3M 5200 vs Liquid Nail

[MR nova @#25]

Can I use Liquid Nails instead of 5200 to bond the stringers to the floor. I ask this because the Liquid Nail seems to have a little more body to it when it come to the thicker beads.

Thanks

 

[jigngrub]

Use PL Premium, I find liquid nails to be less than gratifying as time goes by if you want to pursue the "quick and easy".

... buy your best build will come from PB (peanut butter). A home made thickened/reinforced adhesive made from either polyester or epoxy resin (best).

 

[Woodonglass]

Yes, but...I wouldn't recommend bedding stringers with either one. I'd recommend using thickened polyester resin to bed your stringers. It's less expensive, stronger, easier to use and overall a much better method. Well I thought Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms


Well I thought I recognized your member name so I did a search and found the multiple threads you've posted on your boat restoration. This is why the forum has the rule about keeping all your posts about your boat restore together so it's not so confusing for other members to reply to you. I now realize that you are using epoxy soooo, the above advice needs to be revised to say that if you choose to use the thickened resin you should use thickened epoxy to bed your stringers to the hull and NOT thickened polyester resin. Epoxy will stick to poly but not the other way around.

 

[jbcurt00]

Is the question phrased differently on the other Topic? I read it as putting the PL in top of the stringers to bond them to the bottom of the DECK not bedding the stringers to the HULL.

 

[jigngrub]

I'd recommend using thickened polyester resin to bed your stringers. It's less expensive, stronger, easier to use and overall a much better method.

I now realize that you are using epoxy soooo, the above advice needs to be revised to say that you should use thickened epoxy to bed your stringers to the hull and NOT thickened polyester resin. Epoxy will stick to poly but not the other way around.

I already said that.

If he uses polyester resin to bed in his stringers and the epoxy resin to do his layups everything will be fine... but I strongly suspect he'll use epoxy for everything, which I already covered in post #2.

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, DUH, I keep telling you I AM an Old Dumb Okie!!! IT DOES say that!!!! All this time I thought I could Read And Comprehend!!! For that application I for sure would use the Liquid Nails or the PL and NOT the 5200 just for the PRICE!!!!

 

[Fastatv]

Can I use Liquid Nails instead of 5200 to bond the stringers to the floor. I ask this because the Liquid Nail seems to have a little more body to it when it come to the thicker beads.

Thanks

I have read this a couple of times...did you mean to say " bond stringers the hull of the boat " or.....bond floor/deck to the stringers. If your saying "bond deck/floor to stringers, then I would recommend PL Premium along with screws. Or that's what I did, and you may get many other opinions....all of which will probably work. Hey, how about some pics....?

 

[jigngrub]

Another couple of reasons why you wouldn't want to use 5200 to bed your stringers in is:

1. 5200 is a runny drippy mess, especially in large quantities. If you try to fill the 1/4" gap between your stringer and the hull with 5200 it'll run all over the place and you'll end up with a big pool of 5200 in your keel and none under your stringers.

2. 5200 is about $15 for a 10 oz. tube and PL Premium is $5 for the same amount.


If you use the PL or Liquid Nails you'll need to wait 72 hrs. for the adhesive to cure and quit off-gassing before you can start tabbing your stringers to the hull. If you use the home made PB you can start tabbing as soon as it sets.

 

[Auger01]

Pl premium and screws? That works great for a house.

 

[jigngrub]

Pl premium and screws? That works great for a house.

It does... works pretty well for boats too, I see quite a bit of it being used.

I think people choose to use the commercial adhesives for ease of use/installation, and it is easy and they'll do a good job if used properly... but we've seen some fails too, mainly trying to glass over the adhesive before it has cured and off gassed completely.

Screws... I love screws, and who doesn't love a good screw? Screws are OEM in boat manufacturing.

Trying to just weight plywood decking down is a bad idea IMO, unless you're going to drop the blade of a D10 on it. Put as much weight as you can fit into your boat on your decking you're going to install, then shoot some screws into the stringers. I guarantee you'll see the decking get pulled down tighter.

 

[MR nova @#25]

Woodon glass: Apparently I keep doing this wrong? How do I keep on topic and not have so many different post all over the Forum?
Thanks for your help.

 

[MR nova @#25]

JBCurt00: YES..

 

[MR nova @#25]

Do I leave the screws in, or remove them ?

 

[Rickmerrill]

Leave the screws in.

 

[jigngrub]

Do I leave the screws in, or remove them ?

If you used stainless steel screws I'd leave them in. If you used some other kind of screw I'd remove them after everything cures out. Then you can either replace them with stainless or leave them out and fill the holes with peanut butter or fairing compound before glassing your deck in.

 

[kcassells]

Whats your opinion on epoxy coated screws vs. stainless scresw?

 

[jigngrub]

Whats your opinion on epoxy coated screws vs. stainless scresw?

If the epoxy coating is on ferrous metal my opinion is very low.

I've tried several of the exterior grade metal fasteners that promise or guarantee they won't rust, but they always do in a boat. Even with me being fanatical about keeping my boat covered and dry they still rust! It's either stainless screws nuts, and bolts or aluminum rivets for me now.

Maybe it doesn't matter what the fastener is made out of after the adhesive has cured and the screw has been glassed over, it probably doesn't. I just find it repulsive to find rusted fasteners in my boat... and to watch the tear down on some of the project boats in this forum where you see rusted screws, nut, and bolts trying to be removed kinda gives me the willies.

 

[Axkiker]

For my build im attaching the deck to the stringers with screws and PL. I really like the PL as it seems to expand as it cures. This way if there are any voids or imperfections they should still be filled and bonded.

The only other option I could think of which I feel matches would be gorilla glue. I guess you could also use PB but you would need to work fast.

 

[jigngrub]

PB is the best adhesive, especially if you're using epoxy resin.

There are steps you can take to extend the pot life of PB, like working early in the morning when it's cooler and chilling your ingredients before mixing.

 

[kcassells]

If the epoxy coating is on ferrous metal my opinion is very low.
I've tried several of the exterior grade metal fasteners that promise or guarantee they won't rust, but they always do in a boat. Even with me being fanatical about keeping my boat covered and dry they still rust! It's either stainless screws nuts, and bolts or aluminum rivets for me now.
Maybe it doesn't matter what the fastener is made out of after the adhesive has cured and the screw has been glassed over, it probably doesn't. I just find it repulsive to find rusted fasteners in my boat... and to watch the tear down on some of the project boats in this forum where you see rusted screws, nut, and bolts trying to be removed kinda gives me the willies.

Thank you for the reply.