1990 Force 120HP B model cannot seem to find the issue with sporadic no start

[gica]

On the twin force 120hp I completely rebuilt one of the engines and the drive. I was able to successfully start and run the engine on a hose in the parking lot. As soon as I went to the lake it started but it would die in gear. Even adjusting the rpm did not help. The carbs air mix screw was adjusted at 1 and 1/8 which should be fine. So, after it started the filter was not filled with gas so I pumped the prime bulb which caused it to stall. At one point in the water the alarm went off this is all while docked, after that engine went off and it never started again. I will check compression again; water pump is new. I hope the drive is not too tight since I installed all new bearings and seals. Can the alarm trigger a no start condition, these are not computerized. This happened before in the parking lot and I thought it was the carbs, so I switched the carb as a set from one engine to the other and then it started fine in the parking lot. Even at the lake it was fine for a while when docked but would stall in gear. I am going to retest voltages, trigger is new, stator is new both CDI, the rectifier is new, I think.
At this point I need some helpful advise. The second engine is fine. Was able to cruise around the lake at 10 mph. You cannot really get more power on twin engines when one is out.
Help guys!

 

[racerone]

You ran it in the parking lot ?-----Water supplied to the impeller ?

 

[gica]

I have a pretty strong pressure water hose at the house. I didn't do it at the lake oarking lot

 

[gica]

So I have no sparg again. I tested compression and all are 120 to 125.
Statotgets 250v DVAob all 4. and 350ohms on resistance as per specs. Trigger gets 0.9V on 2 and 1.3V on other 2 all DVA so more than 0.5 and resistance to hround 51oms on all. Do those two are fine. I don't have spark. Testing the coils.
I doubt it's all the coils.

 

[gica]

I tested the CDI modules outputs and I got weird low readings the first time , tested again and got 220DVA on the engine that doesn't start. On the one that starts I get 190V on most and 185 on number 4. That's cranking
I first thought for sure the CDI modules were bad. But I guess not. The only thing left is the coils. I have to swap them. With the good ones. Can you test these on the engine?

 

[Nordin]

Yes you can test the coils on the engine.
The coils should jump a gap of 3/8 in or more in atmosphere.
Spec.
OEM stator 680-800 Ohm, output voltage 180V DVA or more.
CDI stator 300-400 Ohm, output voltage 180V DVA.
Triggers 48-50 Ohm , output voltage 0,5V DVA or more.
CDI-box output voltage to coil 210V DVA or more.
Coil prime winding 0,5-1,5 Ohm, secondary winding 500-600 Ohm.

Have you tried to unhook the regulator/rectifier and checked for spark?
Check all wires at the terminal strip, they can be broken under the shrink tube.
Pull gently at the wires at the lugs as the can be loose under the shrink tube.

 

[gica]

Yes you can test the coils on the engine.
The coils should jump a gap of 3/8 in or more in atmosphere.
Spec.
OEM stator 680-800 Ohm, output voltage 180V DVA or more.
CDI stator 300-400 Ohm, output voltage 180V DVA.
Triggers 48-50 Ohm , output voltage 0,5V DVA or more.
CDI-box output voltage to coil 210V DVA or more.
Coil prime winding 0,5-1,5 Ohm, secondary winding 500-600 Ohm.

Have you tried to unhook the regulator/rectifier and checked for spark?
Check all wires at the terminal strip, they can be broken under the shrink tube.
Pull gently at the wires at the lugs as the can be loose under the shrink tube.

Nordin thanks a bunch for the reply, so yesterday was a bad day because of that engine. So when I opened the drain plug to let the water out there was a lot of water coming. I have another boat that I used to use it's an I/O and it never had that much water after a few hours on a lake or ocean.
So today I looked closer and discovered some screws that someone used to mount 2 pieces of wood for support under one of the 2 batteries for the port side engine. These screws were mounted through hull and caused water to enter the transome area.
I took them all out today and will repair the hull no big deal. The other thing I noticed was the negative on one of the 2 batteries was loose you could easily be moved left or right. It was weird that the boat started right up a few times at first but died in gear and then just wouldn't start. So I am not sure if that could cause a no spark condition but I read you need 250 rpm to get spark going, or something like so. I mean I tested everything and I get 220DVA at the output primary to each coil. But no spark? It has to be the battery being loose. Even though I have a switch to use both bayteries at the same time. When I tested one battery, it showd 340 cca connected, after taking it out it showed 700cca. I found some corrosion on the battery leads from yesterday's event. So the stater is new the trigger is new the ignition switches new, the kill switches new, spark plugs new, retifier new. The only old parts are the modules and coils. Coils work great on the other engine. I read modules can act as if they are failing when engine gets hot. I did hear the overheat alarm before the engine didn't start but the battery cable could have heated up to also cause some heat, maybe not enough though. Water pump is new but I did start it a bunch of times without water source, bad habbit. Might need to replace the impeller again. No biggie. So that's where I am at.