1979 5 HP Mariner question

andreipou

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Hi, I got 5 HP air-cooled Mariner outboard today.
By SN 661-316002 I determined that it is 1979.

I had 1983 15HP Mariner that was made by Yamaha and had 1984 twin Yamaha brother what really helped for finding parts. I also used Yamaha repair manual that was easy to find.
This motor also says "made in Japan" , but I was not able to locate Yamaha counterpart.
Was it made by Yamaha or else?
So far I could not find any specific manuals except generic Seloc one that I do not like.

Any advice?

Thanks.
 

QBhoy

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Yeah. It’s also a Yamaha. They made a 3.5 and a 5hp Yamaha and mariner. More common was the mariner 5hp version for sure. More common again was the 3.5hp in both forms. They even made a wee 2hp air cooled too. Lovely old engines. Here is a picture of the now very scarce 5hp Yamaha version
 

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andreipou

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Yeah. It’s also a Yamaha. They made a 3.5 and a 5hp Yamaha and mariner. More common was the mariner 5hp version for sure. More common again was the 3.5hp in both forms. They even made a wee 2hp air cooled too. Lovely old engines. Here is a picture of the now very scarce 5hp Yamaha version
Can you point me to service\repair manual for 5HP?
It needs good tune-up.

The closest thing i found so far is this 1975 manual. Not sure if it is good...
 

QBhoy

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Can you point me to service\repair manual for 5HP?
It needs good tune-up.

The closest thing i found so far is this 1975 manual. Not sure if it is good...
I think you’d be good with that. I can see there it states that it’s referenced as air cooled in a picture there. There only was one air cooled 5hp model like it. Best of luck
 

Faztbullet

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PLUG...NGK ...B7HS
PLUG GAP.... .024
IDLE IN GEAR RPM +/- 50....1200RPM
WOT RPM......4500-5500
POINT GAP......... .014
TIMING: MAX. BTDC STATIC CRANKING......057 +/- .016
TIMING: BTDC RUNNING 18°
GEARCASE CAP. ........2.6 FL. OZ
 

QBhoy

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PLUG...NGK ...B7HS
PLUG GAP.... .024
IDLE IN GEAR RPM +/- 50....1200RPM
WOT RPM......4500-5500
POINT GAP......... .014
TIMING: MAX. BTDC STATIC CRANKING......057 +/- .016
TIMING: BTDC RUNNING 18°
GEARCASE CAP. ........2.6 FL. OZ
Now there’s a man who knows his engines ! Excellent. Never had one of these air cooled models. Had it have about every other small Yamaha under 15hp from way back though. Have far too many in the garage for my own good. Need to hide them from her these days.
 

andreipou

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The float and float arm in carb came out as 2 separate pieces.
Is it how it is supposed to be or is it broken?
tnx
 

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QBhoy

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The float and float arm in carb came out as 2 separate pieces.
Is it how it is supposed to be or is it broken?
tnx
There is normally a wee pin that goes through the end of that, I’m sure. You’ll need to probably find it or make certain it’s not anywhere it should be
 

andreipou

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Hi , I finally got the manual and spent some time on this motor.
Compression was high - 160 psi.
Carb was dirty and needed good soak and rebuild.

Now the problem:
Before I started taking it apart I put new spark plug, grounded it and pulled rope to see if coil is good. I got good spark.
Now after I did all the work and put all back I am not getting spark.
I checked shut-off switch and it is fine
The coil lead wire looks fishy.
Can anyone tell me how this wire comes apart?
Does it come out of the coil?
I tried slight pull , but it does not work. I do not want to use too much force to break it.
This coil listed as NLA, but if I search for F6T405 it come from many other engines , even motorcycles.
Can I replace it with something else if I have to?
 

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QBhoy

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Hi. I’ll be honest with you. In the past and frankly, even now…I tend to think too much into things around fault finding with engines like this and further developed, in terms of era. It’s just what I’m guilty of, with being a strictly educated marine engineer, taught by old school guys that are now long gone. Most of the things they taught me are undoubtedly to be adhered to and certainly installed a likely excellent culture in my chain of thought.
But just every once in a while (far too often), I’m very guilty of thinking far too deeply into fault finding on very simple engines like this and similar. Especially when I don’t have these wee engines on or in their natural operating environment.
Long story short, what I’d advise a fella in your situation (but admittedly likely not what I’d be thinking if it was my own situation, rather unwisely), is to make sure you have a good spark plug, make sure your carb is clean and definitely getting fuel…and perhaps even (since you seem like a fella of a more than capable understanding of such things) have a meter across each end of that HT spark plug lead to make sure it had good continuity across the length of it, then give her a go.
Someone on here will certainly offer you a more technical and better explained version than this. But I certainly know that these wee things and the lovely 2 strokes of similar size that followed them shortly after (which I am guilty of having far too many off, unused in the garage), have their own wee ways of starting. Despite any instruction manual there ever was.
So here are some absolute truths about every one of the old Yamaha 2 stroke I have now (and even the 78’ 8hp I used to).
Without fail this is true for my 92’ 8hp, my 99’8hp, my 93’ 3hp Malta and any other decent quality old school Yamaha and even similar era merc I’ve had.
Despite me going far too deep into wondering if they will actually work or not, by pulling them over (after acquiring in an unknown state of condition) and watching for a spark with the plug out and earthed against the block or similar…then wondering if there was one or not ???
Basically, I just simply became aware of how ridiculously good these old things actually were. Especially the Yamaha.
So. Long story short. Outwith major failure and ridiculous neglect…if you know you have compression, a clean carb, good plug and fresh fuel…99% of the time, these things are going to start after the 3rd pull, worst case.
I’m definitely going on a bit here, and had a few beers…but I know for certain, that if I go out to the garage right now…grab the older of the 8hp Yamahas (that’s not been ran for years)…sit her in water, pump some fuel into it with carb drain open to flush, close carb drain…choke full on and throttle full open, pull her over once or twice at maximum…she will then kick…choke off and half, to 3/4 throttle…try again..:she will start. Bet my life on it.
Anyway..:point is…new plug, fresh fuel through her and she will likely fire up. If she definitely doesn’t after ages trying…then thing about coils and all that. But they are easily tested, if need be.
Just one final beer fuelled thought, before I finish boring you…I think your compression gauge is very optimistic. No big deal though. Right. Let me know how you go. Don’t hesitate to contact or keep me updated. I love these old things and keenly interested in their affairs. Good luck. Wee video of one of mine firing up after years and years of lay up. Added a wee tell tale water outlet mode to this too. Sporting a much newer hood than she actually should have 😂
 

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andreipou

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Spark plug is new NGK B7HS.
All gaps checked to specs above.
When it did not start after a few pulls I suspected fuel issue because I knew spark was there.
I injected fuel into cylinder manually and it was not even sneeze.
So, it is "no spark" issue and the question is if coil died or something is wrong with the HT lead.
Primary lead give 1 Ohm reading, but HT lead does not show any reading.
I am suspecting the lead issue because it feels loose at the coil connection when I try slightly to move or twist it.
So , my question is if HT fire is "fixed" connected to coil or there is a way to pull it out an inspect or replace.

I am OMC guy and this is only my third Yam motor, so I do not know such little things. With OMC coils you can remove and redo leads.
I do not see any of those F6T405 coils available, so do not want just to break it by too much force applied.
 

QBhoy

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Spark plug is new NGK B7HS.
All gaps checked to specs above.
When it did not start after a few pulls I suspected fuel issue because I knew spark was there.
I injected fuel into cylinder manually and it was not even sneeze.
So, it is "no spark" issue and the question is if coil died or something is wrong with the HT lead.
Primary lead give 1 Ohm reading, but HT lead does not show any reading.
I am suspecting the lead issue because it feels loose at the coil connection when I try slightly to move or twist it.
So , my question is if HT fire is "fixed" connected to coil or there is a way to pull it out an inspect or replace.

I am OMC guy and this is only my third Yam motor, so I do not know such little things. With OMC coils you can remove and redo leads.
I do not see any of those F6T405 coils available, so do not want just to break it by too much force applied.
Ok. Fair play. So being a guy that has only really used expensive fluke meters over the years, I was always just used to the industry standard of them showing “OL” meaning open circuit or infinity reading when you went across a system that wasn’t or shouldn’t be anointed on have continuity. But recently a friend had a meter from a cheap source on eBay that showed an indication of “1” or similar for the same thing. Reported to me over the phone on a fault finding mission we had. This on his meter meant open circuit or infinity. And not 1 ohms as he first thought.
Just something to be aware of.
So, as you’ll no doubt know, your HT lead should show continuity for sure. As close to 0 ohms as possible and likely ideally and real world of about 0.3-0. Something just close. If you are getting no reading or infinity, your HT lead 100% has an issue and is the main or entire fault of your issue. Hope that helps.
 

andreipou

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Do you know if I can pull HT lead from coil or it sits there permanently?
 

QBhoy

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Do you know if I can pull HT lead from coil or it sits there permanently?
I don’t know for sure, being honest. But it looks very similar to almost all of the small yams from the 80’s. I’ll have a look at mine tomorrow for you. Can’t say that I’ve ever had any issues with the coils on any of mine over the decades. I’ve tested a few of them years ago (when they actually just needed new plugs to get running) there should be a referenced reading(s) for the coils at room temperature usually.
I’ll go look at mine tomorrow and see if it looks as if the lead will separate
 

andreipou

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I disassembled it again, filed and cleaned points, checked every wire, put everything back.
One thing I also did: put electric tape over worn grommet where HT lead goes to coil to prevent it from moving and leakage.
Got nice blue spark!
Motor starts with one pull.
Ran it in the tank and adjusted the carb as needed.
My guess: loose connection of HT was the problem, but I do not want to mess with it since it works and replacement coil is not available.

I did not find proper operating temperature in the manual.
I got reading of 114 F on the spot between intake of silencer and back cover.
Does it sound right?
 

QBhoy

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I disassembled it again, filed and cleaned points, checked every wire, put everything back.
One thing I also did: put electric tape over worn grommet where HT lead goes to coil to prevent it from moving and leakage.
Got nice blue spark!
Motor starts with one pull.
Ran it in the tank and adjusted the carb as needed.
My guess: loose connection of HT was the problem, but I do not want to mess with it since it works and replacement coil is not available.

I did not find proper operating temperature in the manual.
I got reading of 114 F on the spot between intake of silencer and back cover.
Does it sound right?
Excellent news ! All sounds well. Go enjoy her and amazing to hear of another of these old beauties up and running again.
 
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