5.7 omc stalling while shifting

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

Now check with the dwell meter, set timing & idle speed

I’ve done a lot of reading the last few hours. I’ve ordered the correct tool. Everything should be here tomorrow. What I have resdy is to adjust dwell, I hook up dwell reader. Crank the motor and check to see that it is in spec, if not I just make the gap bigger or smaller until the dwell is in spec. For timing I need to use the timing light and rotate the cap to get it to read 8* BTDC on the little thing by the flywheel on the motor while it’s running. After this I should have my points adjusted properly… correct me if my procedure is wrong.

 

[Lou C]

That’s basically it, you will need a crowfoot wrench to reach the bolt for the clamp that holds down the distributor so you can loosen it to turn the distributor

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

That’s basically it, you will need a crowfoot wrench to reach the bolt for the clamp that holds down the distributor so you can loosen it to turn the distributor

How about my prop situation?

 

[Lou C]

a couple of points...
1) if you have an advance timing light for setting base timing at idle speed (the advance timing light can be used to check base timing as well as total timing advance) make sure that the dial is set to zero, or else it will throw off you timing setting
2) check your idle speed before setting timing, because if its way too high it will thow off your reading because some advance will start, you can set it if its idling at about 600 rpm
3) after adjusting timing recheck your idle because when changing the timing sometimes the idle changes as well.
4) there is also the idle mixture adjustment, that is more complex, so let's see what you get from doing the dwell, timing and idle speed first.

 

[Lou C]

That’s hard to say really. You might need a 15x13 for that boat. What’s the length & weight? Looks big in the pic!
My 20’ Four Winns weighs about 4200 lbs when I had it weighed a lot more than I thought. It didn’t perform well with the 14.5x19, wrong for the V6, better with the 15x17, but the 15.5x15 really helped with accelerating on plane. So the 5.7 in your boat puts out a good bit more torque than the little V6 in mine but your boat is much bigger/heavier.
One other thing has the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank ever been replaced? These are a safety valve that will cut off fuel flow to the fuel pump if the fuel hose from the tank to the pump leaks. If they get internally corroded or clogged with junk it will restrict fuel flow and you can have the same problem you’re having. In fact our boat had this problem when we first bought it 20 years ago. I went thru the ignition & carb but being new to boats didn’t know about this valve & our mechanic found it…

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

That’s hard to say really. You might need a 15x13 for that boat. What’s the length & weight? Looks big in the pic!
My 20’ Four Winns weighs about 4200 lbs when I had it weighed a lot more than I thought. It didn’t perform well with the 14.5x19, wrong for the V6, better with the 15x17, but the 15.5x15 really helped with accelerating on plane. So the 5.7 in your boat puts out a good bit more torque than the little V6 in mine but your boat is much bigger/heavier.
One other thing has the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank ever been replaced? These are a safety valve that will cut off fuel flow to the fuel pump if the fuel hose from the tank to the pump leaks. If they get internally corroded or clogged with junk it will restrict fuel flow and you can have the same problem you’re having. In fact our boat had this problem when we first bought it 20 years ago. I went thru the ignition & carb but being new to boats didn’t know about this valve & our mechanic found it…

Where is this valve located? My bayliner is roughly 28-29FOA including swim platform and anchor nose. And 10 foot beam.

 

[Lou C]

That’s a huge boat for a lil 5.7. Should a had a 454!
The valve is where the fuel line from the pump connects to the tank

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

That’s hard to say really. You might need a 15x13 for that boat. What’s the length & weight? Looks big in the pic!
My 20’ Four Winns weighs about 4200 lbs when I had it weighed a lot more than I thought. It didn’t perform well with the 14.5x19, wrong for the V6, better with the 15x17, but the 15.5x15 really helped with accelerating on plane. So the 5.7 in your boat puts out a good bit more torque than the little V6 in mine but your boat is much bigger/heavier.
One other thing has the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank ever been replaced? These are a safety valve that will cut off fuel flow to the fuel pump if the fuel hose from the tank to the pump leaks. If they get internally corroded or clogged with junk it will restrict fuel flow and you can have the same problem you’re having. In fact our boat had this problem when we first bought it 20 years ago. I went thru the ignition & carb but being new to boats didn’t know about this valve & our mechanic found it…

It’s 5000lb dry. I think that’s without motor, drive and all the stuff I have inside.

