Oil change interval, synthetic or no, curious what we all do

ezbtr

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I put 2-3K on each of my vehicles a year, dino, F150 twin turbo V6 100K, 06 Mustang GT (V8) w/ 71K, I've used synthetics in the past but really can't justify the cost anymore, what do you guys do?
 

dolluper

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To tell you the truth l have never ran sin oil in any of my vehicles... Just regular oil and change every 2000 miles but l have always added a quart of dura lube every time l get a vehicle and at 50000 miles...l was in Ocala Florida in 1983 when Don Garlits tested dura lube in a Mairlin plane engine...they put it in ran.it then emptied the engine and ran it dry no oil 6 hours ...then shut it off ..found no damage....That sold me on dura lube
 
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dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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I drive upwards of 30k per year.

My daily driver (Civic) has 199k. The F150 (Ecoboost) has 52k and my wife’s Mazda 3 has 60k miles.

All changed when the light comes on at roughly 6k miles. The F150 and the Civic get the “house” oil at the local oil change shop.

The Mazda 3 requires synthetic so it’s get the “house” brand synthetic.
 

dolluper

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Most Di engines require syn oil for warranty...after warranty just keep oil clean is best rule of thumb...most of the oils that are allowed to call themselfs syn oil are not in Europe...check the class ....class 3 are in my opinion are
fake sin oil...class 4 and 5 are real...
There is a real movement now leading to run Catch cans on Di engines plus drilling out pcv barbs to increase the pull volume
Carbon build up and coking are becoming apparent in Di engines
Di = Direct Injection
 

topgun3690

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It has been said that the best kind of oil is CLEAN oil.......of the proper viscosity. Synthetics really shine for temperature extremes and severe duty use.
 

jimmbo

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I am very skeptical of all the Snake Oil Claims, of running with no oil. Bearings, especially Friction Bearings need Oil, not just for reducing Friction, but also to prevent Metal to Metal contact and to provide a Cushion. Remove the Oil and all that is gone. It doesn't matter what Miracle Compound is in the Oil Treatment, if there is no cushion, Metal to Metal Impacts will occur and irreparable Damage has occurred.
If an Engine maker specs Synthetic, then that is what you should use, Warranty or not. If an oil is missing a certain Additive, more frequent Oil Changes do not cover for that missing Additive. DI Engines are a real Headache in their own Right. The method and timing of the Fuel Injection affect how it burns, and results in a very Hard Carbon Soot. Unfortunately the Motoring Customer became an unpaid Durability Tester, compensated with early engine Failures due to the carbon build up on Valves and behind the Piston Rings. Certain Oils, all Synthetics can reduce the rate of deposit buildup by not vapourizing as quickly. Using Conventional oil here will certainly shorten engine life, even with very clean oil in the pan.
 

jimmbo

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Few Flat Tappet Gas Engines are newer designs so there won't be any DI on them, and are best Served with Oil for Diesels, Dinosaur, or Synthetic.
My LTs were speced for Dyno Oil(in a Vette, without the Engine Oil Cooler, Synthetic was speced), yet the Oil Life monitor goes far longer than the one in the Caddy, that is a DI Engine and specifies a Synthetic. The Caddy engine had to have the Timing Chains replaced due to the Carbon from the DI Injection causing excessive wear on them. When I looked at the Chains, I figured GM really cheaped out on them. The Chains were Warranty.
 

tpenfield

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Synthetic will get you 10K miles or more. Dino maybe about 6K max . . .

The F-150 with the turbos probably will appreciate the synthetic.

Even though the syn oil costs more, it is less than replacing turbos or having an engine rebuild.
 

airshot

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In my road vehicles, I use dino oil every 3k miles unless my vehicle calls for synthetic, which they dont. But, my aircooled engines and my side x side get full synthetic !
My aircooled mower gets hot, hard use thru the summer heat and synthetic oils are superior for high heat scenerios! Also in my offroad buggy as it to sees hard, hot summer heat and is often run at high rpm for periods of time. I also use it in my big snowblower because synthetic oil doesn't get thick in the cold like dino oils do. Mine will start on first or second pull in 0 degree temps with little effort. My road vehicles sit in heated garage and are serviced on a regular basis and see no severe service so dino oil works fine!! It all comes down to what you gonna do with that engine !!
 

JASinIL2006

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If you spend any time on car or truck forums, you'll quickly realize that there is never any consensus on how often to change oil, which type of oil should be used, and whether there is an advantage to synthetic vs. dino vs. a blend. I personally think it makes the most sense to follow whatever recommendations the manufacturer of the vehicle makes, but there will always be somebody who is convinced the automakers' service intervals are only designed to allow your vehicle to make it thru the warranty period after which it will immediately fall apart.
 

jimmbo

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Several of my vehicles have gotten over 300,000, and still don't burn oil, and that was by waiting for the OLM to announce it was time to change it.
 

ezbtr

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If you spend any time on car or truck forums, you'll quickly realize that there is never any consensus on how often to change oil, which type of oil should be used, and whether there is an advantage to synthetic vs. dino vs. a blend. I personally think it makes the most sense to follow whatever recommendations the manufacturer of the vehicle makes, but there will always be somebody who is convinced the automakers' service intervals are only designed to allow your vehicle to make it thru the warranty period after which it will immediately fall apart.
I know, but I love to hear your guys opinions, I wrenched for years - My rule of thumb is dino every 3-5K depending on how hard I
ve run them (towing, extended 100 mph +, weather, turbo, oil color, etc) and synth 5-7 K
 
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