67 6hp Johnson gearcase question

[BillyB11]

I am currently rebuilding a 67 Johnson 6hp and am having a problem separating the upper and lower half of the gearcase so I can access the gears, prop shaft, etc. The service manual, seloc manual, and various youtube videos I have found seem to treat separated the find from the upper portion of the gearcase as a trivial matter, however, I am having trouble separating the two and am trying to be careful not to cause any damage. I removed the six screws that connect the two as well as the pivot pin, but no luck. There must be something I am missing, but for the life of me I can figure it out. Any suggestions or help is much appreciated!

Thanks,
Billy

 

[Crosbyman]

did you separate the shift linkage after dropping the lu about 1.5 inches you must take out the lower screw #60 completely to separate it

 

[racerone]

Give the bottom half a good bump with a rubber mallet.----Or bump it on a work bench.---Just a wee bit of sealer holding it.

 

[BillyB11]

As usual, thanks Crosby and Racer for timely responses, as a novice a very much appreciate your dedication to sharing knowledge.

As as for your question Crosby, I believe I have indeed removed that screw. Given the issue I had with the crank case (maybe you recall my post about it a couple months back) I have been very apprehensive to whack anything or do anything that is not specifically persribed in the manual. I have attached a picture that shows the current state of the unit (which I believe corroborates that screw 60 is removed) in which case I will take racers advice and hit it with my rubber mallet.

 

[Crosbyman]

yep... reread your post....I was in left field again PIVOT PIN was the give away :facepalm:

follow racerone's approach or try wedging a small putty knife blade between the two edges and it should separate the two sections unless the previous owner (if not you ) was bit to rich on sealant
​

 

[F_R]

Give the trailing edge of the skeg a whack in the direction of the nose cone. It will pop off, assuming you are telling the truth when you say all six screws are out.

I think that is even said in some service manuals, but I'm not going to try to find it just now.

 

[Crosbyman]

something like this in the bible ....

 

[BillyB11]

Thanks you for all of your replies. Unfortunately I am still having a hard time removing this. I don't want to hit it too hard, but its definitely not coming off after I hit it with a rubber mallet. Does anyone have any further suggestions?

Also, Crosbyman, what book/manual is that? I have the service manual, parts books, owners manual, and a seloc repair manual. I don't have anything with that in it.

'***Maybe this picture I am attaching will help. It appears to me that the two "silver" rings are sealed from the outside. All of the metal painted green is clearly defined by a crease connecting the upper and lower half. Is it possible it is sealed from the outside or something? This is the first project like this I have ever done, and I don't know the full history of this motor, so I am just throwing out ideas... but if you look in the picture I attached, the "silver" metal appears to form a continuous ring.

Thanks,
Billy

 

[BillyB11]

i added some pictures that might be helpful

 

[hardwater fisherman]

That inner part is one piece and the prop shaft goes through it. It houses the seals and O ring. If all the screws are out, then maybe you need to give it a harder wack with the rubber mallet.

 

[Crosbyman]

quote...

Also, Crosbyman, what book/manual is that? I have the service manual, parts books, owners manual, and a seloc repair manual. I don't have anything with that in it.


the picture is a snip from the Johnson 10th edition manual ... The Bible accessible but may be to slow to load​

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4ufxp2fhc...anual.pdf?dl=0



me ... just me...

.I would wedge a VERY THIN putty knife and work my way in.. working square at 90 degree so has not damage the mating surfaces....

but first and for a week if need be in this severe case I would soak the edge with some release agent (loose nut.. release all.. WD40... whatever etc...

drain the case and try a heat gun around the edge

keep at it ... don't let it win :smash:​

 

[racerone]

??----Build a stack under the propshaft..-----Then gently pry up on the propshaft right close to the oil seal.----Use more muscle until it pops loose.

 

[BillyB11]

thank you for responses, I have tried racerone's method to no avail so far, and at this point I think I will try soaking it in pb blaster as crosby suggested.

One follow up that I am still confused about. I have attached a picture which hopefully demonstrates my confusion. I can clearly see the where the two pieces are sealed together on the green painted part of the piece, but there are two areas which I have shown in the picture that appear to be continuous rather then easily separable. From my amatuer point of view, this appears to be what is stopping me from separating the two pieces.

Billy .

 

[oldboat1]

got a work mate? After draining, upend/invert the gearcase and clamp it near the A/V plate. With the screws out, tapping the skeg portion forwards and backwards, right and left with a rubber mallet should do the trick. The horizontal line at your orange mark continues through the yellow highlighted area(s).

 

[BillyB11]

great thank you, is it possible that somehow or for some reason the areas where the yellow is where fused together. I mean, I have gotten really close with a flashlight, (as well as have had a buddy look at it), it REALLY REALLY looks like it is just one piece of metal

 

[racerone]

That is not fused together.----You need a bigger hammer.

 

[BillyB11]

Everyone, thank you! I finally got it off with a combination of everyone's advice, The combination of it being pretty stuck and my timidness due to my earlier error with the tapered pin made it difficult.

I'm sure i'll have plenty more questions along the way, but thanks again for all the help on this one!

Billy

 

[Crosbyman]

those two pieces spend their life surrounded by oil and are not "fused" they should split

it is possible the previous owner (not you I presume) applied an inappropriate sealant (epoxy ?? )

not to many option..for a fix . chemically, thermally or... physically

again.. try softening the sealant with a heat gun.. you will be replacing any seals and o-ring so go ahead warm it up good !

or try wedging in a thin putty knife blade or nail in a small thump tack just on the edge. to crack it open

 

[BillyB11]

crosby, thanks again, I think I was just being too tentative, and, wrongly, I was convinced those pieces where fused together after visual inspection. As you, racer, and everyone else said, they were not fused together, and I am glad to finally have them separated.

Also, crosby, thank you for posting "the bible", i am hopeful this will help me going forward.

As per the previous owner question, my family has owned it my whole life (im 28), but none of us are mechanically inclined, so I don't really know the history of it!

Thanks again,
Billy!

 

[F_R]

A few million of those motors were built, and between a bunch of people here, we have worked on most of them at some time or other (well not quite-but still at it).