1974 Chieftain 25 "Adventurer" Restoration

[IslandExplorer]

I would for sure suggest sealing or even glass over that plywood to give it some extra resistance to water/moisture.

Some guys were using outdoor rated wood sealer to coat the wood to keep costs down.

I went with West Marine epoxy, stuff is super strong and easy to work with.
but it's not cheap.

I went as far as to predrill my holes a little too large, then seal those holes up with a few coats of epoxy to ensure a long life.

a minimum of two coats was my general rule, and i used wax paper to help hold the epoxy onto the surface so I could do both sides at once.

Oh, it's definitely getting painted, I just haven't had time to paint (or pre paint) things. This project needs to be operational asap and has taken longer than expected so I'm going to be forging ahead relentlessly. Boat is going in the water, one way or another. Liberty ship mode. Ideally I'd love to seal with epoxy but I haven't the budget for it unfortunately, will be lucky if I can even put gas in it at this point! LOL So far I've been using my go-to paint: Rustoleum alkyd enamel and the grippy porch/patio paint. Been impressed with Rustoleum products for many years, tough stuff! Another big thing is it dries super fast which has helped since I'm in New Seattle lol
Never tried wax paper to do both sides with epoxy, sounds pretty slick!

 

[IslandExplorer]

Finally tackled the bow crossmembers. Doubled up the first one that goes through the anchor locker. The 3 rear 3/8 pulpit through bolts go through the angle that ties it directly into the cross. The old bow lifting eye is now a rigid support strut. The pulpit is now extremely rigid, was standing on end of it like a diving board this AM as a quick test. Now just need to put locker in and reinstall the longitudinal bow braces... Bow is almost done.

 

[Gibbles]

Trick with the wax paper is to first use name brand.
Difference in the amount of wax they use (for some reason).
Cheap stuff I ended up sanding off, the brand name stuff peeled off clean and nice.

Then just get all of the air out, otherwise the epoxy will get bubbles in it.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Progress. Windlass and anchor rode locked and loaded, cedar ceiling over dining area.

View attachment VID_20230928_135554.mp4

 

[IslandExplorer]

Stove mounted with aluminum isolation tabs, aluminum taped, faucet fitted up, recess in wall for door handle, etc.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Plumbing for sink completed. Added a valve setup allowing to run off either of the two different pickups on tank. One is half way up and allows only first 50% of the 15G, the other draws from bottom of tank and goes to empty. Water flows very smoothly at all ranges with the pressure reservoir at 10psi. Variable flow pump works awesome. Was nice to wash my hands in the boat for the first time.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Today was a real blood bath lol That's what ya get for cutting wiry damn stainless steel in a rush without gloves like an idiot! In any case, that material will work nice as a heat shield and easy clean splash guard. Aluminum taped underside of kitchen cabinets. Will be getting a small heat deflecting hood as well later on. Managed to get the cupboard mounted and stove back in place but neglected to photo. Think the 14hrs and blood loss made me lazy towards the end!

 

[IslandExplorer]

Kitchen now complete with its cupboards. Made it so there is an optional fold out 16" extension to the kitchen counter for extra filleting and baking room. Simple aluminum piano hinge attached to the teak. Still need to make a prop rod for it. Kitchen counter is pretty descent sized in compact mode (48"W x 25"D) and quite large with foldout (64"W x 25"D) so I'm very pleased with how it worked out and the admiralty is too! Cupboard installation is pretty big for this boat (43x19x19) but I think that'll be great with all the cooking gear and whatnot we'll be bringing along. Can finally say I've got myself a real galley!

 

[IslandExplorer]

Stove/oven pocket. Left air gap all around with pathways for air to convect around the oven to help cool it. Aluminum tape should help reflect some heat and provide some fire resistance. Water pump, accumulator tank, and most of the hoses are in a separated area behind the stove.

 

[Gibbles]

if you want to rebuild that nose structure,
Pull the rub rail insert out by starting from the back with the transom corner caps off, from there you should see either rivets or bolts.

