Winterization- Drain Plug Locations, Etc.

[KenleyF]

2006 Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi-G
SN4012207365
Driveway stored in Atlanta, GA area.

Rookie here needing some winterizing tips. I have read many of the threads here but currently experiencing information overload and don't want to make an expensive mistake.

I have found the two manifold plugs but are there block plugs on this engine? If so, where are they located? Is there a total of 4 plugs to pull plus all the hoses to remove most of the water? The way the engine is situated in the boat (Monterey 220 EX) I can't see the block where the spark plugs are must less any plugs.

What is the best "fogging" mixture and should I run it via a tank through fuel filter or just pour directly into fuel filter?

I am already learning lots from you all and any help is much appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Scott Danforth]

best is to follow the manual.

there is a block drain, center of block, just above the pan rail on both sides.
drain them, the exhaust manifolds, the raw water pump and the large hose

optional, if you want to add antifreeze for corrosion protection, add -100F antifreeze. not the pink RV stuff, however engine storage AF with the corrosion inhibitors.

fogging is usually running the engine from a small tank prior to draining. a 50:1 oil mix

some people just add a bit of oil to the fuel filter.

 

[KenleyF]

Scott, Thank you for the quick/helpful reply!
Do you have a resource where I can get my hands or eyes on the manual for free or, at least, affordable?

Other than removing the T-stat how do I ensure it will remain open long enough to get AF in the block? I plan to change the engine oil/filter as part of winterization which means I will run the engine a while but not sure it will remain open for AF.

How long would you suggest running on the 50:1 mixture? Would you suggest adding Sta-Bil or Marvel Mystery Oil to this mixture as well/

Sorry... I know.... rookie questions.

Thank you.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Scott, Thank you for the quick/helpful reply!
Do you have a resource where I can get my hands or eyes on the manual for free or, at least, affordable?

Other than removing the T-stat how do I ensure it will remain open long enough to get AF in the block? I plan to change the engine oil/filter as part of winterization which means I will run the engine a while but not sure it will remain open for AF.

How long would you suggest running on the 50:1 mixture? Would you suggest adding Sta-Bil or Marvel Mystery Oil to this mixture as well/

Sorry... I know.... rookie questions.

Thank you.

Google volvo penta manuals. Their manual site comes up

Never ever ever suck up AF. If you want to add it, you use a funnel and pour into the thernostat housing. Ther thermostat will almost never open while in the muffs

If you plan on changing oil filter location (remote filter)
Make sure you use the Volvo Pe,ta kit, or change the PRV in the filter housing. Also,dont accidently flip-flop the hoses. It will bypass the filter and you will toast your motor

No more than 15 minutes on the small tank with 50:1

 

[KenleyF]

Again, Thank you!
Right.... was planning on pouring AF directly in T-stat housing. Based on your reply, I assume the AF will be sneak past the actual T-stat and into the block? Sorry, maybe I don't understand exactly how the T-stat works.

Wasn't planning on changing oil filter location. Is there a reason to do that? My plan was to extract oil via dipstick with a pump, replace the filter in its current location and the fill with VP oil.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Wasn't planning on changing oil filter location. Is there a reason to do that? My plan was to extract oil via dipstick with a pump, replace the filter in its current location and the fill with VP oil.

I misread on my phone, I though you were changing the oil filter location.

 

[KenleyF]

Whew... you had me worried I was missing an opportunity for an easy upgrade!

So.... what about AF sneaking past the actual T-stat when I pour it in the housing?

 

[Lou C]

OK a few things, if you want to avoid an expensive mistake you MUST get at the block drains. So do whatever you have to do to gain access to those drain plugs, remove the rear seats, bulkheads, stand on your head, etc. Then poke each one with a pick to make sure it drains. Next disconnect the bottom end of the big hose that connects the front circulation pump to the thermostat housing. That will drain a fair amount of water as well. For the next step put the outdrive down. Then disconnect the hose feeding the impeller housing from the transom, point that hose down in the bilge to drain. Fill that hose with marine -100 AF till it comes out the drive water intakes. This will push water out of the PS cooler behind the engine and out of the hoses that go through the transom mount. You can now reconnect this hose to the impeller housing.
Now for filling with AF if you want to use AF
put some gasket sealer on the threads for the block drain plugs and the manifold drain plugs and replace the drain plugs.
Re-connect the large hose at the bottom end by the circulation pump and disconnect it at the top end. Put a funnel in it and fill the engine with -100 till it spurts out the thermostat housing neck. Now reconnect that hose, engine is filled NO NEED to pull out the 'stat. Next, disconnect the hoses that feed each exhaust manifold at the 'stat housing, fill each one with AF till the AF runs out the transom mount, then re-connect those hoses. Lastly on the Volvo I might disconnect the hose that goes from the impeller housing to the stat housing at the stat housing and fill it with AF as well.
So now you're all drained, and after this, you will understand why some people do not like I/Os with raw water cooling especially because inconsiderate boat designers make things very difficult to get at. If your engine had even a half closed cooling kit (engine only) this would be 100% easier and faster. But this is what you have to do, or else!
I used to use the -100, but now mix up a batch of Sierra Propylene Glycol AF at 50/50 with water because it is more than adequate for my climate and about half the price. The -50 or -60 I do not use because they get solid at about 10*F and here we go to zero some winters, I think they are OK for PVC pipes but do not belong in a cast iron engine, I don't care how many marinas use it, I won't! I use a refractometer to measure the strength of the mix, more accurate than the simple eyedropper antifreeze testers....
Been doing it this way close to 20 years, no problems.
You'll need 4-4.5 gallons to get the job done.

