New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats:)

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Hello all!
Thanks for taking the time to read my rather lengthy post, and for all of the opinions and advice that you are (hopefully) going to share!

It has been a lifelong dream of mine to own a bass boat. After discussion with my absolutely wonderful wife, we've determined that as my oldest son just turned 7 and wanted a fishing pole for his birthday, now is the time.

I am limited on funds, but not on various skills and time. (I am currently not working due to a rather severe injury that has had me unable to work for over a year now.) I don't do debt either, so if you combine all of the above info, it just screams of used boat that needs a lot of work!

So after perusing Craigslist, and using my vast knowledge of boats (Which can be summed up by two words... Oooooh Floatythingy) I found a 'gentleman' who had a boat for sale that needed work. He was pretty honest .. ahem... on his ad, and over the phone. In usual fashion he downplayed the downsides, but honestly, I was expecting that.
So, for a whopping 350.00, I drove off with the following:

1983 Skeeter Wrangler: 16'2", a Mercury 115hp Outboard, and a trailer. (Had to provide my own tie downs, and man, that's a tale...)

So here's the skinny:
(I've re-written this so many times... I'm chatty and don't want to overload you'all, so here's the basic details)

1983 Skeeter Wrangler
Exterior Hull is immaculate.
All of the fiberglass of the cap is in superb condition. It's lost it's luster, but I found no soft spots or damage.
The Transom is solid as a rock, it shows no damage and does not as much as budge when I shake the motor.
All of the gages are in good looking condition, I am unsure of their function yet.
All of the dash switches and labels are present and clean looking.
All of the carpet is completely shot.
The wiring is questionable to the extent I'm going to replace it.
The motor is missing the (Lower end?).. prop/starter etc.. Other than that, I don't know if it runs.
No battery.

Now, I expected to replace all of the carpet, all of the wiring, and repainting the boat. I even expected some wood work, as he said the wood flooring (the only wood I knew about) was rotten and would need to be replaced.

So, I get to scooping the leaves and boat parts out, trying to get down to see this rotting wood, and what do you know, the little spade I was using went right through like it was wood colored craft paper. ... oh boy.
So I perused the forums here and found out about this thing called a Stringer. Yeah, I didn't know what that was until yesterday. So I check and not only are they rotten, but they are basically wood soup.
Funny thing is.. I'm really not upset, I laughed, said 'figures' and kept cleaning the boat.

So, it looks like I get to do a Stringer repair!!

So, my skill sets are Formerly ASE Certified Mechanic (auto), Blacksmith (Instructor Level), Woodcraft (Custom furniture, boxes, turnings, and 10+ years of carpentry experience), Confidence Level: Hold my beer and watch this.

My boating experience: Hey look!! The soap floats in the bathtub!! .. oh, and I watched the love boat growing up.

So here's my thought process, and you guys tell me how much of newb I'm being, and correct me with the loving hands of experience and patience!

1. I need to remove the cap from the hull -> To do this, I need to drill the rivets, remove the rub rail, throw some rocks at the neighbors cat, and presto, the magic cap fairies will appear and it will separate right off.
2. I will need to dig out the soupy stringers, clean the area really good, and create two perfectly formed stringers custom made by me and the yard gnome, Install them and seal them real well (I am hearing good things about a product called 'West'?)
3. I am curious, if after it's all sealed and dried, if it would benefit any at all to rubber coat the hull on the inside, hurt/help/indifferent?
4. I am also curious if it would benefit to add either pour foam or foam block while the hull is off.
5. While I have the cap suspended in mid air with the sheer power of my chi, Would this be the best time to rewire the boat using these nifty diagrams that I downloaded from the internet? Or should I wait until the boat is back together?
6. Is the Hull/Cap sealed with any kind of epoxy? Will I have to cut it?
7. What the crap is that smell coming from under my computer desk?

I'm sorry this post has been so long, but I give you ... props... if you made it this far!

(Also, the boat is missing all the little chrome details, like the cleats, night lights, and such.. what's the best place to get little goodies like that?)

