Winterizing Question

[jeb6294]

If you were to do a “standard” winterization, i.e. drain block and then pull the hoses and dump antifreeze in, could you then start the engine for a few seconds (w/o muffs) to circulate the antifreeze to any hidden spots or does filling the hoses work well enough?

 

[alldodge]

Start the motor without muffs can damage the impeller
The motor is never completely full once motor stops. Even a full ON hose will not supply as much water as the impeller can move

 

[Scott Danforth]

If you were to do a “standard” winterization, i.e. drain block and then pull the hoses and dump antifreeze in, could you then start the engine for a few seconds (w/o muffs) to circulate the antifreeze to any hidden spots or does filling the hoses work well enough?

winterizing proceedure

pull drive, inspect u-joints, bellows, gimble

change all fluids

drain all the water in the block, manifolds, hoses. probe all the drains to make sure debris is not clogging them

now it is winterized

if you want to add antifreeze, use a funnel from the thermostat housings

 

[Chris1956]

After the block drains, add some A-F via all hoses and watch for it to push out some additional water. When you see the A-F start to drain, install drain plugs and fill block and manifolds. You should see some A-F out exhaust . Don't forget to dump A-F down raw water hose to push water out of P/S cooler.

 

[tpenfield]

If you were to do a “standard” winterization, i.e. drain block and then pull the hoses and dump antifreeze in, could you then start the engine for a few seconds (w/o muffs) to circulate the antifreeze to any hidden spots or does filling the hoses work well enough?

That is not how the cooling system works . . . it needs a constant flow of liquid to the impeller in order for it to move liquid through the cooling system.

As mentioned, with the absence of liquid (water or antifreeze) the impeller (pump) will have nothing to circulate and will quickly (seconds) burn up and disintegrate.

Then you be in big trouble. . . .

 

[jeb6294]

After the block drains, add some A-F via all hoses and watch for it to push out some additional water. When you see the A-F start to drain, install drain plugs and fill block and manifolds. You should see some A-F out exhaust . Don't forget to dump A-F down raw water hose to push water out of P/S cooler.

Sorry, we’re still fairly new to this…which hose are you talking about that’s the raw water hose (it’s an ‘87 4.3).

 

[alldodge]

Looking at the motor , bottom right should come from the drive

 

[jeb6294]

Looking at the motor , bottom right should come from the drive

Thought that’s the one that’ll flush the PS cooler…just wanted to make sure.

 

[poconojoe]

Never ever run the engine without the drive either being in the water or with the muffs....not even for a few seconds. EVER!
You will burn up your impeller and exhaust shutters within seconds. Big problems will occur.
Marine engines are severely affected when an overheat occurs and in can happen within seconds.

 

[Lou C]

Dumping in the AF is more than adequate. All you are doing there is keeping out air which reduces corrosion. No need to start engine.
PS on the subject of AF, if it gets really cold where you are, I would not use the -50 or -60 they get hard at about 10*F (put some in a freezer to see), I use either -100 or I mix up a batch of Sierra PG no tox antifreeze 50/50 with water, that gives more than adequate freeze protection for my area. When I start my engine in the spring, first the green no tox comes out then clear water with no rust. That's for all the naysayers that AF does nothing.

 

[jeb6294]

We are in Cincinnati, OH so it gets cold enough that we have to winterize, but it doesn’t get frigid here.

I’m also an idiot and just figured out our whole motor box is actually removable as opposed to just the top half tilting so winterizing just got infinitely easier. Making sure to get all the water out will be much easier now.

 

[Starcraft5834]

If you were to do a “standard” winterization, i.e. drain block and then pull the hoses and dump antifreeze in, could you then start the engine for a few seconds (w/o muffs) to circulate the antifreeze to any hidden spots or does filling the hoses work well enough?

i'd drain the water out and leave it empty. done.. air dont freeze u know

 

[H20Rat]

Never ever run the engine without the drive either being in the water or with the muffs....not even for a few seconds. EVER!
You will burn up your impeller and exhaust shutters within seconds. Big problems will occur.
Marine engines are severely affected when an overheat occurs and in can happen within seconds.

The shutters won't die that fast. It takes at least 15 seconds or longer for water to start coming out of the exhaust when I start it on the hose in the spring. The entire system holds over 2 or 3 gallons.

 

[lrdchaos]

I’ve started doing a double round of AF. I pull the plugs and drain the engine on the way home from the lake. Pull the hoses and fill with -50 until AF runs out of thermostat housing, pull plugs and dump that antifreeze and refill a second time. Sure it’s probably a waste of 25 dollars of Af, but it seems to get everything out.

 

[Chris1956]

Exhaust shutters are stainless steel. They are expected to keep water from surging into the exhaust passage, if you drop from high speed suddenly. Mine broke and fell off years ago. Just don't abruptly come down from high speed, and water will not enter the engine.

As for the double antifreeze process. it clearly doesn't hurt anything, but it is unnecessary. Simply drain the motor of water. Make sure to clear the drains with a nail or awl, before draining. After all the water drains, add some antifreeze into each hose, until you see the color of the AF emerge from a drain. That will chase the water out.

On a standard Mercruiser raw water cooled V6/V8, antifreeze will emerge from each of the two block drains, 2 manifold drains and 2 riser drains. In addition, you want A-F to emerge from the exhaust (thru prop), the cooling water out gratings above the antiventilation plate, and the raw water intake holes in front of prop on gearcase.

Now install the plugs and fill the manifolds, risers and block.

 

[Lou C]

That’s what I’ve always done drain, poke holes and backfill with either -100 or Sierra PG mixed 50/50 with water. The -100 gives freeze protection to -55*, the Sierra to -26 but can be mixed for lower temps.

 

[crazy charlie]

I know that my method puts in the minority here however I have used a Camco kit for over 30 years .It gives you the opportunity to fog the engine through the carb while running ,while introducing AF through the entire system.Extremely important to either make sure engine is up to operating temp so the Tstst remains open or remove the Tstst for this procedure.There are other tricks to do this procedure better .I like the Camco method and it has never failed me.Charlie