Yoke seal

[Franco_boater]

Ciao friends,
I will need to change upper oil seal there is a leak there, I found information that yoke needs to be replaced, thats OK i have ordered spanner BUT...
if all the upper gearcase will be removed its smart to change yoke seal and oring.
I have dial torque wrench for that and thats ok but what I dont know do I need to separate the bearings or not? I will only replace seal and o ring I am afraid of that because I have only bearing separator in my garage, no press...

 

[Franco_boater]

Hello @achris i cannot edit my post, Ive found picture on the Internet,

If I have assembly like this Gen2, where I have to put the bearing separator and how much separate ?? Can You mark it please for me... Thank You

 

[Bt Doctur]

no need for a bearing separator unless your removing the bearings. If you can slide the bearings off the gear ,you have a old style that just gets torqued .
new type is rolling torque type. To do that corretly you can use a dead blow hammer to slightly seperate the bearing package and use rolling torque to tighten the nut.

Or if you can locate an inner ring from a older gearset you can just torque the nut when used with a later type gear.

 

[Franco_boater]

Good morning,
All what I need is to replace only the SEAL and Oring there... but found the info I need to split the bearing thats why I am so concerned..
Boat is in my marina so far I don't know what kind of gear set Ive got,
do You have a picture how to recognise them ? Is the picutre above shows the older when when rolling torque is no needed and only what i can do is retorque it again? I cannot find that info in manual 14, to what torque value?
Can You tell me if this one below is later and this one does need rolling torque?
I am not afraid of rolling torque setting, ive got dial type torque, im afraid of this bearing separation procedure/setting only...

I think my drive is after serial no 0L100009 but whats inside we will see...





I am really sorry for maybe stupid questions but after complete job You are welcome in Italy and my wifes best pasta ! (or pizza but I prefer pasta )

 

[achris]

Ciao... (from Australia)

Good morning,
All what I need is to replace only the SEAL and Oring there... but found the info I need to split the bearing thats why I am so concerned..

When they say 'split the bearing' it just means to release the preload so it can be set up properly when you reassemble it. And before you ask, not you can't not set it up..

Boat is in my marina so far I don't know what kind of gear set Ive got,

You have a Gen II drive, it uses the rolling torque method to set up the bearing preload.

do You have a picture how to recognise them ? Is the picutre above shows the older when when rolling torque is no needed and only what i can do is retorque it again? I cannot find that info in manual 14, to what torque value?

ALL Gen II drives use rolling torque method, that's why you won't find a torque value in the manual.

Can You tell me if this one below is later and this one does need rolling torque?
I am not afraid of rolling torque setting, ive got dial type torque, im afraid of this bearing separation procedure/setting only...

It's nothing to worry about..

I think my drive is after serial no 0L100009 but whats inside we will see...

No inner spacer. Uses rolling torque.

I am really sorry for maybe stupid questions but after complete job You are welcome in Italy and my wifes best pasta ! (or pizza but I prefer pasta )

Italian pasta is the BEST, as are the pizzas...

Chris.......

 

[achris]

When you remove this nut...


you can then pull the yoke (with the cover nut, seal carrier, o-ring, etc) out of the bearing pack. Because the drive gear shaft diameter is slightly larger than the bearing inner race inner diameter, the bearings stay pressed on the gear. It is this pressure that you need to release, as the manual states, by 'splitting the bearing'. All you need to do is give the non-gear end for the gear shaft a light hit with the hammer (copper-faced so to not damage the shaft) and the bearings will release their pressure. You can then do the seal replacement (remember to check the surface of the yoke where the seal runs. If it's damaged from corrosion, you can press the seal into the carrier about 1mm deeper and it will ride on a new section of the yoke). when you start to reassemble it all, you set up the bearing preload again with the rolling toque. As I have even more tools, I actually press the bearings completely off the gear and give them a thorough wash and oil. If they feel even slightly rough, in the bin, new bearings. Have you found my video on setting up rolling torque?

Chris....

 

[Franco_boater]

Yes I have checked your video, its very good and resonable for me.
1. Question about light hit, how much hit is enough? How I can recognize the hit relased the pressure?
I can try to find or rent this tool maybe? But hitting with copper hammer is easier but I am afraid how much hit is enough to relase it and how I can recognize its done.