Pics:
For some reason I can't get them to post on here, so here's the album with high def pics
1983 Skeeter Wrangler Restoration Project Photos by YMCASoccerPhotos | Photobucket

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

1983 Skeeter Wrangler
Exterior Hull is immaculate.
All of the fiberglass of the cap is in superb condition. It's lost it's luster, but I found no soft spots or damage.
The Transom is solid as a rock, it shows no damage and does not as much as budge when I shake the motor.
All of the gages are in good looking condition, I am unsure of their function yet.
All of the dash switches and labels are present and clean looking.
All of the carpet is completely shot.
The wiring is questionable to the extent I'm going to replace it.
The motor is missing the (Lower end?).. prop/starter etc.. Other than that, I don't know if it runs.
No battery.

Now, I expected to replace all of the carpet, all of the wiring, and repainting the boat. I even expected some wood work, as he said the wood flooring (the only wood I knew about) was rotten and would need to be replaced.


So, it looks like I get to do a Stringer repair!!

So, my skill sets are Formerly ASE Certified Mechanic (auto), Blacksmith (Instructor Level), Woodcraft (Custom furniture, boxes, turnings, and 10+ years of carpentry experience), Confidence Level: Hold my beer and watch this.

My boating experience: Hey look!! The soap floats in the bathtub!! .. oh, and I watched the love boat growing up.

So here's my thought process, and you guys tell me how much of newb I'm being, and correct me with the loving hands of experience and patience!

1. I need to remove the cap from the hull -> To do this, I need to drill the rivets, remove the rub rail, throw some rocks at the neighbors cat, and presto, the magic cap fairies will appear and it will separate right off.
Basically yes however you might find some glue/fiberglass tabs and sections that are attached to the hull. A hammer, a saw, a place to put the cap and a few friends will have it off quickly. (Hint remove the motor first) Be careful removing thr rub rail since it will be re-used and costs ALLOT of money!

2. I will need to dig out the soupy stringers, clean the area really good, and create two perfectly formed stringers custom made by me and the yard gnome, Install them and seal them real well (I am hearing good things about a product called 'West'?)
West is an epoxy and there are many on the market. I personally use epoxy made by another company which is cheaper and just as strong. You could also use fiberglass resin which is yet again cheaper.

3. I am curious, if after it's all sealed and dried, if it would benefit any at all to rubber coat the hull on the inside, hurt/help/indifferent? NOPE no benefit at all so just get rid of that thought. It would create future nightmares!

4. I am also curious if it would benefit to add either pour foam or foam block while the hull is off. Many people use 2 part foam and an equal amount use 2" foam boards from home depot/lowes - they both work.

5. While I have the cap suspended in mid air with the sheer power of my chi, Would this be the best time to rewire the boat using these nifty diagrams that I downloaded from the internet? Or should I wait until the boat is back together? Wiring is a seperate part of the project and it will fall into place as the project progresses. The key to the wiring is to use marine grade wire (Available from iboats or interstate battery stores) which is pre-tinned. Regular wire does not last. Many things are labeled marine to make extra money but the electrical parts are mad with good wire, brass and stainless steel.

6. Is the Hull/Cap sealed with any kind of epoxy? Will I have to cut it? SEE Item 1 above and yes there may be some cutting involved.

7. What the crap is that smell coming from under my computer desk? It is the Earth leaking sewerage and the smell is coming from under your house foundation Yes you will have to remove the sill plates and jack the entire home up 30' as a minimum...... but that's covered in another area of iboats under "Non-boating technical" OR you could change your diet!


(Also, the boat is missing all the little chrome details, like the cleats, night lights, and such.. what's the best place to get little goodies like that?) http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Accessories/dm/

Pics: Consult this post for photo posting http://forums.iboats.com/non-boating-technical-topics/how-posting-pictures-videos-533219.html
For some reason I can't get them to post on here, so here's the album with high def pics
1983 Skeeter Wrangler Restoration Project Photos by YMCASoccerPhotos | Photobucket

You have not shown anything unique or new to the restoration forum. The outboard can be diagnosed and lower units are available usually via fleabay or craigslist. The inline 6 cylinders are picky beasts but are good motors.

