89 Astro Quickfire 18FS w/150HP Mercury Black Max

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
My first boat, purchased used in June, 2010; 1989 ASTRO QUICKFIRE 18FS with a Mercury 150HP Black Max. I had absolutely no knowledge of boats and large HP 2 cycle engines even though I have been a mechanic, drag racer, 4 cycle engine builder etc. for most of my life; also some minor fiberglass work on the race car.

The man I purchased the boat from was extremely friendly, said he purchased it new, it was “garage” kept, wanted to sell it because kids were grown and had other projects; we moved it out of his garage, he hooked up the water, showed me how to crank it etc. It started and ran great. I bought it, titled and licensed it and got it on the water in late July 2010. Enjoyed it immensely until late September when the engine locked up. Due to finances it took awhile to overhaul engine…#3 cylinder burnt a piston…I now know how a 2 cycle works and also how expensive it is to rebuild. Most of 2011 and 2012 were spent putting together funding and purchasing parts…$108 for one piston? :eek:OUCH! I bought a set of 8 for my 360 Dodge truck V8 for $120. Got engine finished and back on the water mid 2013, boat ran great.

July 2013, was on the water and started noticing driver’s seat was loose. While kneeling on the deck looking to see how it was attached, I put half of my 240 lbs. on one knee, through the deck into the foam. To conclude, upon closer examination I determined that the deck was rotten; upon closer examination I noticed the two bulkheads between the stringers were also rotten. Since I have been investigating and looking for info on I-Boats Forum, I was pretty sure I had major repairs to do. And as the following story unfolds, I will be asking for assistance from all you experts and non-experts alike.:D

I Plan on completely redoing the stringers, deck and possibly the transom; however at this point I cannot tell yet if transom is also rotten, but with everything I am reading on I-Boats forum, I am not going to bet against it. I will be drilling pilot holes in the lower transom in the next couple days. As the plan goes right now, this will be a complete “cap off” restoration. Since I am retired, I need something to do besides yard work etc., and hopefully the girl friend won’t mind me using the garage and won’t throw me out and maybe she won’t mind parking outside in the driveway.

Actually this first post is kind of late since I have already started the deconstruction and have the cap off as well as deck and most foam has been removed. I have beaucoup photos and will try to post them in some semblance of order with some captions as I go. I am thanking everyone in advance for any advice and knowledge coming my way. So here we go everyone.

This first photo is just a test to make sure I have it right.

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/DA...y/IRISH%20TIDE
 
Last edited:

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
After pulling up carpet:



Checking stringers:





Inside ski locker looking aft:



One more:

 

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
I know I can count on you and the other forum family Wood....more pictures to come as I sort thru the ones to post...I already have the engine removed, cap off, and hull on a cradle....will offer more info with the photo postings.....
 

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
Got pinned along time ago when you first started the map...Bartlett, TN....just next to Memphis...I am there.
 

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
Some more pics: As most of you can tell, I have pretty much already removed hatch covers, trim, etc. All of the wood behind the trim was rotten, as was the two front seats. I will keep posting pics and if anyone has any questions ask, if anyone has any advice send it. I am just about to the point of cutting out the stringers and drilling the transom to check for rot. The actual progress is ahead of my photo posting...sorry.





These next two photos show my first area of concern, it seems that while the cap is attached around the outer edge of the hull like most boats, there is a "flanged" area on the inside that is screwed into the deck. It was only later as future photos will show, that I discovered the deck is only 3/8" plywood. I had planned on using 1/2" ply for the deck and am now wondering if raising the interior of the cap will affect the alignment on the hull along the rub rail.




 

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
I hope I am doing the links to other threads correctly.

I removed the motor using an engine hoist purchased from Harbor Freight. I placed it on an engine stand that I built following the directions from this thread. I followed the directions for the most part…made mine just a little larger…Thanks to dh4winn79 for the information.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

#5 “Building your own outboard motor stand.”

I built a cradle for the boat and got the basic specs from Friscoboater’s thread. Here is the link…I think!!

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...vx-18-complete-restoration-thread-585518.html

I believe it starts on about page 71. I used some of his idea…but not all. I will definitely recommend using the large casters, I tried it with smaller ones and the boat just was almost impossible for just me to roll around. I swapped out larger ones from Northern Tool and it rolls without any problem now.

More photos:









 

Daniel1947

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
267
Looked like spray foam was used on the inside of the hull.





With some help of about 5 neighbors, we got the cap completely off and set it on the trailer. Also was able to get the boat and cradle turned completely around so the bow was in first and the aft section was at the garage door. This will allow me to use the hose to wash the hull out when grinding. It is good to have neighbors willing to help.

Just large blocks of floatation foam:

 
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