So, I had the crimp / ferral right behind the power steering pump crack on the high pressure hose while I was out (where the hard line goes to the rubber part of the hose). Put a hose clamp on it to get by and refilled the reservoir. Hard to steer one way and the rubber PS lines were jumping around alot when I tried to steer it. Limped it to the boat ramp and figured the actuator had a failure internally. Also, the fluid was super hot, so I thought also I may have a blocked PS cooler, or maybe something blocking the actuator return line.
Stood on my head and got the actuator out. Low and behold that clevis that connects to the outdrive tiller arm came unthreaded from the actuator ram / rod (red circle below). I find this odd. There is no jam nut, no locking feature. Nothing to stop that piston and rod from rotating and allowing the rod to back out. What am I missing here? What will stop this from happening again?
I think I know why the lines where jumping now as well. Any steering input would send the actuator to full speed / power till it bottomed out, and once that happened the pump would just hit the high pressure relief valve and super heat the fluid? You buy into this theory being accurate?
Stood on my head and got the actuator out. Low and behold that clevis that connects to the outdrive tiller arm came unthreaded from the actuator ram / rod (red circle below). I find this odd. There is no jam nut, no locking feature. Nothing to stop that piston and rod from rotating and allowing the rod to back out. What am I missing here? What will stop this from happening again?
I think I know why the lines where jumping now as well. Any steering input would send the actuator to full speed / power till it bottomed out, and once that happened the pump would just hit the high pressure relief valve and super heat the fluid? You buy into this theory being accurate?