For the Mercury outboard Mercury & Mariner Outboards

People here will not hold back and they call it the way they see it. I see a ton of work ahead and a HUGE monetary investment between the boat and motor. You did get a good trailer and the motor has usable parts. Yes, you did okay for your money.

Everything you need for your boat is available here on iboats. We have fiberglass/epoxy supplies/foam....... just about everything for the restoration and repair. The customer service is great and the amount of advice is great. There are those of us here that have been repairing and working with boats for well over 40-50 years. Look around - browse - look at the completed project section.

Our rules are fairly simple and the best way is to continue in this post with your restoration. There is no need to start new threads with every step of the way.

And as far as that smell under your computer desk..... we have many Doctor's that are iboats member's and some have even gotten their license back!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

You bought a donor boat and paid $350 for the trailer, the rest of the stuff was free. The missing items from the boat and motor were stripped off because the boat doesn't run and wasn't seaworthy.

I think you'll find power head damage and/or expensive or obsolete parts need replacing on the motor when you get into it, the lower unit and anything else missing on the motor were they only good things left.

The materials to rebuild your hull will cost about $1500, this will be for the lumber, fiberglass cloth and mat, and the polyester (fiberglass) resin. Fiberglass boat restoration/repair is expensive and people on a budget usually discover they can't afford it.

You may want to consider removing anything of value left on the boat and dumping the hull, sell whatever you can find that's still good on the boat and the trailer to recoup some of your loses.

Aluminum boats are cheaper and easier to work on if you're on a budget, and they float and catch just as many fish as the fiberglass ones do.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Welcome to the iboats dry dock.

Get some pix of the motor w/ out it's shroud, it is the big question mark at this point. Might be salvageable, and the Merc motor forum will help w/ that. But missing the lower unit entirely does suggest that the motor isn't running right & the lower was removed & used elsewhere.

If it was a lower unit problem, I'd expect the busted unit to still be present. Until you found a replacement, wouldn't you have kept the busted one to make sure you had everything you needed on the replacement unit. Prop, driveshaft, case.... Unless it was an extreme catastrophic failure, in which case the powerhead may have also been damaged.

The model # or serial# will help you find parts for the motor. FYI Merc outboards parts can be pricy. The last time someone posted an 'Is this old Merc OB worth fixing' thread, the distributor cap alone was nearly $300, no rotor/plug wires, cap only....

The boat can be repaired and it's layout changed to suit you. But it will be a costly & time consuming process.

As noted, you did OK for the trailer, the motor might have some decent parts & be worth some effort to decide to repair it or part it out/sell it as a parts motor. The hull is a project hull. The only limiting factor is your access to some basic tools, enough skill to use them, the desire to do this type of work (once is enough for most), space to work safely (for you & others), time to get the project done, and not a small amount of money.

But doing a boat resto you can spend a little as you go, doing smaller portions of the whole project as time & funding allows, end up w/ a great boat, no long term debt, and be able to say:

Yep, I rebuilt her from the keel up

as you happily back down the ramp & speed off to your favorite fishing spot.

Check out other projects in the resto forum & the completed project section. LOTS of good stuff floating around in here...........

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Welcome to iBoats!

Since you're not working and low on funds, You need to know up front that your budget to make this a usable boat with the Motor repairs and the boat repairs etc... will easily be $2,500 to $3,500 dollars. Your Man Hours to get her on the water will be some where in the neighborhood of 150 to 200 hrs. There's a LOT of resources here on this forum that will show and tell you everything you'll need to know about what needs to be done so that won't be an issue. If you want to continue with this restoration then we'll be more than happy to help and guide you through the process. Just want to make sure you're aware of the costs and time a labor commitments required to "Git er Dun!!!!"

