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Dixie boat 170 , Floor , Transom , Stringers Rebuild. big job

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  • Dixie boat 170 , Floor , Transom , Stringers Rebuild. big job

    Goodday everyone, I'm beginning my task of a total rebuild on the hull of my Dixie, I seen a few people who have done this before on this form also been doing a lot of research, I did a floor restore a few years ago before I found these forms and I remember the stringers were not in good shape , thow I replaced the floor and sealed up, I admit I did a rookie mistake, now I am doing a semi hull gut to fit it right, what is making me belive my hull is bad , I live on a larger lake northern Ontario called nippissing, some may know it others,,, its big, the 4 foot waves I hit with this it will flex the boat enouph to have my center window fall down out of its place, even when locked... hopfully you know what I mean by that. obiously the boat is in need of repair. anyone who would like to give some assistance or advice your more than welcome, this is my first project on this form but I like how helpful everyone is, I will take photos for all this and maybe I can help some other poor shmuck rebuild his Dixie.
    http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

  • #2
    I closed the topic you started last night in the Boat Topics forum

    This is the right place for it. For future reference, just ask a Mod to move any topic you think would get better traffic in a different forum. Try to avoid starting duplicate topics in multiple forums.

    Good luck w your project
    Money spent @ Boat Restoration should be measured in Smiles & Pride SHOP IBOATS-BOAT SPECS-FORUM HELP-REPAIR/RESTO

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    • #3
      Thank you for that, I'm newer to starting topics, after I realised It was in wrong spot I was not sure how to close the second list, also thank you for that, hoping to get this project started any day now, and use all these marine minds to help.
      http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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      • #4
        Well today was a nice day to I disided to start some demo. I have the carpet and floor out. I cut the bow fiberglass out so I would be able to access the full stringers ( I seen this teqneek on another Dixie hull repair on this.form ) I have some large bunks of fiberglass at the transom end of the boat. I'm not sure what the purpose of these are. But tomorrow il be continuing to cut them out. Motor will be coming off tomorrow as well. I'm planning on cutting half the top cover of the boat. Just so I'm able to access the rear portion of the boat no sence taking it all off.. Any advice is greatly appreshiated. ( don't mind my spelling. I'm using a cellular phone. )
        http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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        • #5
          I'm trying to upload photos but I'm getting this File exceeds PHP's file-size limit of 2.00 MB....
          http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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          • #6
            http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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            • #7
              Welcome to iBoats! Looks like you've got a good start. I'd highly recommend you open a free Photobucket account to upload your pics. Then copy and past the IMG Code to iBoats. Much easier and it will automatically size your pics for you. These two links should help you get started...

              Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

              MaterialsList.pdf
              Last edited by Woodonglass; March 15th, 2016, 09:28 PM.
              1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
              Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
              Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

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              • #8
                Thanks wood I will look into that .. It is a big pain to re crop my photos to a recommended size.. Today was somewhat predictive. Took the motor off. And cleaned out all the extra foam. Rain started coming down to shut down the project for today. But can someone tell me what kind of fiberglass j should get.. I seen the forms about using the real expensive stuff and I'm 100% for it. But I want to use good material but not brake the bank. Same with resin. Or how could I swing it with using apoxy for some stuff and poly for others... Same with using woven fiberglass and the loose sheet.. i don't want to compromise strength but just trying to make a safe boat and still be able to feed my kids!!! Hopefully that is possible... Thanks gents! And or genties!
                http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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                • #9
                  hey Carp,
                  Welcome aboard! Nice project boat. Read Woods links that will show you the way to go with glass and resins. There's poly and EEEEpppoxy, your choice. Poly is less expensive and @ 100% boat mfg's use that for their boats. You'll need to source out the suppliers that make sense to use in regards to freight costs.
                  Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                  1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                  http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                  http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump

