I'm back with a 1994 Islander 221V!

Gibbles

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It has been a while since I have posted here.
but I'm back baby!

Last week I ran across my dream boat, and it was in actually in my state!
The boat: Islander 221V!!!

I wasn't sure if it was a V or not, but I see those "V5" ribs, but searching I saw references that the V in the later islander meant that the reinforcement structure was inside of the hull?

I picked it up last night, it has a thumping stereo system, MerCruiser 4.3 v6 and the Alpha One Gen 2 out drive.

It's actually a pretty nice boat, it could use a paint job, but it runs great, I don't see any obvious transom rot, and the floors seem to be in good shape.
But it still has carpet... Eww. :poop:

1694891716788.png

This side shows lots of dock rash, I also didn't see that the seller had any dock bumpers...
I see signs of a few impacts on that side, but overall, it's a really nice boat and ready to fish.

The starboard side looks like a fresh coat of wax and a polisher would bring it back, but that port side looks its age.

This also has a dual battery setup, I'm not sure how that works, but I guess the first place to start is a basic wiring diagram so I can wrap my head around it (for some emergency lake repairs), and to get the impeller replaced, and the lower gear oil replaced in both the Yamaha 4 stroke kicker that it came with, and the stern drive.

ALso if anyone knows a good lead for a service manaual for that 4.3l engine and stern drive, that might be helpful.

I'm also not sure how I'm supposed to change the oil on the engine, I assume I'll want to suck it out?
 

Gibbles

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I messaged the seller to find out what he has been using.
Looks like it currently has 5w30 synthetic.

In the bin of stuff he gave me I found an owners manual for both the drive and the engine.
Looks like it's the LX, and that makes just a little more power.

I'm curious if this is a roller cam or a flat tappit now.
I also see in the owners manual it specifies merc 25w40!
 

flashback

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I don't think gm did rollers in trucks until 1996.
If the dipstick tube has threads on it then you can vacuum the oil with a pump..
 

airshot

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I had one with the 3.0 engine, was able to get a jug with a drain hose under the pan with a shutoff and a drain hose running out the hull drain. It was a home made unit, large two gallon jug with side cut open to slide under the pan. Added a pvc shutoff valve with a few feet of hose stuck thru the drain hole of the hull. Sounds complicated, but actually worked quite well if you have enough room under the engine pan. Gave it to the next owner so no pics. Nice lookin boat !!
 

jbcurt00

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Welcome back, been a while

@Watermann Ƭs still around, not much of the old crew left....

Don, GA_BOATER, been gone for a bit, now he's fishing eternally, w nothing but fair seas and a stern wind...
 

Gibbles

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Welcome back, been a while

@Watermann Ƭs still around, not much of the old crew left....

Don, GA_BOATER, been gone for a bit, now he's fishing eternally, w nothing but fair seas and a stern wind...

Thank you!
Sad about the old crew and GA boater, I thought I saw the nickname active, and it gave me some hope.
I remember the old threads with Jayoutside and that's where I really fell in love with the islander.

Not counting that one time he cut the top off of one. :mad:

I went to change the oil last night using a compressor powered suction tool that I bought for transmission fluid.

Doing the warmup first, then started sucking it up, I found milky oil.

The seller told me he would cover any repairs, but It's also partly my fault for not really going through the boat first.

I'm hoping it's something simple to replace like an intake gasket.
Reading it's also possible it's the exhaust manifolds.

Looks like for a pair of the galvanized ones, it's about $500.
 

Gibbles

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Well yesterday I talked the wife into oktoberfest at the ski resort near us.
So, I spent most of my day napping afterwards. :cool:

During the fest, one of the ebay sellers that had the "upgraded" GLM exhaust manifolds sent me a "offer" that sounded close enough.

Reading up it sounds like the exhaust manifolds; they seem to have a life span.
2 years max on salt water, and 10y with fresh.
I'm assuming it's the original manifolds, so that's just about 30 years.

The GLM ones are supposed to be an improvement, galvanized coating and better flow.

So I figured what the heck.
total price shipped with sales tax was $450 for the pair.

I think the I/O is where the "Break Out Another Thousand" came from. :poop:
 

Watermann

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Yeah nothing is easy or cheap with boats but for the price of a new one, I'll take 450 to change out my manifolds once a decade any day over that each month for years. BOAT Bankruptcy On A Trailer.
 

airshot

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Well yesterday I talked the wife into oktoberfest at the ski resort near us.
So, I spent most of my day napping afterwards. :cool:

During the fest, one of the ebay sellers that had the "upgraded" GLM exhaust manifolds sent me a "offer" that sounded close enough.

Reading up it sounds like the exhaust manifolds; they seem to have a life span.
2 years max on salt water, and 10y with fresh.
I'm assuming it's the original manifolds, so that's just about 30 years.

The GLM ones are supposed to be an improvement, galvanized coating and better flow.

So I figured what the heck.
total price shipped with sales tax was $450 for the pair.