 

[KenleyF]

Lou,
Thank you for the helpful reply! I think I am now brave enough to get this done. Just need to make sure I find all the plugs, etc.!

Thank you.

 

[KenleyF]

Good afternoon.
Just had a boat mechanic tell me to NOT run the 50:1 mixture through my fuel system. He said I would foul the plugs and sensors. Since I am a newbie, I am easily persuaded since mistakes on boats are expensive!

He suggested using fogging oil via the "air horn" until the engine dies. I'm not sure where the air horn is or if this is the right way to fog my engine for winter storage.

What are your thoughts on what he is suggesting?

 

[Lou C]

Well I have one of these:

so it's hard to say but if you have a throttle body for either TBI or port fuel injection, and you have sensors in the throttle body, it would seem that the fogging oil could foul those sensors. What does Volvo Penta say?

 

[KenleyF]

Sorry.... I do not have any VP manuals, etc. to know what they say. Eventually I will invest in these if I keep up this DIY crusade.

 

[Lou C]

I'd try to get a hold of a VP manual ASAP, for example Mercruiser tells you to mix a 10% mix of TCW-III oil (2qts) into a 6 gallon outboard tank with 5 gallons of gas and stabil to fog their EFI engines, even the latest ones in use. 50:1 is less strong than that (50:1 is only 2% so I can't see it doing any harm), approx 3 oz of oil to each gallon of gas.

 

[Scott Danforth]

excerpt from VP manual in similar thread. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/winterizing-question.752097/post-5724129

 

[Bt Doctur]

If this is your motor you have an MPI and must use the fuel cocktail mix or risk damaging the sensors

 

[BRICH1260]

Good afternoon.
Just had a boat mechanic tell me to NOT run the 50:1 mixture through my fuel system. He said I would foul the plugs and sensors. Since I am a newbie, I am easily persuaded since mistakes on boats are expensive!

He suggested using fogging oil via the "air horn" until the engine dies. I'm not sure where the air horn is or if this is the right way to fog my engine for winter storage.

What are your thoughts on what he is suggesting?

I do not agree with this. You have a multi port injector engine. There are a lot of sensors in the intake portion of this engine that will be damaged by the spray in fogging oil. Plus you are not treating the injectors by spraying. Spray is for carb`d motors.

The easiest way to fog a injected motor is to pour two cycle oil into the fuel filter. It will mix with fuel and be carried into the fuel system.

 

[KenleyF]

Well.... I took the advice of the "local" boat mechanic and sprayed fogging oil directly into the throttle body. Guess there is a chance I might learn a hard lesson but hopefully not. Engine smoked and stumbled some before I shut it down.

I have all the water drained so I do not feel like doing this again to fog via the cocktail method. The block plug on the right side of the motor (port for boat) was an absolute PITA to get to but I found it! What are my true risks of not going through this again for the sake of fogging?

As a newbie, it sure is frustrating to get so many opinions on how to do something. I guess that is why I need to grab some manuals and follow those.

Again, all the help is truly appreciated.

 

[Lou C]

I still don't think he was right. Both Mercruiser & Volvo tell you to do the same thing basically, just different mixes of 2 stroke oil to gas, Merc says use 10% Volvo says to use 2%. In fact what you could do to make it REALLY easy is figure out how much gas the fuel filter holds....fill it and dump it into a marked container. Then figure out how much 2 stroke oil to add, to give a 50:1 mix (for a gallon its like a bit less than 3 oz so it's going to be a small amount..) put that in the fuel filter and run it for approx 2-3 min and shut it off.
Oh and when you get your next boat think strongly about a 4 stroke outboard, it will make your life a LOT easier!

 

[KenleyF]

I still don't think he was right. Both Mercruiser & Volvo tell you to do the same thing basically, just different mixes of 2 stroke oil to gas, Merc says use 10% Volvo says to use 2%. In fact what you could do to make it REALLY easy is figure out how much gas the fuel filter holds....fill it and dump it into a marked container. Then figure out how much 2 stroke oil to add, to give a 50:1 mix (for a gallon its like a bit less than 3 oz so it's going to be a small amount..) put that in the fuel filter and run it for approx 2-3 min and shut it off.
Oh and when you get your next boat think strongly about a 4 stroke outboard, it will make your life a LOT easier!

Fairly sure I will do it the way Volvo says for next year unless you all think it is really worth me having to drain all the water again.

 

[Lou C]

not worth re-doing it now because it is fogged, main concern is if the engine runs OK in spring, due to possible fouling of sensors. So I'd leave it be for now, just be aware of this in spring.