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                  • #10
                    thanks Kcass, i think i will go with polly for most of the boat and eppoxy on the transom where i am most conserned,, i have been looking up asmuch of woods posts as i can find about the matter and i have to say. that fellah is very knowlagable, so thus im hoping i can use both in the same project,, epoxy is stronger so potentially a better fit for transom, then polly is still strong and there will be much more in qualtity so better matched for stringers and floor,,,, i may be right out to much im doing to continue reading any foam i can find on the matter also a few more questions im running into but thats where i am so far with that,,
                    http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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                    • #11
                      i have also come to the idea i will be taking off my top cap, i was only going to cut half way then re fiberglass afterwords but a few .... how do i say.... " hack jobs " made me rethink this. the bumper,, or the metal fitting that the rivets go threw to hold both top cap and hull together, it was cased in auto body bondo,, then after abit of digging i find abunch of screws all mix matched holding it all together, just a mess, so i disided to topen it right up, would be better accesss and let me fix the mess the previous bozo created, i took a photo for your viewing pleasure. much of the fiberglass that gets rivetted too is all shewed away, il have to redo alot of those lips,, i seen on some foarms where the lined the rim with 1/4 plywood,,, little 2 inch strips,, gives it better rigitty also riviting streigth,, another one of my thoughts.. thanks for your input!
                      http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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                      • #12
                        In regards to0 using Poly and EEEpoxy just be aware the ploy does not bond well to EEEpoxy but EEEpoxy bonds to poly. So be careful, there really is no need to mix it up just for chance of a mistake.
                        The pic looks like there might have been a rub rail of sorts that's missing. Typically the rub rail is scewed to the hull , then covered over with rubber for a bump gaurd. The screws would be exposed if the bump gaurd was off then the when the screws are removed you can then seperate the cap. Sometimes with ot without difficulty.
                        Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                        1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                        http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                        http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          that is exactly what it is kcass, it is the metal half of the rub rail, i suppose the PO didnot want to spend the extra money investing in the rubber thus a jug of bondo was good enough for him,, il be keeping the original peaces , they are still find alittle wire brushing and some slight bending , hopfully good as new then buy the proper rub rail rubber to fit, also you answered my thought with the poly and EEEpoxy,, il just stick to poly, i read also that poly is a better sut if your colder weather, and that it will be up here,, not arctic but not florida if you know what i mean! a nice medium, plus the price works well for me, i have another question to storm your mind about! i assume you seen my few photos of the stringers, when the boat was being used sence i owned it ( 7 years now ) every wave it would flex very hard, enough the center windsheild would fall out of place, is it possible i add and or box some of those stringers it would give more streigth.. i assume it will but im not a boat expert, just a dump paratrooper, also same goes for the thickness of stringers, they are 1/2 thick ply, using 3/4 would make it heavyer but also would it give a more forgiving smooth ride? Thanks for your continued assistance!
                          http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ebuild-big-job

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                          • #14
                            3/4 ply is good { no treated lumber!**. Exterior grade ply only or the other marine grade woods or plastics. All Add a little $$ to the bottom line.
                            Stick to the original layout. Once all is glassed back in there won't be any flexing and better than factory build. You can though add or consider storage boxes below deck if you want at this time. Poly is super fine and very cost effective.
                            Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                            1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                            http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                            http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              Good looking boat. I used epoxy on my first build and it was easy to use. But very expensive. I used poly on my second build and once I got use to the mixing and dry times I really liked. And it's one third the price. It will out last you if it's laid right and won't break your bank. And listen to these others guys. They some smart they is.
                              As in people, there comes a time in your life when you realize what boat will always matter, what boat does matter, & what boat never did. So don't worry about the boats from your past, there's a reason why they didn't make it to your future. .

                              1978 MFG Gypsy Rebuild Thread
                              1978 MFG Gypsy Rebuild Video
                              First Launch After Rebuild
                              1979 Sunray SW149 Bow Rider Rebuild Video
                              1976 Sunray Boat Floating At The Wharf

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