Evinrude 20 Poor Water Flow

[JDusza]

Hi.
Evinrude overheating. E20ELESB.
Removed a lot of rubber from the cylinder cooling jackets. Hard to believe what was in there. Had to come up in smaller bits and then coagulate and remelt inside the jacket. This was pretty bad. Thought we found the cause.
With a garden hose, pushed water up the water tube and the block pees where you'd expect so we thought we were successful.
New thermostat.
Rebuilt the water pump with the exception of the drive key. This will come up later as it is a plastic wedge, not woodruff.
Spun the driveshaft using a drill, with the lower unit in a barrel. Water does make it up the water tube.
Reassembled. Run in a barrel.
No water exiting the pee hole at idle+. Water does exit the exhaust leg. Top cylinder still wants to overheat climbing past 190 F.
Water will exit pee hole if engine rpm is up above 2500. Top cylinder will still overheat. Bottom cylinder running around 150-160.
Do we think there is still some rubber inside the engine block somewhere?
Could the drive key be slipping?
Impeller is proper.
Thank you, J

 

[racerone]

When the motor left the factory there were 3 rubber pieces installed in the block.-----They guide water around for proper cooling.------Are those 3 pieces installed now ??

 

[saltchuckmatt]

You might find this interesting.

Rubber pieces are at the top of the block in the water area slowing or channeling the flow.

Let's call it metering.

 

[JDusza]

Thank you for the help.
Racerone, can you identify the pieces for me from the IPL that I may see them? They do not sound familiar to me.
Here's a picture of what I got from inside the jacket.
J

 

[racerone]

The pieces shown in the above picture are from a water pump impeller.----In the parts pictures the water guides in the block are called " deflectors" .----Items are required and 2 of one part and 1 of the other.

 

[JDusza]

Thank you. Always there for me. Cheers! J

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Thank you. Always there for me. Cheers! J

it sounds like you have a chunk of rubber blocking either the water inlet (goes into exhaust 1st) or exit by the head. but really only way to fix is to remove the powerhead. did you shoot compressed air into the water/indicator hose, into the copper water tube, and up into the exhaust (motor should be dry for this one, obviously)? thermostat was tested in a pot of boiling water with the correct grommet properly installed (not underneath the t stat head, but peel onto it?)? water pump impeller 0-ring correctly installed and not pinched?

 

[JDusza]

I've got the diverters in my sights. They do need to be replaced and indeed, if they were in there, they were pulled out with all the other junk.

Now, my trouble is, the parts list doesn't clearly show which one goes in which position.

Qty (2) of 335603 and qty (1) of 335602, shown side-by-side on my parts list.
I haven't received them yet, to see, but, since the part numbers are different, there must be a difference in form, fit or function. Location must matter.
Inside the jacket, I can see the casting bump features which indicate positions of something(s) round. Must be these diverters. But, which one goes where?
Thank you, J

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

I've got the diverters in my sights. They do need to be replaced and indeed, if they were in there, they were pulled out with all the other junk.

Now, my trouble is, the parts list doesn't clearly show which one goes in which position.

Qty (2) of 335603 and qty (1) of 335602, shown side-by-side on my parts list.
I haven't received them yet, to see, but, since the part numbers are different, there must be a difference in form, fit or function. Location must matter.
Inside the jacket, I can see the casting bump features which indicate positions of something(s) round. Must be these diverters. But, which one goes where?
Thank you, J

usually leaking or missing diverters will cause it to overheat midrange-top end so still think you've got a chunk of something or oxidation related blockage from the water inlet hole at bottom of block into exhaust but i guess its possible it would overheat this way. as long as diverters can be fully seated (i use a drill bit to find the bottom of suface and compare to diverter then trim off the top with a razor if needed) and obstruct water where it needs to be obstructed i dont think it matters. some waterproof grease will be needed, or sealant on install.

 

[JDusza]

Got the diverters. Figured out where they go. Put them in.
Waiting on a new water tube grommet for inside the exhaust tube.
Then back together for tryout.
Thank you all, J

 

[JDusza]

Well, ....
Diverters in. No water from pee hole.
Disconnected lower leg, attach garden hose to water tube. Plenty of water flowing through the block exiting the exhaust and pee hole.
Started the engine without the leg and without thermostat. The cylinders stay cold at 110F. I believe I have solved the power head distribution problem.
Put a drill on the drive shaft with lower leg in a barrel and see nothing coming out of the water pump. Anything that does dribble up will definitely not make to the engine 18 inches away against gravity.
So, why does the pump not pump? New impeller, drive key, verified path open to pump. Drive shaft spins..... Water path exit is clear.
Is my drill too slow? That doesn't answer why the engine doesn't pee. Engine revs at 2K rpm....
The impeller fits snugly in the cup. It is in correctly, What about this plastic tear-drop key? Do these things slip?
This is beating me up.
J

 

[racerone]

Factory impeller or something else ?-----When testing in a bucket water MUST be 6" above impeller.

 

[JDusza]

Okay. Good to know. We may not be 6 inches above.
Not positive on parts' source. They were provided. Might be Sierra. However, the box label says Full Power Plus Impellers, Marine Pump and Part Corporation and UPC label does have Chinese characters.
The kit number on the box is 393630. I have yet to look it up.
Thanks, racerone, I'm gonna go back and test at a verified water level.
J

 

[racerone]

Install a factory impeller !-----I do not use ones made by the ----" hooflungdung "---- corporation.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Could be your water jacket has internal damage.

What happens when you run it other than nothing peeing?

Try running it and seeing if it heats up. If not put a hot alarm on it and run it

My IT guy would say...I just went around it.

 

[JDusza]

Water level made a huge difference.
And, ..... we found a trickling head gasket, so that pressure drop can't be helping. New gasket on the way.
And, ...... the engine needs revs to push water out the pee hole. The exhaust always shows water. With revs up, pee is pretty good. At idle pee will stop and temp will start to climb.
No thermostat as we are still troubleshooting, temperature is a cool 110 F adjacent to the spark plug.
I
Head gasket and impeller change coming up.
Thank you all.
Recerone, all the best to you. Thank you.
J

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Make sure you "true" the head.

Sandpaper on a super flat surface in a figure 8 pattern.

Remember their aluminum.