I think the I/O is where the "Break Out Another Thousand" came from. :poop:
Price out a new 150 hp outboard motor....your manifokds are cheap !!
 

Gibbles

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I have been learning about I/O via YouTube and internet searching as time allows.
It looks like if worst case scenario, I can use a truck block, and then rebuild the engine with fresh rings and a fresh marine camshaft.

Likely if I end up going that route, I'll try either picking up a block with a roller setup or convert it.

With that tow vehicle, engine building was a skill I acquired.
Recent purchase was 07 Jeep wrangler Unlimited with a blown engine (spun rod bearing).
Metal everywhere!
Block was savable, but just about everything else needed to be replaced.

The Tahoe I built up a LS2 for it using all new parts, the original engine I decided was haunted or something.
Every attempt to try and save it was thrown back in my face, so I finally just said screw it and bought a brand-new GM LS2 block (w/o AFM provisions) and built it up into something really nice. šŸ‘½

Crossing my fingers that this won't be like that since I'm still paying the last build off.

I did have a thought about "LS Power" for that boat, but I don't think the Outdrive could handle it?
I could save some weight using an aluminum block donor, but that's probably also a bad idea? šŸ˜¬

Not counting the mounts, I do believe it would bolt right up to the outdrive...
Yeah, it sounds easier to just do a 4.3 build if worst case scenario happens.
 

Gibbles

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Here is the only picture i have of the deck area, security cam view! :ROFLMAO:
1695317213364.png
(Engine cover is off in this picture)


Picking up some merc 25w40 from Walmart I noticed they had some boat vinyl cleaner in the same isle, so I decided to give it a try.
I can confirm that stuff really works!

I even found some areas up by the controls that appear to have been dyed at one point.

That cleaner seems to have removed some of that, showing bleached vinyl.
Not a big deal, I'll re-wrap it with fresh marine vinyl later on.
I also need to take apart the passenger seat/wall, it seems a little loose.
I'm sure it's just some rivets or needing some fresh 5200.


And since I'm doing some engine work, opted to do some cross referencing of the MerCruiser oil filter since it costs about $20 each.

I found the AC Delco 52 is a perfect fit, with my engine building adventures I also learned that those filters have some really good capacity for flowing oil.
My LS2 isn't happy with anything less due to some lifters that I need to change out eventually.
They pass a ton of oil to the heads, and the only way to keep up is with an oil filter that has some flow!

They also run about $4 each, and since I'll be swapping out filters here and there for a cut open and check contents it seems like the obvious choice.
So, I have a case of them on hand. (y)
 

Gibbles

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No pictures yet, but I found the front vent hatch has some issues.
Trying to open the thing while chilling in the cabin I found the glass opened with some gas-powered strut power!

But it left the rest of it behind. :ROFLMAO:

At first, I wasn't sure if I was missing a hinge or something, but it looks like I need to do some disassembly, remount that glass and make sure everything works.

And as for the electronics,
Everything works except for the horn, anchor light on the windshield, and the remote trolling motor bracket.

The seller was pretty proud of the little keyfob remote to control it.
He got super frustrated since it refused to work for him, but I told him to not worry about it since I'm weird and like diagnosing this type of thing.

The rear speakers were also disconnected, and the wires were pushed back behind a panel... :sneaky:
Once connected that stereo really thumped.

For the remote troll, it looks like the power wires going to it are just flat out missing. šŸ™ƒ

Still more time to spend digging through things to get a full picture before I start asking questions.

I also haven't been able to reproduce the water in the oil situation, but I haven't really tried that hard.

The assumption is that it happened because I left the hose on for a good 30min after shutting the engine off.
But I won't know until I start tearing into the engine.
 

Gibbles

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As it's raining today, this got me thinking about vinyl flooring for the new boat.
Found this stuff on ebay, resembles teak.
1695328466899.png

Not cheap at $33 per foot (8ft 6in wide)!

Looking at other options, I guess I just forgot how much this stuff costs.
And this is not a small deck like my old starchief.
 

Watermann

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I don't think water can't get to the oil from muffs on the outdrive if not running and turning the raw water pump, it'll just run out.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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13,753
Since you're handy like me ;) you can make a drive cart to save you a ton of frustration and sore back. Let me know if you want the plans for it.

embed
 

Gibbles

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Nov 14, 2009
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Since you're handy like me ;) you can make a drive cart to save you a ton of frustration and sore back. Let me know if you want the plans for it.

embed

I have this motorcycle jack that I installed some rivnuts into, and then made a little platform to support the 6l80 and the transfer case from my tahoe.
That combo = heavy as fk!!

I pictured me making a little support out of lumber like that to get the out drive removed. :LOL:
but that looks much better!

I recently started learning to weld as well, just a AC/DC Lincon stick welder for now, but I have dreams of a tig welder so I can do aluminum.

ETA: I would like the plans!
 

Gibbles

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I don't think water can't get to the oil from muffs on the outdrive if not running and turning the raw water pump, it'll just run out.

