Trailer brake system opinions

[timharper89]

I have had my boat (4100 lbs w/ trailer) for a few years now and have been towing without major issues (8700 lbs towing capacity). I just learned that in Michigan, any trailer over 3000 lbs is required to have brakes. Now that I know the laws I can't pretend to be ignorant, but I have been thinking it would be much safer to tow with brakes anyway. My problem is there are surge brakes installed on the trailer right now, but the brake lines and master cylinder are completely empty and rusted. I think would have to replace the coupler and the lines and who knows what the other brake components look like. The current coupler is welded to the trailer, so I'd have to have that taken off.

My question : Is it cheaper to just buy an electric brake kit and install that and continue to use the current coupler? My use is 100% fresh water. I'm assuming the brake system on the trailer has been out of service for quite some time as the lines were dragging on the ground when I bought the boat and have not been used since then (2018), and I'll likely have to replace the entire system. Any thoughts, ideas, opinions? Thanks in advance

 

[dingbat]

My question : Is it cheaper to just buy an electric brake kit and install that and continue to use the current coupler? My use is 100% fresh water. I'm assuming the brake system on the trailer has been out of service for quite some time as the lines were dragging on the ground when I bought the boat and have not been used since then (2018), and I'll likely have to replace the entire system. Any thoughts, ideas, opinions? Thanks in advance

The only thing the conversion would save you is the cost of the coupler less the cost of a break away kit and the associated wiring.

Have to swap out the backing plates either way. Probably replace the drums as well if it's been sitting that long. Also need to install and wire a breakaway kit if you go electric.

I own both types. Actually prefer surge over electric because of ongoing wiring issues. Every couple of years I have to crawl underneath to find another chaffed or chewed (field mice) wire in the harness running through the frame.

Also have to deal with the never ending battle of the breakaway battery. Just not a fan of trailers in general.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I have never cared much for surge brakes. I installed electrics on my trailer and it was quite easy. that assumes your trailer already has the backing plate, which mine did.

I purchased a kit that included the brakes, new drums, wiring, breakaway box and plug. if you get the Dexter never adjust brakes, it’s even better; they require very little fiddling after installation.

I particularly like the extent to which I have control over how much braking to apply by using the trailer brake controller in the truck. if you run the electrical wires through the tube frame, or through plastic conduit, there is very little problem with wires getting chafed, etc.

 

[76SeaRay]

The only issue I have had with surge brakes is when trying to back up since the brakes would set up if you were backing up a slight incline. I replaced my backing plates when I rebuilt my brakes with the new style of backing plate that prevents the brakes from setting up when backing up a slope. So, I recommend those if you go with surge brakes.

 

[dingbat]

I replaced my backing plates when I rebuilt my brakes with the new style of backing plate that prevents the brakes from setting up when backing up a slope.

My 1986 boat/trailer combo came with "new style" brakes.

 

[BillWilliams]

I have had good luck with surge brakes with the caveat that the equipment is in good shape. On my last boat trailer (1987), I put a new master cylinder on it along with the shocks in the hitch assembly to absorb the movement of the hitch. I also put new brake lines in place. None of this was particular difficult and once I did that, I had good solid brakes.

Hopefully you can see the brand and model of components used for the master cylinder portion of your trailer and be able to purchase new matching parts.

 

[poconojoe]

I switched from surge to all electric and would never go back.

I was able to use my existing drums.

I had to add a breakaway kit with a backup battery. It's pretty cool. It gets charged whenever the trailer is connected to the truck.

Had change to a 7-pin (round) plug. I bought a kit with the molded plug with a junction box attached.

Had to run wires from tongue to each wheel.

I ran a bolt through the surge coupler to stop it from moving. No more slapping every time I brake or accelerate.

 

[bruceb58]

Electric over hydraulic with discs for me. I hate drum brakes whether they are hydraulic or electric.

 

[Nashville]

Electric over hydraulic with discs for me. I hate drum brakes whether they are hydraulic or electric.

Agree fully. So, so much better.

 

[H20Rat]

Surge brakes in freshwater work well. Very little maintenance, and they just work. With electrics, you have a battery to replace every couple of years (if you actually want to remain legal), as well as somewhat fragile wiring. I don't think I've gone longer than 5 years without some wiring cracking somewhere in the system.

