Volvo Penta 3.0 GLP-D Choke/Starting Issue?

TulsaTime

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A while back, I crossed terminals on the battery....got white smoke coming off the alternator. Since then I have to put the boat in Nuetral - prime the carb several times - hold it in wide open throttle position and it starts at high rpm - I back it down really fast and runs fine at idle. I'm wondering if I blew the electric choke? or maybe burnt some other wire that controls the choke?
Also, the boat runs and idles perfect once started and warmed up. I do have to prime it to start it every time.
 

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alldodge

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Take the flame arrestor off
Prime the carb and see if the choke plate closes when its cold
 

bruceb58

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The electric choke heater is powered by an AC port off of the alternator. Check the voltage at the choke heater to see if you have AC voltage there.
 

TulsaTime

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The electric choke heater is powered by an AC port off of the alternator. Check the voltage at the choke heater to see if you have AC voltage there.
Thanks bruceb58, Makes sense to me, I don't however have a clue what that choke heater looks like. I can run a voltage check on anything, but I don't know what I'm looking for. Can you give me more information? If I don't have voltage, does that mean a new alternator or a new choke heater? Or both?
 

Lou C

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This is a Holley 4bbl, you have a 2bbl but the choke heater is the black plastic cylinder shaped piece with 2 electricial terminals on it, the + goes to the AC tap terminal as Bruce said and the - goes to ground. The electric choke closes by spring pressure and it opens with a constant 12V source being applied to it. Although this is called an AC tap, you do get DC voltage off of it, you can check with engine running with a voltmeter. You can also (carefully) run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the choke heater to the battery positive to see if applying 12V directly makes the choke plate open. Keep in mind that those choke heaters get HOT, so watch out!
Make sure the - is connected to a good ground.
Holley 4160.jpg
 

TulsaTime

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This is a Holley 4bbl, you have a 2bbl but the choke heater is the black plastic cylinder shaped piece with 2 electricial terminals on it, the + goes to the AC tap terminal as Bruce said and the - goes to ground. The electric choke closes by spring pressure and it opens with a constant 12V source being applied to it. Although this is called an AC tap, you do get DC voltage off of it, you can check with engine running with a voltmeter. You can also (carefully) run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the choke heater to the battery positive to see if applying 12V directly makes the choke plate open. Keep in mind that those choke heaters get HOT, so watch out!
Make sure the - is connected to a good ground.
View attachment 341018
Lou C, that's awesome information! Thanks a ton, I'll do a voltage test on it. Any idea what the line voltage should be at the choke heater? 12V? Also, I'm assuming I can get that part off iboats if needed?
 

Lou C

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Here it is! With the engine running it should be whatever the charging voltage of the alternator is. Mine's usually 14.2V. That part is a Holley part, no need to buy a special "marine" one. Its a Holley 2bbl carb. VOLVO PENTA 3.0 GLP-D.jpg
 

TulsaTime

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Here it is! With the engine running it should be whatever the charging voltage of the alternator is. Mine's usually 14.2V. That part is a Holley part, no need to buy a special "marine" one. Its a Holley 2bbl carb. View attachment 341034
Right on Lou C. - Thanks again for the help! Awesome information!
 

bruceb58

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Not sure how much DC you will be getting off the AC tap of an alternator. This is the diagram of the Volvo alternator showing the P terminal coming off one of the windings. No diode rectifier between the windings and the P terminal.

If you measure any DC voltage , that's just the offset voltage from ground. If you looked at it on a scope, its definitely AC.

Alternator.JPG
 
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TulsaTime

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you're welcome!
Lou C,
**update**
I have line voltage at the electric choke, but I don't see it working the choke plate. It's not warm to the to the touch, so could it be I need a new electric choke? Note that I did not check the line voltage while running. With the Key in the on position, line voltage was about 4.2V
 

bruceb58

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Lou C,
**update**
I have line voltage at the electric choke, but I don't see it working the choke plate. It's not warm to the to the touch, so could it be I need a new electric choke? Note that I did not check the line voltage while running. With the Key in the on position, line voltage was about 4.2V
Measure what is with the engine running on AC on your meter.
 

TulsaTime

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Hello,
I'm having a problem with low voltage at the electric choke. I started the boat up (after double pumping/priming the carburetor a few times (sort of like in an old car to get it start) Anyway, I've been starting it this way for a while. I put the volt meter on the electric choke and only read 7.25V.
Any body got an idea why I'm not getting 12V?
Maybe a relay switch?
I'm hoping once we get this straightened out, I won't have to prime the carb to start it.
Thanks in advance for the help.
 

TulsaTime

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Measure what is with the engine running on AC on your meter.
7.25V - running
.30V not running
I've started a new thread on this - I should have replied here instead. Hope that doesn't cause any confusion.
 

alldodge

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Maybe a MOD will move your other thread back to this one.

Need to know if the issue is from the choke plate not closing or is closing and not opening

When the Carb is first primed (1 time) and the motor is cold, does the choke plate close prior to starting?
 

TulsaTime

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Maybe a MOD will move your other thread back to this one.

Need to know if the issue is from the choke plate not closing or is closing and not opening

When the Carb is first primed (1 time) and the motor is cold, does the choke plate close prior to starting?
It is closed to about 85% to 90% - not fully closed.
The line voltage of 7.25V is DC voltage. I did not check the AC voltage while running. I'll do that next and report back. It appears the alternator may not be functioning correctly.
 

alldodge

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Unless your air temp is around 80*F or higher, the choke plate should be fully closed. When cold, turn the dash pot until it just closes

According to Bruce the voltage should be AC, and only way to get AC voltage is with it running. Not sure if there would be a DC reading prior to starting
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... You'll still have to pump the throttle to Wot, atleast once, to set the choke,......

Not sure where Volvo pulls choke voltage from,....
 
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