Apparently if the exhaust has a hole in it, then when the engine isn't running it can drain back into the engine.
And since I left the muffs on, there is a chance that's where the leak is.

The seller also told me he pulled the deck and applied some of that rivet sealer to everything.
Looking for leaks he said he did fill the hull with water to see the "rain".

What I don't know is if the last oil change was before or after that "Fill".
Or how full it was...

Either way, I'm tearing into the engine to be sure.
 

airshot

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Here is the only picture i have of the deck area, security cam view! :ROFLMAO:
View attachment 389561
(Engine cover is off in this picture)


Picking up some merc 25w40 from Walmart I noticed they had some boat vinyl cleaner in the same isle, so I decided to give it a try.
I can confirm that stuff really works!

I even found some areas up by the controls that appear to have been dyed at one point.

That cleaner seems to have removed some of that, showing bleached vinyl.
Not a big deal, I'll re-wrap it with fresh marine vinyl later on.
I also need to take apart the passenger seat/wall, it seems a little loose.
I'm sure it's just some rivets or needing some fresh 5200.


And since I'm doing some engine work, opted to do some cross referencing of the MerCruiser oil filter since it costs about $20 each.

I found the AC Delco 52 is a perfect fit, with my engine building adventures I also learned that those filters have some really good capacity for flowing oil.
My LS2 isn't happy with anything less due to some lifters that I need to change out eventually.
They pass a ton of oil to the heads, and the only way to keep up is with an oil filter that has some flow!

They also run about $4 each, and since I'll be swapping out filters here and there for a cut open and check contents it seems like the obvious choice.
So, I have a case of them on hand. (y)
Be carefull substituting oil filters, here is my story. Changed oil on my zero turn mower, no Kohler oil filters so did a cross reference and bought the Fram from the chart. After a few mows the filter blew off while mowing the oil came out and the engine seized. All in a matter of a couple seconds. Close examination showed the threads pulled out. Contacted Fram and because there cross reference did not specifically mention a Kohler engine match, just a part number cross they offered nothing !! There claim was the threads were not a match to Kohler specs. Kohler gave no help as it was not a Kohler named product. So I had to throw away a 450 dollar mower engine because I followed a cross reference chart !! Never again...always use factory parts at least until your warranty runs out !!
 

Gibbles

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Be carefull substituting oil filters, here is my story. Changed oil on my zero turn mower, no Kohler oil filters so did a cross reference and bought the Fram from the chart. After a few mows the filter blew off while mowing the oil came out and the engine seized. All in a matter of a couple seconds. Close examination showed the threads pulled out. Contacted Fram and because there cross reference did not specifically mention a Kohler engine match, just a part number cross they offered nothing !! There claim was the threads were not a match to Kohler specs. Kohler gave no help as it was not a Kohler named product. So I had to throw away a 450 dollar mower engine because I followed a cross reference chart !! Never again...always use factory parts at least until your warranty runs out !!

Fram, that was the error. ;)
Lame for them to rule out on some bs related to running a different filter...

I'm curious how that happened, however having a tool designed to dissemble oil filters is an eye opener!

And these warranties ran out back in the 90's I'm sure.

There is another cross-reference chart that I use to find a larger capacity oil filter for various uses.
One spec outside of the general base and thread stuff is the bypass oil pressure.

Pretty much when pressure inside of the filter reaches x psi it will allow the filter element to push out of the way and oil will bleed past the filter.

That said, I have had a fram filter separate internally and it tried to plug the whole thing up.
I refuse to use their products.

That said, the boat came with a single fram filter with the merc one installed.
I used it knowing I was changing the oil again before the next/first outing.

And its use was to just get fresh oil flowing through the contaminated everything in the engine.

FDFUFF (friends don't let friends use Fram filters).
 

Gibbles

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Well my first service manual arrived today.
I was expecting to see the manual for the 4.3l, but it looks like the seller sat on the order and it's already past the delivery date now.

What I have now is the merc out drive service manual, so that's a good start.
However I really wanted the engine manual for my tomorrow tasks.

Another thing that I need to figure out is the dog house.
Its alumnium, covered with carpet (two layers!), and insulated from the inside.

It also looks like someone has been stepping all over it and it's a bit deformed.

I'll want to eventually strip that old carpet off, and then see if i can straighten and reinforce the structure.

I will say this, with the cover over the engine, I can't hear the engine other than the exhaust while running on muffs.
Even if it's that loud when running, it's going to be an excellent boating experience!

The seller did mention that he replaced the floor carpet at one point, the orignal carpet is still on the dog house and just covered on top by the new carpet.

I just hope that carpet isn't contributing to too much of that excellent muffled engine noise.

Other option is to just rebuild the doghouse with some plywood for a better structure and noise reduction.

Future me problems for sure.
fix issues, fish, dump carpet, then start thinking about the little things like the engine cover as I'm trying to remove the old carpet from it.
 
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