Polaris hawkeye drive belt rattle.

stresspoint

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recently bought a Polaris Hawkeye ATV to shift stuff around .

purchased as a non runner so i could not check drive etc,

got it up and running and noticed the rattle on acceleration , with some investigation i found it was the drive belt rattling /slapping around.
bought a new belt and throw out weights as suggested on the internet in many threads .

got all the bits today genuine Polaris and fitted them , greased the load bearing as suggested , it still rattles , there is no rattles in the motor as i have ran it without the belt and it sounds good.

question are:
is this noise normal and i am just being pedantic ,or should i start looking elsewhere , if so any suggestions where ? , the bike accelerates just fine and has good top speed.
if i just leave as is will it affect its ability to tow or worse still damage the clutch.

any help would be appreciated , thanks in advance.
 

stresspoint

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did a quick search of some of the ATV forums. it appears it was a common issue back 15 years ago. this one states that it was "adjusted" and the noise went away. https://www.michigan-sportsman.com/threads/polaris-hawkeye-engine-noise.182694/

couldnt find anything on the adjustment.
thanks for the reply and link , there is no adjustment that i can see possible as it is just a regular CVT set up.
sorry for not mentioning build year in original post , it is a 08 model with around 300 hours on the clock 2 WD . due for belt replacement anyway so the overpriced belt was not a total waste of $.

as you can see with internet searching , there is lots of info on the knock / slap but no real info on fixing it "or just living with it "aside from belt replacement and throw weight replacement so i figured a post here and you guys here might throw some info at me to follow up on.
to me it looks like the belt is looser than a normal CVT even with replacement new bel PN# as per pic.

i have looked and found some AM throw weights that may help, apparently better than OEM from what i read.

as posted , it does not affect performance or rideability its just noisy like a big end is about to crap itself .
 

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Grub54891

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My old sportsman rattled a bit. The belt would slap the plastic housing at lower speeds. You could see the marks on the housing. Never had any issues with it otherwise as far as the belt goes though.
 

stresspoint

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My old sportsman rattled a bit. The belt would slap the plastic housing at lower speeds. You could see the marks on the housing. Never had any issues with it otherwise as far as the belt goes though.
that's good to know , the hawkeye has alloy cover , no marks i can see .
guess i will just run it as is and see what happens .
main thing i am concerned about is i would like to use it to move boats and other stuff in the yard and the RPM the rattle is at is around that speed i will be running around at , i used it the other day to pull a fence up strait that the wind blew over with the original belt on it and it sounded like a burned up diesel motor with a gut full of start ya basted .
 

Grub54891

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You said it is under warranty so I think I would have them look at it again. Show them what it’s doing. It would drive me nuts if it’s too loud. They say it’s normal so have them show you with a different machine if that makes noise also.
 

stresspoint

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You said it is under warranty so I think I would have them look at it again. Show them what it’s doing. It would drive me nuts if it’s too loud. They say it’s normal so have them show you with a different machine if that makes noise also.
wrong thread , that is the guy in the link Scott Danforth posted that had the same noise.
 

airshot

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Most adjustments are shimming the two tapered discs closer together or farther apart. Dissasemble the clutch face and there should be shims in there and shim kits are availiable. Once assembled you normally measure the amount if belt deflection by pressing down on rhe belt and see how much it drips down. There should be a belt deflection measurement......if to loose they slap abd rattle, if to tight the machine keeps going when off the gas. Look for a factory service manual for your model and it shoukd have everything you need to know....good luck !!
 

stresspoint

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Most adjustments are shimming the two tapered discs closer together or farther apart. Dissasemble the clutch face and there should be shims in there and shim kits are availiable. Once assembled you normally measure the amount if belt deflection by pressing down on rhe belt and see how much it drips down. There should be a belt deflection measurement......if to loose they slap abd rattle, if to tight the machine keeps going when off the gas. Look for a factory service manual for your model and it shoukd have everything you need to know....good luck !!
thanks for the post .
i had it apart yesterday and i don't recall seeing any shim around the disc area front or rear ,interesting !.? would that mean it would need shimming or the disc is worn ?? .
i don't have a manual and being polaris i would guess the only one available will be factory genuine as was the belt and other consumables i have chased , its not wonder people buy Chinese ATVs with the price of some things polaris. :) rant done .

i will take it apart again and make sure no shims are in place .

one thing i have just discovered from a you tube vid that appears the same drive as mine , "''the belt number the guy put on is different ' , my belt ends in 31 which is interesting because the belt in the vid looks much tighter ,more like where it should be and that ends in 64.
which is strange because the part number for the belt i got coincides with the model of the bike and it was the same as what looked to be the original belt from new.
 
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stresspoint

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edit to last post , looking through the listings ,there appears to be 3 different part numbers for the belt for this machine IE; listed as ending in 08 ?, 31 and 64 , all seem to be correct for this model bike .
any ideas on how i can make this work , i have a lathe and mill :).
 

airshot

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In some cases, rather than using shims to space the sheaves closer of farther the mfg offered different dia belts. That might ve the issue you just found. With the engine off you can use something to push the center of the belt down, then put a strsight edge across the top and measure how much "deflection" there is in that belt. Should be a measurement or tolerance on belt deflection in the manual... ( I find most of my manuals off Ebay) ...you will need a belt dia that gives you that deflection measurement. Other mfgrs use shims to space the taper sheaves farther apart or closer together to get that measurement..
 

stresspoint

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Joined
Sep 19, 2022
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989
In some cases, rather than using shims to space the sheaves closer of farther the mfg offered different dia belts. That might ve the issue you just found. With the engine off you can use something to push the center of the belt down, then put a strsight edge across the top and measure how much "deflection" there is in that belt. Should be a measurement or tolerance on belt deflection in the manual... ( I find most of my manuals off Ebay) ...you will need a belt dia that gives you that deflection measurement. Other mfgrs use shims to space the taper sheaves farther apart or closer together to get that measurement..
good info , thank you (y),what were they thinking 3 different belts all compatible with the same machine but all different sizes..

i didn't get a chance to look at it today. hoping tomorrow to get it apart again to investigate.
 

stresspoint

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Different diameter sheves may be the reason for different belts.
probably so , but ? is why on the same bike.
that said and with a quick search , looking at the part numbers they appear to be the same throughout the 2x4 hawkeye range.
.
it is possible mine are worn , they seem to look okay though.

keep the ideas coming i am open to all responses .
 
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