70's era 15' Yarcraft yankee project question

[oba97]

Before I get to much farther along I want to clarify somthing. The shavings I get from the transom are not black but they are not like drilling a fresh 2x4 either, just look a deeper brown color. I have put a lot of force on the motor and dont see any signs of stess. I want to do whats right but also dont want to finish pulling the cap off and find the transom to be ok.

 

[Woodonglass]

How many holes did you drill in the transom and at what locations??

 

[oba97]

I drilled 3 in the lower 3rd of transom close to the middle. I had a hard time catching the shavings. When I get home I will drill couple more and try and get a pic of the wood shavings

 

[oba97]

No Title

This was taken from about 2" below the mounting bolts near the bottom of the transom

 

[oba97]

any thoughts on the shavings??

 

[Woodonglass]

They look dark to me...Are they wet/damp??

 

[oba97]

def not wet but maybe a little damp. It's been sitting inside a garage for 5 years so no exposure to water in a long time. I might just be trying to talk myself out of pulling the cap, when I know what the correct answer is.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

def not wet but maybe a little damp. It's been sitting inside a garage for 5 years so no exposure to water in a long time. I might just be trying to talk myself out of pulling the cap, when I know what the correct answer is.

Well said, enough said.

 

[Woodonglass]

"Denial...Ain't just a River in Egypt" Mark Twain

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Obviously Mark never been to Egypt

 

[oba97]

No Title

For the life of me I cannot get this pulled out am I missing something? Any ideas?

 

[oba97]

Anyone? I'm hoping to get this undone tonight so I can lift it out tomorrow. I have a feeling I'm missing something obvious.

 

[oba97]

Never mind. I got it.

 

[oba97]

No Title

Ok. I have another issue. I pulled the motor, removed the run rail I can split the two halves except the transom area will not budge! I tried cutting between the top of the transom and the splahwell but didn't get anywhere. This thing does not want to budge at all!! What are the chances that the splash well is epoxied to the inside of the transom? Here are a couple of pics.... One is looking from the outside the other from the inside.

 

[oba97]

No Title

Success!!! I had to cut the top of the transom cap off and wedge between the splash wall and transom. Lots of sweat, swearing and second guessing myself but it's free. I'll have to reattach the part I cut off but I'll worry about that later. As it turns out the splash wall was glued to the transom! Here are some pics.

 

[oba97]

Any issues with the cap resting on the hull on 3 2x4 for a couple of weeks? Even further....can I work in the inside removing the floor while its resting on top?

 

[ondarvr]

Any issues with the cap resting on the hull on 3 2x4 for a couple of weeks? Even further....can I work in the inside removing the floor while its resting on top?

If it's supported correctly it makes no difference to the cap where it's sitting, you are the only one that can say if it works for you.

 

[oba97]

I just about have the floor out and will be ready to work on removing the transom and stringers. In a previous post in this thread I had asked about temps for doing fiberglass work, didnt get much of a response. I have read a lot and found that 60 seems to be the minimum temp to do fiberglass work. I can reach that in my garage mid winter but I will have to run my electric cieling heater (worried about fumes causing a fire and cure times for the resin). I dont want to heat the garage 24x7 but am ok going it for a day if it buys me time to so some fiberglassing.

So here is my question. If I cannot do the fiberglass work during the winter should I hold off on pulling the stringers and transom until the spring so it's not sitting on the trailer (with some extra support) all winter without the 'bones'?

Thanks for you help!

 

[Woodonglass]

You can do "Spot Heating" to glass in the winter time. This means you "Tent" the area to be glassed and use heat lamps keep the substrate warm. Use Hot water in pans to set your resin in to "Fool it" into thinking its warm ouside. You only need to keep it above 60 for a couple of hours and then above freezing for 24 hours. Electric heat is OK, Open Flames not so much. Unless your garage is 100% Air Tight and It's prolly NOT then there will not be enuf fume accumulation to ignite unless you have a direct open flame drop onto some wet glass. Major body shops with Tons of Fiberglass fume accumulations don't have issues. I know it sounds worrisome but in actuality it is not. There will probably be some that disagree with this point of view.

 

[oba97]

That's great to hear! I was a little worried that I would get to the flashing part then have to stop for a few months. I have no issues keeping it at or above 60 for a day at a time to get the job done. I normally get the garage up to temp quick with a propane heater ~20 mins then turn it off and use my 240 ceiling mount electric heater to maintain the temp.