Rectangular plate ("lower crankcase head"?) now removed.
Should the crankcase seal (p/n 336168) lift away freely without removal of the smaller snap ring or other fasteners?
.....On the rubber seal fitted into the plate (i.e. lower crank seal p/n 329086) . Is this seal OK to reuse as is...
1st pic shows drive shaft, lower crank shaft seal and lower housing plate of a 1998 4HP.
Goal is to free seized drive shaft using section of pipe, cable clamps, washers to force the driveshaft out/away from the powerhead.
Should I use washers (size, type?) against the lip of this seal...
Thanks. Guess I'll have to keep carb cleaner spray away from this plastic piece on carb exterior? Not exactly sure how I'll do that.....in my limited experience the carb cleaner spray tends to go everywhere....perhaps why it's an effective solvent!
Is the plastic carb bowl manufactured to...
Thanks --- I've been trying that approach but will try again. BTW - there's plastic fitting on exterior of carb (linkage to butterfly). Do you know if this plastic piece is easily removed? I'd like to soak carb in parts cleaner, but not with plastic fitting attached and not if it means damaging...
1998 4HP plastic linkage connecting air box to fuel shutoff valve at carb base.
Wish to avoid damage to this "symphony in plastic" apparatus.
Ideas on required technique or tool? Thanks for your thoughts.
Because many of the "Top Secret" file links for helpful "how to's" no longer reflect the proper content, anyone willing to offer external links to recommended techniques they've seen for start-to-finish head servicing/gasket replacement on OMC motors?
Understood. If folks have credible online resources in mind to which you can point the uninitiated on head & exhaust gasket install, efficient way to clean water passages and what to look for in cylinders, please do speak up.
The old engine service manual site (offshore) isn't loading for me and...
Although I cannot immediately answer that question, I can tell you that I increased the gap on the ancient J4C plugs to 0.035" and the motor seemed to fire just fine. Since you asked re: spark, I am assuming a link to water making its way into lower cylinder and to the decline in compression...
Have had an awakened '69 4HP Lightwin on the water a handful of times. Not original owner. I replaced impeller and used carb kit. Cleaned points and gapped to 0.02. Ran pretty well a handful of times, but have been cautious on potential of overheating issue. Very old exhaust cover and head...
Never considered this! There was a slight bend in the water tube I noticed first time (only time) I removed lower unit. I hope this is not my problem, but can add it to my troubleshooting list.
When I forced water up the tube it seemed to emit exclusively from an area very close to the short...
Have been testing a 4906b on a square stern Old Town canoe (rated for 4HP). After a few uses with significant time at WOT, compression is holding at 90psi per cylinder. Per Ramblings, bearings in this vintage require an oil mix of 24/1 and use JC4 plugs (which in fact I found installed when I...
SS Gland nut is screwed as far as it will go into the threading and yet the needle is loose. Have used 2 needle packing rings. Must have examined carb parts diagram 25 times....it does not show the rubber ring/seal I'm referencing. The ring/seal is seated inside the carb body (appears to be...
New packing has helped -- but gland nut does NOT tighten around SS needle. (Duct tape on SS adjustment knob to hold in place is not a sustainable solution.)
HS needle gland nut DOES tighten properly.
Carb has rubber-type ring/seal at back of HS needle port.
Should same part reside in SS needle...
