean off the old gaskets. Replaced the thermostat (which was stuck in open), replaced water jacket gasket and the blown head gasket. I did some measurements for compression and got like 135psi on top cylinder (bad one) and 145-150psi on bottom (good one).
I have the boat out of the river now, it ran great at around 25knots.

Is there anything I could tell from this? I have also gotten a service manual now so I'm planning to removing the powerhead in the spring. Should I clean up the carburator?

 

[South Paw]

Your compression readings are fine imho. On the carby, a clean never hurts but i would suggest, while time is not a factor, to order a rebuild kit and do it properly. I've been following this thread and i'm happy you've had some success.