 

[SnapperMassacre]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Welcome, so far most have said keep parts and look for another boat. You have a nice trailer and lots of usable parts. Have you considered a Spira boat? A plywood boat covered in fiberglass? You buy plans and build in your backyard. Then put it on your 350 dollar trailer. Jeff Spira has a few nice fishing boat styles that are really affordable and dont require a full gutting and then hope that your cap fits back on your hull if you dont support the hull when replacing the stringers. And you wont have 3500 in materials to start from scratch. If the merc is ok, its a sell and use to get a nice 50 horse for your new boat! Check out his site.... I'm not even a customer yet but my plans are for a panga style to use here on the Gulf. Spira Boats - Easy to Build Boat Plans im not affiliated in anyway with him.

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

All excellent advice, and I am thankful for it!

I should clarify my situation a little better, I apologize for any confusion.
Though I am not working, I still draw pay as it was job related.
I make more than enough to pay my bills and have a little extra here and there, and my wife works a little part time job.
(I can also make a little doing small projects right now.)

When I say I don't like debt and live on a budget, I simply am inferring that I prefer to pay as I go, and save up for what I need. I'm not a 'get a loan and do it all now' type

This is my viewpoint, and I guess an important question to ask knowledgeable people:
If you came across a fully restored, rebuilt from the keel up, perfect running 1983 Skeeter Wrangler HP-150, would it be worth $2500.00?
(Also, how much is the pride of knowing that your blood, sweat, tears, and effort have gone into every inch of it?)

I will begin the process of stripping her down, I will take pictures and post new ones here on this thread as I go.
If ever anything is noticed that catches your eyes that is a 'deal breaker' on a restoration like this, I'm sure you'll let me know.

Meanwhile, I get to spend time in the forums, learning from knowledgable people!
Even if I wind up with a decent trailer and a pile of experience to haul off... what an adventure!

Oh, and as I didn't find this question asked or answered yet on the forums; I assume the cap would need to be stored flat (as opposed to on it's side against a wall) so would it be best to build a custom frame to hold it while I work on the hull, or would just resting it on the ground be sufficient? (Warpage being a concern I guess...)

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Bass Boat caps are a different Breed. Once you get all the rivets drilled out and possibly the transom portion cut out if she's glued together back there as many are, and if she's a foamed hull you may have the thrill of trying to get the foam to realease from the deck as well. Getting the cap free from the hull can be a challenge and then again it may not be that bad. You'll just have to see what happens. 2x4's and saw horses make good storage racks but you can also clamp it between some 2x4's and lean it up against the wall as well. All depends on how you want to do it and your availability. The PDF file and link below will give you an idea of some of the materials you'll be needing.

Click the Pic to Download and View the PDF File

View attachment MaterialsList.pdf

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[jigngrub]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

This guy did a good job removing his cap by himself in post #27:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...tri-hull-transom-destroyed-help-578908-2.html

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

The PDF file and link below will give you an idea of some of the materials you'll be needing. /QUOTE]

Excellent resource! Thank you!

 

[Cptkid570]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Welcome to iboats, a few of my opinions:

1. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with bass boats, so am I correct to assume that the cap has to come off in order to access the stringers? I guess I'm just trying to figure out why you need to take off the cap. And, if the cap has to come off for that, how do you know they are mush? (Just making sure I'm not missing something).

2. I was glad to see that you didn't get discouraged when you heard everyone's overall price of the project. If you have an inexpensive place to buy materials, then you could save some money on the hull restoration. As noted by someone above, you don't have to use the most expensive of fiberglass's, just a cheap resin will probably do you just fine.

3. 115hp is pretty powerful for a 16' boat. I know that bass fisherman like to fly around the lake going 60mph, but unless you are in that much of a rush to get to your fishing spot (and you won't be with a 7 year old on board), then, keep an eye out for a good running 50hp while you are doing your project. You don't need anything brand new, you are a mechanic and can keep a motor running for a while I'm sure. Heck, you may find a 50hp for like $600, find inexpensive wood and fiberglass, and have it ready to fish without going over $1500.

4. Are there any marine salvage yards close to you? Maybe you could find some used cleats and such from there. If not, you may be able to find everything you need at Walmart instead of a fancy marine store.

