Transom plywood is rotten, on inboard mercruiser 1990 thompson cutlass 190

[ChizelSpiel7]

I really dont want to go any further than replacing the transom. I would be ok with just the transom, if it buys me a couple of years. I got a bunch of other projects that i have neglected. My girl keeps asking when i'm going to finish her 91 alfa romeo spider. And i have couple of alfa romeo's myself to refurbish. And then my yamaha RZ350. I was so clueless when i bought this boat. I thought id be in the water in 1-2 months. Rude awakening. If there is rot beyond the transom, And there probably most likely is from what everyone is telling me. Im not getting that deep into it. But i may tackle the transom and maybe get a couple of years of use from it. Wishful thinking.

 

[random_rodder]

But i may tackle the transom and maybe get a couple of years of use from it. Wishful thinking.

Chizel,

I'm a noob at boats too. From my reading and discussions with quite a few people, I wouldn't go that route. If the stringers and bulkheads are rotted also, just replacing the transom is like putting a butterfly stitch in a sucking chest wound. Before I even towed my boat home, I knew I would have a ton of work to do with the engine alone; now I'm looking at it as a complete resto since the floors are so weak. I also understand not wanting add another project to the list. But, I wouldn't want to take a boat out on the water that had rotted stringers, bulkheads and floor after just having worked to replace the transom. That would flat scare the crap out of me. I would say either do it right the first time, or try to sell it as a project to someone else and maybe get your money back - I paid $500 for mine.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Just to add to the missery - From your pics it looks like someone tried to seal the outdrive to the transome with some sillycone on the outside of the boat. Thats a sure sign that the boat is taking on water. Unbolt the rams on the drive so it will come down so you can run it so it wont bind up the ujoints. Heck you could get anywere from $600.00 to $1200.00 bucks for the engine/ drive combo package.

Good luck!

 

[Chinewalker]

Having compromised structure in the boat is a recipe for disaster. A good wave, hitting a wake at an odd angle, or even the act of starting the engine, could break something catastrophically. You could bust open the hull and risk sinking. The engine could shift on rotted stringers and crack a fuel line, risking a fire. Not worth scaring the kids and wife if the unexpected - or worse - happens. Not trying to dissuade you from taking on the project, but see it through. Don't stop halfway...

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

Ur scaring me! Talk about getting scared straight. I'll take pictures if and when i do get this motor out. Then we'll go from there. Appreciate all of you're reality checks.

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

No Title

Started unbolting everything today in preporation to pull motor out. Drained water from the exhaust risers, Disconnected all the wires, bolts, elbows and pulled outdrive. Look how bad it looks inside the driveshaft bellows. Is there anything else I should do before i pull this motor out in a few days to a week?

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

No Title

Been looking on craigslist for boats just for the heck of it and look what popped up. It is a 1989 Wellcraft classic 190. The owner says it blew a rod recently. It uses the same motor as the one i have. I'm thinking about driving out to look at it. He said that it is kept in a dry storage, has no transom issues and outdrive was rebuilt 3 years ago. He said his rock bottom price is $1400.00... So what do you think? Maybe ditch repairing my rotted transom and whatever else may be lurking down there and use my good motor on the wellcraft, then part out my boat? Are wellcraft boats better made than my current thompson classic 190? is that a good price what he's asking, so long as everything checks out. Check out these pics.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

The more you will stay in the denial phase, the more "great" alternatives like this boat on Craigslist will seem very appealing and the more you will dig yourself deeper in the hole. What the owner says about his boat is irrelevant. Actually, it would make me more paranoid just to hear him saying this "Amazing condition" thing. I find it very hard to believe that a 26 years old boat is in as sound condition as he wants you to believe. i actually came across 2009 and 2010 boats with bad transoms


If you will take the boat from him based on his word, there is a good chance you will end up with two boats in desperate need for restoration.

I am not saying don't do it. If you want to use your current boat as a donor boat and get this one, it is your call. Just inspect the hell out that boat and never take the seller for his word. Stats don't lie but - statistically speaking - most boat owners do, about the boat they want to sell, that is.