 

[bruceb58]

Surge brakes in freshwater work well. Very little maintenance, and they just work. With electrics, you have a battery to replace every couple of years (if you actually want to remain legal), as well as somewhat fragile wiring. I don't think I've gone longer than 5 years without some wiring cracking somewhere in the system.

And make them disk brakes and they have very little maintenance.

 

[poconojoe]

I pull my breakaway battery for the winter and keep it on a maintainer, as I do with all my batteries.

 

[Lou C]

If you want to use electric brakes on a boat trailer in freshwater they do make galvanized electric brakes. The only issues I have had with surge brakes even in salt water has been in drum wheel cylinders seizing up (by the way happens with disc brakes just the same here) and the adjuster seizing up. I found a way to make standard wheel cylinders more water resistant and I extend the adjuster all the way and coat all the threads with heavy marine grease. Doing this I have gotten good life from the galvanized surge drum brakes.

 

[bruceb58]

If you want to use electric brakes on a boat trailer in freshwater they do make galvanized electric brakes. The only issues I have had with surge brakes even in salt water has been in drum wheel cylinders seizing up (by the way happens with disc brakes just the same here) and the adjuster seizing up. I found a way to make standard wheel cylinders more water resistant and I extend the adjuster all the way and coat all the threads with heavy marine grease. Doing this I have gotten good life from the galvanized surge drum brakes.

You have owned trailer disc brakes?

The disc brake caliper cylinder is no where even close to having the problems drum brake cylinders do. In addition, super easy to rinse disc brake calipers after you dunk them. have owned Kodiak disc brakes for at least 15 years now an never an issue with salt water like I did with drum brakes.

 

[Lou C]

Many people here In salt water them and unless they are flushed yes that’s what happens!

 

[Lou C]

I think that many trailers have cheaper disc systems than Kodiak so those are the ones that don’t seem to last that long. The disc rotors if not stainless seem to rust pretty badly.

 

[Omineca]

Buy a bran new trailer for your boat, then sell your old one as "brakes need work". Yes, you'll lose some money, but I think you'll be surprised how little, and with no hassles at all you'll have a worry-free trailer, and with a warranty to boot. Whether it has surge, electric, drum or disc brakes will depend on what you wish to spend, but you will save yourself a shipload of headaches.

 

[Texasmark]

I had surge brakes on one trailer. Single axle, ample tongue weight...at least 500#, 18' fiberglass, tri hull, deep V, bowrider, lots of glass so weight made for a good ride on the water. Tow vehicle a 1972 Chevy stationwagon. Recalling, I think the tongue of the trailer was extended the length of the surge control system which was nice for launching but caused problems getting it into my garage....before the days of swing tongue popularity.

Situation, raining, asphalt road, speed around 35 MPH or so, slight curve in the road, had a sudden reason to hit the brakes, trailer started swinging out to the side of the existing path requiring me to let off the brakes and do a steering diversion instead due to the reason for the action.

Electric brakes which I had on farm and house trailers didn't have that kind of response, plus I could control the kickin point which I liked very much. Electric did require a control module (parts and installation costs) that weren't required with surge.

 

[Omineca]

Given 1. that you are towing a trailer anywhere near to the tow vehicle weight, 2. that road surface and/or tires lack sufficient friction and 3. that "a sudden reason" to brake hard occurs, then I would say that there are no trailer brakes in the world that will stop your combined rig from trying to turn into a helicopter.

I have towed all manner of trailers, with all kinds of brakes under all kinds of conditions, and the main "equipment" that I believe you need is the anticipation that something unexpected will occur in the next 20 seconds of your life, and to drive accordingly.

 

[Texasmark]

Given 1. that you are towing a trailer anywhere near to the tow vehicle weight, 2. that road surface and/or tires lack sufficient friction and 3. that "a sudden reason" to brake hard occurs, then I would say that there are no trailer brakes in the world that will stop your combined rig from trying to turn into a helicopter.

I have towed all manner of trailers, with all kinds of brakes under all kinds of conditions, and the main "equipment" that I believe you need is the anticipation that something unexpected will occur in the next 20 seconds of your life, and to drive accordingly.

Its a matter of physics. The electric brakes stop the trailer....they could stop the whole combination if adjusted too tight/kick in too soon or too much or the trailer could theoretically be totally disconnected from the tow vehicle and still stop. The surge braking system relies on the tow vehicle to stop it and it's this pressure with lateral forces acting on it (the trailer) make it vulnerable to be inclined to veer.