5. Why do you think you need to replace the wires? Were they removed or do they just look old? Again, salvage yard item if you have one close by. Question for the group -- are marine wires different than car wires? Could you strip out a car's, say, brake light wires from a junk yard and use them in a boat? Just wondering. I'm sure that would be dirt cheap at an auto junk yard.

6. Take plenty of photos, we like looking at them.

Good luck!!!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

1) if the deck (floor) has soft spots it's actually part of the cap, not the same type of 'cap' on a typical runabout, see bass boat construction elsewhere @iboats. Cap off also gives better access to the transom and the knee braces that are typical in a bass boat to accomodate the big hp motors you comment on in another statement/question

2) cheap resin & inexpensive (compared to some) are not equal. Not all resins are the same, wax vs un-waxed, laminating resin (#435 @ US Comps) vs general purpose resin (not for structural work). See US Comp's site description of each.

3)I think the 115 Merc motor isn't going to be an actual candidate for this rig when you look into the cost to get it running. Maybe, but I doubt it. I also think the $1500 all in resin/materials & motor is low. How low depends on how the boat gets finished out, seats, wiring, gauges, trailer rehab, etc. Finding a good low cost suitable motor may be challenging, but isn't impossible. May take some time, so start looking NOW.

4) Salvage cleats & boat/trailer parts & pieces may fit the budget, if you have access to them. Craigslist & other local/online sources can be low cost as well. But watch for shipping costs making the parts no longer the low cost item you thought they were. It's often more cost effective, if you have room, to buy another whole rig: Boat, motor & trailer, strip off what you need, sell what you can, and haul the rest to the landfill. Maybe why this boat is stripped down some & missing a lower unit.

5) Marine wiring is different then standard or automotive wiring. Marine wire is tinned to reduce the chance of corrosion & electrical faults. I wouldn't use junk yard auto wiring for anything on a boat.

6) Yep, pix pix pix. Many of us use photobucket, it's a free online service...

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Welcome to iboats, a few of my opinions:

1. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with bass boats, so am I correct to assume that the cap has to come off in order to access the stringers? I guess I'm just trying to figure out why you need to take off the cap. And, if the cap has to come off for that, how do you know they are mush? (Just making sure I'm not missing something).
The floor area near the steering wheel (I don't know what that area of the cap is called) was completely mushed. I didn't even have to use a tool to remove the wood. I dug out an area from the live well to the seats. It's all rotten.
I am uploading a video as I type this, you'll see the knife effortlessly penetrate all the way through the stringer.)

2. I was glad to see that you didn't get discouraged when you heard everyone's overall price of the project. If you have an inexpensive place to buy materials, then you could save some money on the hull restoration. As noted by someone above, you don't have to use the most expensive of fiberglass's, just a cheap resin will probably do you just fine.
I am an annoying deranged optimist. I don't just see the glass as half full, I see it as an opportunity for me to find a cow, milk it, pasteurize the milk, and fill it myself. Plus I get to meet a farmer, a truck driver, and I get to drink a fresh glass of milk... ya baby!

3. 115hp is pretty powerful for a 16' boat. I know that bass fisherman like to fly around the lake going 60mph, but unless you are in that much of a rush to get to your fishing spot (and you won't be with a 7 year old on board), then, keep an eye out for a good running 50hp while you are doing your project. You don't need anything brand new, you are a mechanic and can keep a motor running for a while I'm sure. Heck, you may find a 50hp for like $600, find inexpensive wood and fiberglass, and have it ready to fish without going over $1500.
I know nothing about boat motors or output. I'm not a speed demon, so I'll make decisions there as I learn more.
I'm really looking forward to learning about the differences between auto engines and outboards. But hey, if it has combustion and moves, I'm all over it

4. Are there any marine salvage yards close to you? Maybe you could find some used cleats and such from there. If not, you may be able to find everything you need at Walmart instead of a fancy marine store.
I have no idea... but thanks to your post, I know what I'm researching next