If you find out that this "great deal boat" is actually a piece of junk, and most likely it is, I would focus all my energy on getting the one you have done and stop looking at cl deals for a while.

oh.... and please don't ask me how I know all of that. Somethings better stays between me and God

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

The more you will stay in the denial phase, the more "great" alternatives like this boat on Craigslist will seem very appealing and the more you will dig yourself deeper in the hole. What the owner says about his boat is irrelevant. Actually, it would make me more paranoid just to hear him saying this "Amazing condition" thing. I find it very hard to believe that a 26 years old boat is in as sound condition as he wants you to believe. i actually came across 2009 and 2010 boats with bad transoms


If you will take the boat from him based on his word, there is a good chance you will end up with two boats in desperate need for restoration.

I am not saying don't do it. If you want to use your current boat as a donor boat and get this one, it is your call. Just inspect the hell out that boat and never take the seller for his word. Stats don't lie but - statistically speaking - most boat owners do, about the boat they want to sell, that is.

If you find out that this "great deal boat" is actually a piece of junk, and most likely it is, I would focus all my energy on getting the one you have done and stop looking at cl deals for a while.

oh.... and please don't ask me how I know all of that. Somethings better stays between me and God

Point taken. He lives about an hour away, in bandera, tx. It would be a good excuse to ride the motorcycle out to the hill country.

 

[Woodonglass]

IF he will let you do "Drilled Core Samples" into the interior Transom, Stringers and Motor mounts and then fill them with 3M 5200 that you should take with you and you find ALL dry shavings, and he HAS documentation to back up all that he is saying about the boat's maintenance and care. AND he'll tak $1,000 CASH then yeah I'd prolly do the deal. But even then, Like DB says, it's still just a Crap Shoot!!!!

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

IF he will let you do "Drilled Core Samples" into the interior Transom, Stringers and Motor mounts and then fill them with 3M 5200 that you should take with you and you find ALL dry shavings, and he HAS documentation to back up all that he is saying about the boat's maintenance and care. AND he'll tak $1,000 CASH then yeah I'd prolly do the deal. But even then, Like DB says, it's still just a Crap Shoot!!!!

Wont hurt to ask. What size drill should be used when taking these core samples. I'm hoping i'll have my motor out within the next few days. I will be doing core samples as well and will be asking for advice.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Drilling with a 1/8" or 3/16" will provide enough shavings to see what's in there.

 

[Woodonglass]

Actually, I prefer 1/4" to 3/8". That size hole will NOT damage the transom or stringer in any way and will provide a much better sampling of the wood core. Put a piece of masking tape around the bit at the 1" mark so you don't go any deeper. It's up to you and the Owner what size bit to use.

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

Just got a text from the seller, that it has been sold. So im back to my original plan. Oh well.

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

Got the motor out of the boat yesterday. Today im going to start removing the gimble housing. Then what do i do? Take some core samples of wood and mesaure the thickness of the transom. I'll take some pictures when i get home after work.

 

[Bondo]

Then what do i do?

Ayuh,..... Determine how far the rot has spread, 'n how big of a patch you can get away with, 'n still be strong enough,....

Then carve out the hole ya need to glass in new plywood to get back to the keyhole, at 2", all 'round, true, 'n 'n even, anywhere the housin's touch. inside to out,....

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Start the demolition ASAP. I believe you have already inspected the transom and it has to be replaced. Now, take core samples from your stringers and bulkheads to determine the status. If they are shot, and most likely they are, keep removing until the last piece of rotted wood on this boat is out. You will not want to do this again anytime soon. If you are going full blown restoration, take a careful look at your gas tank. If it is pitted, trash it and replace it. Under deck tanks are almost impossible to replace - if they started to leak - without taking the deck apart.

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

No Title

Ok, here we go. PICS!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

As I said, it is time for core samples. stringers, bulkheads and deck. Document your findings. This process can have so many scopes depends on the status of the boat. You could be lucky and replace only the transom or you can go for a full restoration.

 

[ChizelSpiel7]

Ok, i will do core samples tomorrow. Do i do the core samples on the end of the engine mount stringers, at the end of the stringers where it meets the transom and the deck where it meets the transom? The Skinny little Stringer you see in the middle when looking at the picture of the keyhole, It is rotten right there where it meets the plywood going under the tank.. What is the purpose of that little skinny stringer?