You will need access to the backside in order to get the nuts off.
Once the railing has been removed, it's easy to get access to the pop rivets holding the nose on/down.

Not easy, but it's an option.

 

[IslandExplorer]

if you want to rebuild that nose structure,
Pull the rub rail insert out by starting from the back with the transom corner caps off, from there you should see either rivets or bolts.

You will need access to the backside in order to get the nuts off.
Once the railing has been removed, it's easy to get access to the pop rivets holding the nose on/down.

Not easy, but it's an option.

That's definitely good to know! Was wondering how the edges were fastened. Hoping I don't have to dig in to that.. Luckily the bow deck feels really sturdy walking on it now that the supports are back in and adjusted a little. Hoping sealant and paint will finish up the bow later. It definitely was leaking a couple drops by the windshield last rain storm but I haven't resealed the seam there yet so hopefully that's all it is.

 

[IslandExplorer]

As a friend reminded me, might be time to touch base with the mechanical systems I haven't even touched since focusing on the cabin for so long. Cabin is pretty close, so figured it is indeed time to check on the below deck cockpit area and start getting that sweet small block V8 back in there! I still don't have a console to control any of it so that's probably next.

 

[ejnichol]

Are you going back with the original 188 motor?

 

[IslandExplorer]

Are you going back with the original 188 motor?

Yes, I sure am. And the Mercruiser model 1 outdrive. Hoping the 302 is going to hold up ok but until underway in regular use conditions I won't really know.. Still haven't done my tune up to it yet but I did weld the crane boom up stronger yesterday adding a safety chain and hoisted the motor up onto a table to be worked on more easily. I still need to put in all new ignition including distributor, mech fuel pump, do a carb rebuild, and I need to replace all of the freeze plugs because they're all corroded out and leak profusely. One I discovered was held in by a wooden wedge if you can believe it! lol But despite all this- I think the motor still has some good life left in it considering how clean the old oil was and how easily it started after so long and all despite just totally rigging the points with my dad. It started up and ran numerous times with no contactor pads at the points! I just roughly set a gap in the metal arm piece with sand paper where the points should be for the short test runs I did. Altogether I've probably run it only about 10 minutes or so total bc of unknown cooling.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Luckily I spotted this tiny stowaway that hopped onto the parts I was snapping shots of and was able to get her to safety. Watch out for little rubber crumbs (presumably from mfg cutting) clinging inside new filler hoses.
Old plastic filler necks are in terrible shape.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Ford 302 ready for tuneup. You can see the terrible freeze plug condition. The ones I have to replace are brass and seem like they'd last way longer. These old Mercruisers came with steel from the factory I'm guessing? Some have surely been replaced over the years as the expandable types show.

 

[IslandExplorer]

A few small victories. Stove works great in its mounting, oven consistently held 425 over about 2 hrs last night as a test. Water system remaining pressurized over night with pump off. Found one super slow leak at a hose clamp, not bad!

 

[IslandExplorer]

Trying to figure out how and where I'll mount these two group 24 house batteries.. Asked the site foreman but he was too busy catching a nap on the back of the boat. Thinking this forward compartment might be best to help balance more weight to the front for easier planing. Started making a quick cedar control panel for interior lights and water pump and whatnot. The space next to it will be the top (and likely only) drawer. Just really wanted an actual drawer, you know, to feel like I'm in the big leagues lol Sheet metal cut for the galley heat shield, added a GFCI outlet umbilical for shore/barn power, definitely beats the extension cord out a window setup!

 

[IslandExplorer]

Got a couple freeze plugs out, still have to remove motor mount to get to some of them better. Is RTV a good sealant for the new ones? Read Indian Head is good and I have that stuff too.

 

[Gibbles]

The guy that installed the oil gally plugs on my jeep engine build used loctite 680 retaining compound.
I don't know if that's correct for water jacket freeze plugs, but the oil gally plugs wasn't something that I wanted leaking out of the back of my engine.

I used black RTV over the top of them before I painted the block because I trust nothing.