5. Why do you think you need to replace the wires? Were they removed or do they just look old? Again, salvage yard item if you have one close by. Question for the group -- are marine wires different than car wires? Could you strip out a car's, say, brake light wires from a junk yard and use them in a boat? Just wondering. I'm sure that would be dirt cheap at an auto junk yard.
The reason for the total rewire is two fold. This boat has been messed with with the belief that it will never again touch the water as a whole unit. I am unsure what's been stripped, what's been damaged, and what's got corrosion where.
Having had to inch by inch trace a short in a car (wire harness mess), I would prefer to know the wire is done right, trust it, and know the connections are solid before I'm out on the water and discover a problem. Also, I can use a more modern product that the 30 year old wires that are in there. According to an above response, auto and marine wire differ in corrosion resistance.
If I am incorrect in any of my thinking, I am hoping someone here will straiten me out!

6. Take plenty of photos, we like looking at them.
I will be photoing and videoing the entire process, not only for documentation, but also with the hopes that I can help someone else in the future.

Good luck!!!

Thank you! I look forward to your help as I progress!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Be careful if you are on disability. They send private investigators at random to see if claimers are honest. Lots of people get there claim revoked and face legal charges if PIs can prove they are capable of activities that contradict the claim foundation. This comment might not apply to you at all and I do not mean to insinuate anything. It just happen that I heard something similar on the radio when I was driving back home and thought I would share it as food for thoughts; that is all.

 

[Cptkid570]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

I second that. Same goes for work comp. If you were hurt on the job and are collecting off of work comp, they will sent people out to video tape you doing stuff and try to prove that you can work again. So, keep yourself as anonymous as possible on here and be careful when working on the boat out in the open, you never know if big brother is watching.

As an auto mechanic, you would be very suited for an inboard/outboard boat, but if your dream was to have a bass boat, then you have to stick with an outboard. I doubt you will have any problems with learning them though.

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Oh man I really wish I was able to work. I'd go back in a heartbeat. I was on the verge of starting my own company!
I am in the commercial pest control industry.
I fell from the second story attic of a business and landed on sloped plywood, slid down that plywood and into a stud wall.

I damaged both Ulnar and Radial nerves, tore my bicep tendon, bulged a disc in my neck, and damaged a disc in between my shoulder-blades. I have gone through a nerve relocation surgery, 4 cortisone shots, 19 visits of physical therapy, 2 MRIs, 2 EMGs, and I still only have partial use of my right arm. I can do basic little stuff such as hold a coffee cup, balance myself, drive.
Anything that causes pronation in my arm, lifting any weight, even 'Talking with my hands' causes pain and numbness.
I've developed Distal Bicep Tendonosis, so I'm facing dual tendon repair, and depending on this next set of MRIs, I'm most likely facing surgery on my neck. If they'll even operate.

I wish I could do something that they would accuse me of being able to go back to work.
I rely on power tools and friends to get stuff done (and I'm pretty inventive).

I do not feel that either of you were insinuating anything, and I greatly appreciate your concern!
I'm doing all I can to stay off of disability! I'm only 36 and have many years of financial growth available to me still!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

No offense, but with those type of injuries, do you really think you can do the labor required to restore a boat??? I'm thinking if you can then you can go back to your pest control business cuz it won't require some of the physical things the boat restoration will.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

^^^ bummer, but good for you for having a I CAN do it, just have to figure out the how, plenty of WILL

Hope they opt to make sure you're as comfortable & full functioning as possible, whatever that takes. Multiple surgeries & follow-ups can be tough to maintain a positive outlook.

I'm sure it all wouldn't have been possible w/out a great support system at home too.

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

OK! So I got two videos up on Youtube!
One is a walk through of the boat and the second is of the motor with the shroud removed!
(I do apologize about the grunting, but I don't get around like I used to... and well, I'm fat and out of shape

This is a full walk-through of the boat:

 

[Small Saddle Wedgie]

Re: New to Forums -> New to boating -> Old hat at restoration, just not boats

Video of the Motor: