4.5 mpi winterization tstat or muff fill?

[void7910]

Possibly buying a new boat with a 4.5 250 w/ alpha 1 after owning a VP 5.0 for years. After dumping the water via the single point drain system is it best to introduce antifreeze via muffs or through the blue plug on the thermostat? Maybe both work and it doesn’t mater? Not familiar with the intricacies of this engine. On my VP I’d fill the block after pulling the thermostat off.

 

[tpenfield]

It would be best to get the service manual for that engine as it will outline the steps. Plus, you may need the service manual for other types of maintenance or repairs.

 

[alldodge]

The blue plug on thermostat is to allow air in when single point is opened to help drain.

 

[paulswagelock]

It is best to fill via the correct hoses / inlets on the motor over sucking it in through muffs.

 

[tpenfield]

Also it would be good to know if this is the standard or SeaCore version (which is closed cooling) Also, I assume that the engine is the EC version (CATs) . . . is the boat new or new-2-you?

If you do fill with AF, I would use the -100˚ F strength. BTW - this engine is a Mercrury in-house fabricated, not the GM based engines of the past, like your Volvo 5.0 . So, the a cracked block would be crazy money to fix.

 

[void7910]

It would be best to get the service manual for that engine as it will outline the steps. Plus, you may need the service manual for other types of maintenance or repairs.

Agreed. Just starting to familiarize myself with my new process atm.

The blue plug on thermostat is to allow air in when single point is opened to help drain.

Yes, its primary intent was to get air behind the water draining out of the block, however, I believe have also read you can fill the block from this point without having to remove the tstat.

It is best to fill via the correct hoses / inlets on the motor over sucking it in through muffs.

I would tend to agree. I have never been a huge fan of using the muffs. Seems wasteful and dangerous as the tstat needs to be open to properly fill. I'd rather know it's been filled properly even if it takes more work.

Also it would be good to know if this is the standard or SeaCore version (which is closed cooling) Also, I assume that the engine is the EC version (CATs) . . . is the boat new or new-2-you?

If you do fill with AF, I would use the -100˚ F strength. BTW - this engine is a Mercrury in-house fabricated, not the GM based engines of the past, like your Volvo 5.0 . So, the a cracked block would be crazy money to fix.

This is the standard raw water cooled 4.5 with CATs. The boat is new to me, just pending a survey at the moment.

Agreed with the -100F. I have always used the Stabrite and never had issue in my old boat.

That's a good point about the block cost. This is part of why I am trying to sort out winterization now rather than in another couple months when I am crunched for time.