:: @achris , 2. I have found your post when someone had a water leak from top cover, you said to throw to the bin this plug
then put a THIN smear of sealant around the water jackets, I havent got leak there before,
Can I leave it as it is or do it in advance and get rid of this plug??

3. I have new yoke seal and it has some green locktide (?) on the OD, Do You put PerfectSeal around it as well or no needed??

 

[achris]

Yes I have checked your video, its very good and reasonable for me.
1. Question about light hit, how much hit is enough? How I can recognize the hit released the pressure?

You can feel the bearings when the preload is released. Before you hit it, try to turn the bearings. They'll feel a little tight, that's the preload. After you hit it, the bearings will feel much easier to turn.

I can try to find or rent this tool maybe? But hitting with copper hammer is easier but I am afraid how much hit is enough to release it and how I can recognize its done.

I also have that tool, and I use it as a press plate. You'll find it difficult to get the edges into any space between the bearings... Best just hit it.

2. I have found your post when someone had a water leak from top cover, you said to throw to the bin this plug, then put a THIN smear of sealant around the water jackets, I havent got leak there before,
Can I leave it as it is or do it in advance and get rid of this plug??

The problem with the plug it that it isn't completely water tight, and water gets above it and sits there. That's when all the little salts have a party, and they eat away at the aluminium at the top of the drive, just where the cap sits. Once they make it though, you have a water leak. Best bin the thing now, clean up the surfaces nicely, wipe down with acetone and a thin layer of silicone blue.

3. I have new yoke seal and it has some green locktide (?) on the OD, Do You put PerfectSeal around it as well or no needed??

Nope, that green stuff is how Merc seal it up. Works perfectly. The way I press the seal in with a special tool I made. It's a thick piece of steel with a 1mm offset edge, that I tap the seal down beyond the edge of the carrier with.

Chris......

 

[Franco_boater]

Thank You all is now more clear for me, We have perfect seal, is that ok or should I buy blue silicone??

 

[achris]

Perfect seal will be fine.

 

[Franco_boater]

Ok, before disassembly I will check rolling torque on existing set, then I will try to set a new one after smacking with plastic hammer.
I found in some manual there is a range in torque but in my manual #14 it says only the limiting value which is 5.5 lb-in. (0.55 Nm) for used bearings],
Also I have found some old thread where Don_S posted page from manual where was hammering procedure shown but in my #14 its nothing, does he has other doc ?? Ciao

 

[Franco_boater]

Can I reuse the nut from the gear set?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok, before disassembly I will check rolling torque on existing set, then I will try to set a new one after smacking with plastic hammer.
I found in some manual there is a range in torque but in my manual #14 it says only the limiting value which is 5.5 lb-in. (0.55 Nm) for used bearings],
Also I have found some old thread where Don_S posted page from manual where was hammering procedure shown but in my #14 its nothing, does he has other doc ?? Ciao

Don has been boating with Jesus for many years

 

[Franco_boater]

I am sorry...
He posted this
But I cant find this info in 14 manual... and my manual says only 5.25lb-in but above we have some range... why

 

[achris]

I am sorry...
He posted this
But I cant find this info in 14 manual... and my manual says only 5.25lb-in but above we have some range... why

The manual was revised, and the single figure is the target.

 

[Franco_boater]

Oh didn't know that... so 5.25lbinch is the limit and can be below that value or the final target torque value?

 

[achris]

When you're setting the preload, 5.25lb-inch is the value you are trying to set. It's the final target value.

Chris......

 

[Franco_boater]

Thank You, how tight the bearings should be while spinning it in hand When removed from my Yoke it was quite tight...Take care

 

[achris]

Thank You, how tight the bearings should be while spinning it in hand When removed from my Yoke it was quite tight...Take care

That sounds right.

 

[Franco_boater]

Is it right when tight? I think its too tight but I dont know, will try while rolling torque, shouldn't it spin with ease?
for example my driven gear on the shaft spins very easily, without any ressistance but the Yoke gears and bearings are quite tight I dont know if its preload set too much... I was hammering and nothing better