77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Any ideas on the type of wood i would use to replace those 2" strips in the hull?
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Thanks Wood,
I appreciate the help. Dont seem to be a lot of bassboat fans. Thanks again.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Not so much nowadays. Used to be several on the forum a few years ago. I'm no guru on em but know a little bit about em. I'll help out when and where I can.
 

fishbone77

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 12, 2011
Messages
304
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Nice work poppop! You're making fast progress!
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Thanks Fishbone, Not as much progress as i would like. Life keeps getting in the way!
 

GT1000000

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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Mine had 4 of those strips laid in the outer strakes and glassed over...When I ground them out, I just refilled them with a thick, hairy peanut butter then glassed over them with CSM and 1708...
Probably cost more in materials than filling with wood then glassing, but I figured they will never again turn to mulch this way...:rolleyes:
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Mine had 4 of those strips laid in the outer strakes and glassed over...When I ground them out, I just refilled them with a thick, hairy peanut butter then glassed over them with CSM and 1708...
Probably cost more in materials than filling with wood then glassing, but I figured they will never again turn to mulch this way...:rolleyes:

Good idea Gus, thanks.
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Just a few questions for when I get some time on the boat.
(1) Should I coat the 1/4"x 2" wood strips I'll be replacing in the hull with resin before I glass them in ?
(2)Do you have to ruff and scuff all layers of glass if allowed to set up ( as in next day ) before laying on more layers of glass?
(3) How does the wax added to the last layup aid in sanding? Wouldn't it clog up your disc or paper?

Thanks, I hope I don't sound too dumb! This is a learning experience.
 

GT1000000

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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Just a few questions for when I get some time on the boat.
(1) Should I coat the 1/4"x 2" wood strips I'll be replacing in the hull with resin before I glass them in ?
Any wood that is going to be coated with glass/cloth, should be pre-soaked with resin to prevent the first layer of glass/cloth from having the resin sucked out of it and creating a dry layer...similar to pouring concrete in a mold, you want to pre-wet the mold, so the water content in the concrete doesn't get suck into a dry mold...
(2)Do you have to ruff and scuff all layers of glass if allowed to set up ( as in next day ) before laying on more layers of glass?
I use a method that was shown to me by a Corvette Repair Shop Owner that I worked for in my youth, I wipe the area in question down with Acetone, if it becomes sticky/tacky, you are good to go, if it doesn't, you should ruff-n-scuff...you see the theory behind it is that if the surface remains tacky after wiping w/acetone, there is enough open surface [on a molecular level] for a good mechanical bond to the previous lay ups...remember, unless you do all of your lay ups of cloth/resin while everything is still somewhat soft and wet, which is the ideal "Chemical Bond", after just a few hours of curing time, you lose that window and it becomes a mechanical bond, no matter how much you grind, I would NOT necessarily trust this method after more than a couple or three days, and would definitely do a light ruff-n-scuff of the surface prior to re-laminating...and see my disclaimer in the next answer...:)
(3) How does the wax added to the last layup aid in sanding? Wouldn't it clog up your disc or paper?
Personally, the only place I would ever consider using waxed resin, or PVA, or whatever...is for the very last layer of finishing gel coat, if that is what your finish is going to be...otherwise, any final layers of glass/resin will probably be covered with something other than gel and will be fully cured in a matter of days, PLUS the fact that unless it is the final layer, and you have to sand, you avoid having the sandpaper clogging problem...Disclaimer; This is my opinion from several years of practical working experience with this stuff and with guys who have been doing it for bookoo years, and is in no way to be accepted as fact, the true experts on the subject are now welcome to shoot me down in flames...:laser::brick::rolleyes:

Thanks, I hope I don't sound too dumb!Never!
This is a learning experience.That is what this site is all about...

Looking forward to the upcoming progress...:D
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Thanks GT1000000, That answered a lot for me. I,m still a little confused about the wax. I assume when you say "last layer of finishing gel coat" or "covered with something other than gel", you are talking about maybe the outside of the hull and areas that are painted or coated. Not needed on final layups of stringers or transome. Is that correct?
Thanks! poppop.
 

GT1000000

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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Yes Sir, that is correct...
I personally don't use any wax additives in my layups...after a few days, the resin is completely cured.
I really do not see a need for any wax to be added to any of the under deck glass work, since in most cases, it will be sealed and most likely filled with floatation foam...
What I meant about using it in the last coat of gel, is that if you decide to finish the boat with gel coat, whether inside, outside or both... then the final coat of the gel should have a wax added to it so that it completely cures overnight and remains tack-free...
If you are going to paint the boat, whether inside or out, the wax additive is not really necessary, since, like I mentioned, the last layer of applied resin will cure in a matter of days...you would then finish the surface prep for paint by fairing any imperfections you don't want to see in the finish, apply the proper primer/sealer for the paint system you are going to use, and paint...
If you need any further clarification, feel free to ask away...
Have a great weekend...:)
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Thanks Gus, That's what I thought you meant. Appreciate your help.
poppop
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Hi everyone, It's been a while and I just have one question. I have to remove just about all of the 1/4"x 2" stiffeners in the hull. What would I use to glass them in? A few layers of csm or 1708 or both? Thanks!
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Got any pix of the hull stiffeners? Might get more input if we saw what you're talking about...
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Hope to post pics soon. Have to wait for son to post them for me. I'm not to good with the computer.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Hey poppop...
Pics would definitely help, but to get you thinking...I had some stiffeners originally made of wood and running along the outer most strakes in the hull...obviously they were rotted and there was an empty space covered by glass...
When I was ready to do mine, I just filled them with a thick PB and just glassed over them...
 

poppop51

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
131
Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

Thanks Gus, That's worth thinking about. Would there be a difference in strength? Here are a few pictures.

IMG_0540.jpg

IMG_0541.jpg

IMG_0542.jpg
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
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Re: 77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

OK, now that I see yours...they are quite different than the ones on mine...although the hull design is very similar...
I honestly can't say whether or not they are absolutely essential to your hull, but you could err on the side of caution and put them back as they were using some 1/4" x 2" strips of plywood, soaked in resin then covered with a layer of CSM + a couple of layers of 1708...
Here is a pic of the strakes in my hull, after being ground out, that were later re-filled with the thick PB and cloth covered...where the red lines are...

 
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