. . . and I Thought Hi-tech Boat Engines Were Bad . . .

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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PS
All this suggests with modern vehicles you need an advanced scanner that can read ALL the modules and sometimes, expert help…
this suggests firing the controls engineers at Stellantis / GM / Ford / BMW/ etc
 

Lou C

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And this is why I kept the old boat!!!
simple DC wiring, anybody can figure it out with a meter and a test light!
My brother's 2021 Chapparal is CANBUS
no thanks!
 

nola mike

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if I can fix the main connector, I will. if I cant, wiring the fan old-school with a relay coming off the alternator.
A kludge fix worries me in these cars because I have no idea if I'm going to **** off a computer. (Just what do you think you're doing Dave? )
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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A kludge fix worries me in these cars because I have no idea if I'm going to **** off a computer. (Just what do you think you're doing Dave? )
Im pulling your data cards HAL....... Im pulling your data cards
 

stresspoint

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this should fit in this thread :
went for a drive Sunday arvo in my 2006 WL Holden caprice , turned the car off to grab some lunch .
come back to car and press the un lock button on the key "nothing " , so unlock with the key, car starts fine ,
i notice the dash lights illuminated very bright , go to turn them down "nothing happening there "., also the trip LCDs that tell av speed , fuel consumption etc are zeroed .
so i say to the missus , ok i can deal with that later.
come to the first corner , "no indicators working ". not good in the middle of the city Sunday avo , so i drove home anyway.

gets home and disconnected the battery for 10 min , everything is now working as normal except the indicators , 4 way flashers work fin but no turn signals , outcome when fixed TBA :) guessing a glitch in the CANBUS somewhere as i get no flashing when central lock is used.

and a pic of the Caprice .
.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Was a heat deformed terminal.

3rs from end, bottom row of red connector

Couldn't get the terminal out of the connector.

So a bit of 16 gauge wire resides inside the terminal with the BCM pin

I just want the name of the engineer that thinks this is a good idea.......

PXL_20231024_221819258.jpgPXL_20231024_221826677.jpgPXL_20231024_221832751.jpgPXL_20231024_221849153.jpgPXL_20231024_221941794.jpg
 

tpenfield

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I just did the brakes on the Admiral's car . . . as soon as I'm done the brakes on my car start spitting out warnings . . . pad wear sensor I believe. It says to drive moderately. OK . . .

I think I did the front brakes on my car not too long ago . . . maybe the thing will tell me which wheel is the problem :unsure:

The Admiral's car is much more simple . . . when your pads are worn, you start hearing that metal-on-metal grinding when you stop. Much simpler . . . :LOL:
 

racerone

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A lot of this electronic stuff is to make the car simpler / cheaper / quicker to assemble in a factory.----The stuff is made / tested / shipped to the factory.----Assembled by " workers " with no testing / adjusting required.----Electronic bits are cheap to manufacture.----Just not cheap to trouble shoot / repair 10 years down the road.
 

stresspoint

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result :
after a few hours of swap tronicss , poking and prodding with MM probes ( no idea where i was going with this BTW :) ).
i finally bit the Bullitt and called up an auto sparky acquaintance i have not contacted in a few years , after going through my testing with him and had him stumped.
on the off chance he remembered a jpb he did a few years back with the same problem.
he said smash on the hazard light button on and off a heap of times .
soopp , i do this and bugger me , the indicators start to work WTF is with these electronics.

i hope in years to come the steering sensors and other delicate sensors of the like on these late model things don't glitch like this.
ha ha funny thought :: remote parking.
 

tpenfield

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IDK - One surprise to me as I looked into the issues on my car was that in order to save a nickel, the automakers have 'LIN BUS' (single wire) in addition to 'CAN BUS' (two wires) to operate and manage a lot of the gadgetry. LIN BUS is less reliable and probably leads to all of this quirkiness.
 

aspeck

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My 2010 Yukon did well until it hit 142K. That was when the Tranny gave out. $4200 and a new tranny later it was running great again. It now has 172K and has been retired as my daily driver (got a 2020 Terrain that gets me around 30mpg where the Yukon got me around 15) and relegated to towing the boat, used in bad weather and for the 4wd. It needs a trip to the body shop to have the rocker panels replaced ... then it should be good for another 150K.
 

Scott Danforth

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Im on the 3rd rebuild of a trans because the factory GM (JMBX) torque converters are a joke. only 0.5mm of carbon fiber clutch face bonded and pressed by a hydro-formed piston. they edge load, eat the friction material, take out the pump, which in turn drops pressure and the trans eats itself
 

Lou C

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Interesting...
I don't have much data on the trans in my '07 Jeep 5.7 (Chrysler 545RFE) they are the same as what was used in the RAM trucks until they switched to the ZF design 8 speed. So far so good, but it has only covered 123,000 miles. They seem better than the old RE series (based on the original Torqueflites with the lock up converter, overdrive and electronic governor) that I have in my '98 Grand 4.0.
It is always these things you think about when considering if you want to roll the dice and keep an older vehicle longer....engine...trans....transfer case....diffs etc...
 

nola mike

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Mini cooper @85k has the clutch slipping already. I bought it at 55k and do almost no city driving. Apparently it's dual mass: paper mache and dreams/bubble gum
 
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