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

That’s a huge boat for a lil 5.7. Should a had a 454!
The valve is where the fuel line from the pump connects to the tank

Where the hose clamps on to the barbed 90 ?

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

It’s 5000lb dry. I think that’s without motor, drive and all the stuff I have inside.

In my case is all welded on, I can’t open anything to check. Unless there’s a different way

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

a couple of points...
1) if you have an advance timing light for setting base timing at idle speed (the advance timing light can be used to check base timing as well as total timing advance) make sure that the dial is set to zero, or else it will throw off you timing setting
2) check your idle speed before setting timing, because if its way too high it will thow off your reading because some advance will start, you can set it if its idling at about 600 rpm
3) after adjusting timing recheck your idle because when changing the timing sometimes the idle changes as well.
4) there is also the idle mixture adjustment, that is more complex, so let's see what you get from doing the dwell, timing and idle speed first.

Is there a difference between a timing light and a advance timing light ?

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

That’s a huge boat for a lil 5.7. Should a had a 454!
The valve is where the fuel line from the pump connects to the tank

oh you mean that little bit that is screwed into the welded 90. i never checked that.

 

[itsathepete]

Is there a difference between a timing light and a advance timing light ?

A standard timing light flashes whenever the spark plug fires and you line it up on the timing cover gauge to determine timing. An advance timing light lets you dial in an amount of advance so that the flash happens when the timing mark is on zero on the gauge. The amount of advance you dialed in equals the amount of advance the ignition has at that moment. The timing cover gauge only goes to about 12 degrees and only lets you set initial timing. The timing will advance with rpm up to 34 degrees in some cases. The advance timing light let's you see what the maximum advance is. An alternative is to put timing tape on your balancer. This is best done before the engine is installed for ease of application and proper alignment. Quite difficult to do with the engine in place and all the belts and pulleys in the way.

 

[itsathepete]

How does my prop situation sound. Checked today, at WOT I’m doing 3500 rpm and doing 26mph fully loaded. Had 7 guys, 300 litres of fuel. Around 250 pounds of fish. I’ve read that I should be in the 4200-4600. What props should I test?

As has been said, that is a lot of boat for that engine. WOT rpm is typically tested with one or two people, minimum gear, and half a tank of fuel. However, if you plan on running loaded nearly all the time or want to make sure you have good power when loaded, you can test it at the normal load you will be carrying. Just understand, if you prop for a full load and then run with a light load, you can overrev the engine. You will have to watch your rpms to prevent this

 

[Lou C]

Post a pic of where your fuel line connects to the tank

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

A standard timing light flashes whenever the spark plug fires and you line it up on the timing cover gauge to determine timing. An advance timing light lets you dial in an amount of advance so that the flash happens when the timing mark is on zero on the gauge. The amount of advance you dialed in equals the amount of advance the ignition has at that moment. The timing cover gauge only goes to about 12 degrees and only lets you set initial timing. The timing will advance with rpm up to 34 degrees in some cases. The advance timing light let's you see what the maximum advance is. An alternative is to put timing tape on your balancer. This is best done before the engine is installed for ease of application and proper alignment. Quite difficult to do with the engine in place and all the belts and pulleys in the way.

So with my timing light I will line the flash up with the 8 BTDC ? I usually run on 87 Oct gas.

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

Post a pic of where your fuel line connects to the tank

Ok will be headed to the boat shortly

As has been said, that is a lot of boat for that engine. WOT rpm is typically tested with one or two people, minimum gear, and half a tank of fuel. However, if you plan on running loaded nearly all the time or want to make sure you have good power when loaded, you can test it at the normal load you will be carrying. Just understand, if you prop for a full load and then run with a light load, you can overrev the engine. You will have to watch your rpms to prevent this

ok I will usually run with half tank had and 1-3 guys. What prop should I test ?

 

[Lou C]

It is true that if you prop for heavy load and then run lightly loaded you can come close to or even exceed the redline. Given that your WOT rpm is too low right now it’s not that likely though. Mine is propped to hit 5,000 with just me aboard so if I’m loaded it’s still at the spec of 4600-4800 rpm.

 

[Nick_1987 5.7 OMC]

It is true that if you prop for heavy load and then run lightly loaded you can come close to or even exceed the redline. Given that your WOT rpm is too low right now it’s not that likely though. Mine is propped to hit 5,000 with just me aboard so if I’m loaded it’s still at the spec of 4600-4800 rpm.

Ok what’s prop should I try?

 

[Lou C]

Try the 15x13 & see what you get